Cordovan shoes by Vass, Budapest

[davidhuh]

Model: „Alt Wien“
Material: Cordovan
Colour: Bordeaux
Last: 3636
Commissioned: Nov 17, 2009
Ready for collection: Dec 10, 2009
First collection: Feb 12, 2010
Back to workshop: Jan 21, 2011
Second collection: April 2011
Price: 175'000 HUF (Nov 2009, all paid in advance)

This was my first bespoke shoe commission. I went to visit Vass and a second shoemaker having done my reading on shoe making (Vass has published a wonderful little book on handmade shoes). Both were recommended to me by local friends, long term customers of both.

I collected my shoes from both manufacturers when I was back to Budapest three months later. At Vass, I was asked to try on the shoe before collection. Although I was wearing extra thin socks, I had the impression they were a bit small. Talking to the sales person, we blamed the time of the day (late afternoon, I had been up and running since 4 am).

Over the next few months, I tried wearing in these wonderful Cordovan shoes – wearing them 20 minutes first, then a full hour, then 2 hours with my thinnest socks. But no sign of relief. Finally, I came to the conclusion that they made a mistake and the shoes were simply too small. I got in touch with Vass, and agreed to visit the shop when I was back in town in January this year. Without much discussion, they took the shoes back and made new ones.

What you see on the picture is the new pair, delivered in April this year. Because it is not really Cordovan weather these days, I have not been wearing them more than two or three times – but now, they fit perfectly.

In summary, the handcraft is almost perfect, value for money is excellent. What I am less happy with is customer service, or with what Vass advertises and sells as a „bespoke shoe“. Measuring my feet was done in 5 minutes, and the shoe was constructed without further fittings. The rest you already know. So we should call this an MTO service perhaps, but not bespoke.

What did I learn from the experience? First and most important: Do not commission bespoke of any kind in a city where you don’t live or where you not visit on regular basis. This limits my future bespoke shopping for shoes and clothing to London, Milan and Rome – which is not too bad after all.

Perhaps you are interested to hear about the second shoe maker. He was also highly recommended to me, and my obviously not very savvy friends said their quality was equal. His product was a lot cheaper, so I ordered 2 Budapester, one in brown, the second in black. Contrary to Vass, he is not making a last for each of his clients. Price 74'000 HUF – which is a bargain. They fit perfectly. However, the leather is not the best choice (you can select the leather to be used in his shop, but the selection is limited), and also the making leaves some room for desire. Reasonable quality at very reasonable price – but then, at this level I prefer a nice English shoe RTW from Church, Tricker or Edward Green. After some wearing in, they fit as well, and leather & handcraft are much better.

[tteplitzmd]

Last year I had Vass make another Norweiger, the first one having been ordered on a visit to Budapest some years ago. That needed some changes which were done, and the results good/not great. I would say it was MTO since they don't stock anything in my size (small, narrow foot). On the newer order I specified brown scotch grain. I asked that it be delivered to my hotel in Wiesbaden. That cut costs and was convenient. The shoe was there upon my arrival in Wiesbaden, but in black scotch grain! Eva acknowledged the error. I wanted to return them, but there are a lot of shipping/customs expenses, and so I still have the shoes. Customer service obviously not great. I wouldn't order again from them. I don't think they really want the business and would rather sell their ready made, in stock models.

[davidhuh]

Customer service obviously not great. (...) I don't think they really want the business and would rather sell their ready made, in stock models.

This was exactly my impression. They wanted to sell me what they had on stock, and it took me time to explain that I wanted a different service, because my feet are not easy and cry for bespoke. I found it rather strange...

cheers, david