Unlined suits in heavier cloth

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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ICM
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Sun Jan 02, 2011 6:02 pm

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with completely unlined suit of 13 oz-plus weight cloth? Has such a suit ever even been made? Well, I'm sure it has, but I certainly haven't heard of any such cases.

(Any unlined thornproof tweed stories would be a great plus.) :mrgreen:
workwear dandy
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Mon Feb 07, 2011 4:39 pm

ICM wrote:(Any unlined thornproof tweed stories would be a great plus.)
this is an unlined action-back odd jacket (the sleeves are lined).
the fabric is 18oz Isle of Mull 'Silver twill/Russian twill' tweed woven on a 1958 Dobcross loom.
the cut is based on a 1931 Eton dinner jacket. a suit version is in the pipeline.

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the lack of lining has a purpose: it enables the action-back to function properly.
do you have a particular reason for wanting an unlined medium - heavyweight suit ?
Last edited by workwear dandy on Tue Feb 08, 2011 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
alden
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Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:19 pm

Hi Workwear Dandy

Welcome to the LL.

Some great ideas you have shown, so let's see them on you! We are less interested in clothes here as we are in Style, so show us plenty and show us often.

As regards the OP:

Yes, heavy (well made) fabrics work great unlined. Heavy (well made) fabrics work great period but especially well with a softer make, and if you do not need the lining to help slide the coat on, you can do without it, as long as your tailor agrees and can spend the extra time and effort to make it that way for you.

Cheers

Michael
Troedyrhiw
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Fri Feb 25, 2011 8:27 am

Workwear Dandy has shown how, for certain applications, an unlined jacket works well in terms of both looks and function. I have ordered a sample of the Silver Twill/Russian Twill from Ardalanish Weavers but they only seemed to have it in 12oz weight which will not hang as well as a 18oz.
i look forward to seeing 'photos of Workwear Dandy's suit when it is finished. Would he be prepared to name his tailor?
Regards,
Troed-y-Rhiw
workwear dandy
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Wed Apr 06, 2011 2:01 pm

ICM wrote:Has such a suit ever even been made? Well, I'm sure it has, but I certainly haven't heard of any such cases.:mrgreen:
this suit version of the above is made from original 1930s-40s 18 oz tweed. it looks too new at the moment and needs to be a bit lived-in and rumpled. the trousers are based on an early 20s style (think Harold Lloyd) to be worn off the shoe. yes, the shoulder seams are angled backward.

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Simon A

Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:09 am

Very charismatic ensemble; can we see it on you?

What a wonderful tweed also! Pinstripe tweeds are not so common these days, let alone triple-pin stripes...

The LL brown tweed suiting with crimson stripe is one of the few striped tweeds around, and looks great. Would there be any prospect of re-making this grey herringbone tweed with triple pinstripe in a 21-22 oz suiting in Autumn 2011 to go with it? It would look great both in town and the country.
Sammyo77
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Mon May 09, 2011 2:11 pm

I love this. Who made it, may I ask?
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