Huntsman, A & S or Both???

[jlazarow]

So I received my first piece of bespoke suiting from Huntsman in early December, which was a tweed suit in their classic house tweed. I have also been wearing A & S for the past several years and they have made a number of my business suits. What I find most interesting is that they are completely different garments in look and feel but both are extremely comfortable. I love both houses and I find that their clothes really work for different settings. I am wondering if that is odd or if I am one of many who love both looks and feels-- not to mention I think part of it is I really love bespoke clothing and the art that goes into its creation.

[carl browne]

I think part of it is I really love bespoke clothing and the art that goes into its creation.

That makes you an ideal customer for both houses.

This is a great question, and hope it starts a very long thread.

I suspect that if the cutters of these two houses were to discuss the trade, you wouldn't get much agreement about aesthetics or construction, yet their very different approaches produce some of the best clothes made anywhere. It must be great fun to commission clothes from both firms. It must also give you great insight as to what's best for you.

C

[andreyb]

I love both houses and I find that their clothes really work for different settings.

jlazarow, it would be very interesting to hear your -- first-hand -- opinions on what settings work for clothes made by these two companies.

Generally one hears comments that A&S clothes, being soft, work fine for informal settings, while Huntsman, being structured, for more formal ones.

On the other hand, many people swear by A&S double-breasted suits (definitely not informal in this day and age!), while Huntsman is famous for their tweeds (hardly formal garments).

Andrey

[Concordia]

RSS (check also his listings on Styleforum) has been a satistfied client of both.

At some level, it would be nice to find the perfect single tailor who projects the silhouette you want at all times, of course with fine workmanship and fair pricing. Then you could get by with a handful of suits per season and a small number of odd jackets, knowing that everyone would always recognize you in the way you might wish.

But sometimes life is more complicated than that. With tailors and with clients.

[jlazarow]

Its interesting that you brought up RSS. I remember when I was first getting into tailored clothing reading his posts and wishing for the day that I too could wear a bespoke suit. Fast forward a few years...

I love both styles and interestingly I find that I can wear both quite a bit. I love wearing the A & S double breasted suit. While a DB is considered dressy in todays world the suit's comfort along with with its style is perfect for most work days. I find that it dresses up really nicely for an important meeting but when worn with a different shirt or tie they look great for a typical work day. I probably wear my A & S breanish tweed every weekend in the fall, winter, and early spring (I live in Chicago so I get a lot of wear out of it) and I love it. I have had it two years and its getting better with age. The Huntsman tweed is just different. its a bit dressier and perfect for a night out on the weekend or during the week when I want either a different look or something that appears casual because of the fabric but is perfectly tailored. The other Huntsman I have are also single breasted one button and great for dressy casual events-- where I do not need to wear a tie. Or when I want to be impeccably dressed, such as a charity fundraiser or art museum event. I just cannot bring myself to wear my DB's without ties (every so often I will throw on a jumper and leave it unbuttoned). The other tailor I have used and love is Logsdail and these garments are completely different than either of the English makers I use. Len made my favorite coat of all time, although its not as wearable as a winter coat in Chicago as it is in NYC (I used to live in NYC). The suits he made are wonderful too but just different and also good for different events I go to. I guess I have a problem... I love tailored clothes and I can justify having a piece or two from several makers. Actually that is part of the fun. I figure I have 25 years to build a wardrobe so I can do it slowly and enjoy the different garments.

[jlazarow]

RSS (check also his listings on Styleforum) has been a satistfied client of both.

At some level, it would be nice to find the perfect single tailor who projects the silhouette you want at all times, of course with fine workmanship and fair pricing. Then you could get by with a handful of suits per season and a small number of odd jackets, knowing that everyone would always recognize you in the way you might wish.

But sometimes life is more complicated than that. With tailors and with clients.

I agree. That would be a great aim! But its not always possible.

[Yale Cameron]

Jlazarow, I too have happily used logsdail and have him making some stuff up right now. I have not used any of the English tailors, so was just wondering how you found logsdail's work "different" from the others.

[jlazarow]

Jlazarow, I too have happily used logsdail and have him making some stuff up right now. I have not used any of the English tailors, so was just wondering how you found logsdail's work "different" from the others.

This is a difficult question to answer, especially since I consider Len a friend and a very talented tailor. He makes one of, if not, the best coats out there. It is hard to describe the differences but I am going to try. A & S is very soft, almost casual feeling. yes there is extra fabric for draping, but not as much as one would be lead to believe. Huntsman is the complete opposite in that its a stiffer chest, but not as stiff as I would have expected. But another way it has a definitive shape while the A & S does not hold a shape. It feels as comfortable as the A & S but it creates a very distinctive shape when I wear it. The A & S also has shaping, but its a different style. Len is a good blend between the two. He creates some of the best wasted looking coats, but does it without the heft of some of the English tailors. He is also meticulous about fit and making sure that you get exactly what you want. With the English firms you are commissioning a work in their house style. But with Len you can create whatever you want. The coat is as light as A & S but has the shaping and clean front of a meticulously tailored S.R. suit. While many people would wonder how I could love all three tailors and consider them friends but also wear their clothes, I appreciate their skills and talents. More importantly, each of their looks has a role in my life. But Len is super talented, a wonderful guy, and an outstanding tailor.

[alden]

The Italian and Japanese firms (be it clothing such as suits, clothing such as shirts and hosiery, shoes and so on) commission their work in their house style just as much as the English firms (non Savile Row just as much as Savile Row) commission their work in their house style.

With very few exceptions, that is the case.

Michael

[alden]

Huntsman, A&S or Both?

Hmm, sometimes life presents us with almost insurmountable challenges...

While many people would wonder how I could love all three tailors and consider them friends but also wear their clothes, I appreciate their skills and talents. More importantly, each of their looks has a role in my life.

Well done. I like what I hear.

Now if you want to add yet another layer of goodness, make a trip to see Frank Shattuck. If I were NY based, I would try to use the great local craftsmen (like Frank and Len) as well as the visiting tailors.

Cheers

Michael

[Merc]

although i believe frank is a 4 1/2 hour drive from new york city (more for slower drivers!)