Linen suit - "reasonably priced tailor"

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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jrtjon
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Fri Feb 18, 2011 10:42 am

My wife (who works for a grand French fabric company) has given me a great piece of linen. I would like to get it made up into a suit. However, I don't want to go down the Savile Row route as I really don't think I could afford it (considering I live in Ireland, I'd probably need a bailout to pay for it!). Also as much as it is wonderful to have the full hand-made "thing", I really want something that fits and makes me look good rather than hand stitched fly buttons etc(!!). Also I know from past experience that the grand tailors turn their noses up at people bringing in their own fabric. My first ever bespoke suit was from Johns & Pegg and I had my own fabric - they were rather pompous! I still used them as they were my father's tailor - but to be quite honest I wish most of them in general would "get over themselves"!!
I have used George in Cleveland St before, and he makes a nice suit, but I think he maybe too stiff and rigid for what I want!
Has anyone got any suggestions where I could try?
SMCK
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Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:35 am

George has had some good reviews here.
In these recessionary times I suspect that even the grandest of tailors would be glad of your custom.
I am sure that here are some tailors left in Ireland who might do what you want?
carl browne
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Sat Feb 19, 2011 3:51 pm

jrtjon:

I live in Los Angeles, land of the pretentious waiter. If you walk into an LA restaurant, and your waiter smirks, or patronizes, or seems a bit grand, you can bet he's an out-of-work actor or a college student working his way through school.

If he appears passionate about preparing, serving, and eating food, is dedicated to making certain that you have an enjoyable experience, and can be informative without drawing attention to your comparative ignorance, then he's a pro.

Could this be true of tailors as well?
cdo
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Sat Feb 19, 2011 4:51 pm

Without knowing what you consider reasonably priced but I would suggest Edwin deBoise (aka Steed) and his soft style. He has no problem using customer supplied cloths. Indeed, you can easily see a number of his garments made with LL cloths on various forums. He is a genuinely decent chap, listens to his customers and is very approachable. And his garments are none too shabby either!

I have yet to come across an attitude problem or been slighted by any of SR firms. If you are serious about getting garments made up, they will respond accordingly. They exist to attire their clients appropriately not to become best friends with them.

- C
Costi
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Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:55 pm

carl browne wrote:I live in Los Angeles, land of the pretentious waiter. If you walk into an LA restaurant, and your waiter smirks, or patronizes, or seems a bit grand, you can bet he's an out-of-work actor or a college student working his way through school.

If he appears passionate about preparing, serving, and eating food, is dedicated to making certain that you have an enjoyable experience, and can be informative without drawing attention to your comparative ignorance, then he's a pro.
Hehe! Excellent :lol:
I think the former is a double impostor since he can't even act as a waiter convincingly, while the latter is the real artist of the two.
tteplitzmd

Mon Feb 21, 2011 7:37 pm

jrtjon wrote:My wife (who works for a grand French fabric company) has given me a great piece of linen. I would like to get it made up into a suit. However, I don't want to go down the Savile Row route as I really don't think I could afford it (considering I live in Ireland, I'd probably need a bailout to pay for it!). Also as much as it is wonderful to have the full hand-made "thing", I really want something that fits and makes me look good rather than hand stitched fly buttons etc(!!). Also I know from past experience that the grand tailors turn their noses up at people bringing in their own fabric. My first ever bespoke suit was from Johns & Pegg and I had my own fabric - they were rather pompous! I still used them as they were my father's tailor - but to be quite honest I wish most of them in general would "get over themselves"!!
I have used George in Cleveland St before, and he makes a nice suit, but I think he maybe too stiff and rigid for what I want!
Has anyone got any suggestions where I could try?

I'm curious. Is your linen Irish, Italian, or Belgian? Any chance of a photo?
jrtjon
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Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:43 pm

Thank you for the replies!
1) I had thought of a tailor in Ireland, however they seem to be few and far between! I think they are more into made to measure. I may have found one who sounds promising so I'll let everyone know. The problem is that he is based miles from me and it is probably easier (and cheaper) to travel to London!
2) I have to say that when I mentioned that Savile Row tailors need to "get over themselves" I didn't mean all of them! However there are some who are perhaps a tiny bit big for their boots!! That being said there are some who are total opposites - like any profession! Perhaps I have an inferiority complex. I believe that a tailor should be like a Jeeves type valet - politely firm! Perhaps this should be a new post - how a tailor should behave!?
3) The point about actors is actually rather accurate (I tried to be one many years ago - I was far too full of myself to wait on tables - sadly I was also a useless actor!).
4) I know of Steed - however they maybe too much for me?
5) The terrible thing about the linen fabric is that I haven't a clue! As I said my wife works for a French fabric house so I will just have to ask her when the linen arrives. I will also take a photo!
I shall keep you all informed of my progress and if I ever get there - post photos, although having read many of the posts here I may get a bit paranoid if people start to criticise! There goes my inferiority complex again!
Of course I would still love some recommendations.
By the way has anyone heard of/ used Lloyd Miller or Brian Richies in Clapham?
cinema
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Tue Feb 22, 2011 4:49 pm

I had my final fitting at Graham Browne this morning all going well there and I think they should be worth considering.
jrtjon
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Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:04 pm

Has anyone got any thoughts, feedback etc on the new Anthony Sinclair in Savile Row. The Conduit Cut is certainly a look I like!
cathach
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Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:52 pm

Hello Jrtjon,

I have a list of tailors in Ireland that I have compiled if you're interested, if you are based in Dublin most of them have a visiting day where they go up to town to measure. Also I've contacted them all myself to see if they will do cut, make and trim and I can let you know the ones thta are interested. All of them work out that bit less than SR or the London tailors.
jrtjon
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Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:39 am

Hi Cathach
I would be really interested in that list of Irish tailors. I'm not actually in Dublin, I'm in Waterford but travel is a bit easier nowdays! I only know of 2 real bespoke tailors - David Young in Galway (who seems to have a good reputation) and another (can't remember his name) who specializes in Hunt coats in Co Dublin. All the rest who call themselves tailors are really retail outlets eg Louis Copland
jrtjon
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Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:46 am

I have been meaning to post the details of the linen my wife gave me!
It's made by Boussac from their Garden collection and it has a weight of 280g It has a lovely texture! You can look it up on www.pierrefrey.com They also do a rather nice grey flannel - is 440g too heavy? As you can imagine this is a really cost effective way to get some nice fabrics!! I am still searching for some fun linings - can anyone tell me what weight I should look for and material to avoid?
Costi
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Tue Apr 12, 2011 11:11 am

jrtjon wrote:They also do a rather nice grey flannel - is 440g too heavy?
Too heavy for a flimsy suit! :wink:

I like this one best: http://www.pierrefrey.com/uk/produit/ti ... garden.htm
cathach
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Tue Apr 12, 2011 10:48 pm

jrtjon wrote:I have been meaning to post the details of the linen my wife gave me!
It's made by Boussac from their Garden collection and it has a weight of 280g It has a lovely texture! You can look it up on http://www.pierrefrey.com They also do a rather nice grey flannel - is 440g too heavy? As you can imagine this is a really cost effective way to get some nice fabrics!! I am still searching for some fun linings - can anyone tell me what weight I should look for and material to avoid?
Jon, I sent you that list of tailors there by PM. By the way if you listen to myself or other guys on the forum you'll find that 440g is almost too light for a suiting fabric!
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