alden wrote:Hm, I think I have never seen more bespoke tailors starting mtm and rtw lines, many of them stylistically rather "offensive" in and around the Row as well as compromising quality.Saying they went the "rtw Route" in Naples because many suits they make are stylistically different seems somewhat unfair to me, to be honest.
CN
Yes there have been eruptions of fashion forward stuff on SR but the key houses have kept to their traditional cut. The RTW and MTM of Huntsman is still classic Huntsman style, for example.
I think the likes of Kiton, Attolini, Isaia, Borelli et al have had a more pervasive influence on Neapolitan bespoke than RJ, Boateng or Chester Barrie have had on SR. But that view comes from a few decades (since 1976) watching Naples tailoring evolve. It’s only very recently that we have seen coats and lapels like the one in the OP. The Cesare Attolini I knew near the cinema on Via dei Mille did not make coats like that one (until recently.) And, yes, the truth often seems unfair.
Cheers
Michael
I see, obviously there was a change...you started watching more than 10years before I was born, hahaa.
However, I don't see where a high gorge (higher than the end of the tie know as you say, though I have very different knots) throws off balance that makes a coat totally unwearable.
Also, I carefully reread the part about the shape of the lapels and wonder where is the significant difference that makes the OP stylistically inacceptable and this example, I do only see that the OP are just wider at the top, but not differently shaped at the botton, considering that part: "(...) lapels that are very narrow at the button and blossom to be very wide" :
http://forthediscerningfew.files.wordpr ... fflin1.jpg
Again the OP:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E0unwil6Amg/T ... 00/105.JPG
P.S.
I think there are much more important things that these stylistic issues that one may see this or that way... old, unattractive and stuffy from one perspective, perfectly elegant and classic from the other, unnecessarily modern and unbalanced and bland or perfectly elegant and contemporary, as long as it doesnt come with puff-sleeves, I like them all, if well made
.
However, uneven darts, mediocre and sketchy finished breast pockets and primitive construction/finish overall etc. and last but not least the problem with pattern drafting many tailors have...like I mentioned in the other thread.
How many tailors out there can draft a pattern to make a properly fitting suit for the first time with only one or even no fittings ?
How many make a fitting to give the client the opportunity to check on stylistic choices and how many
need several to get the fit right?
The answer is more than sad.