quality of this good year welted shoe?

[mrkirk]

Hi,

I have just received some Barkers shoes which were purchased in london, and brought back to New Zealand.
A friend and I bought idential pairs (Barkers Arnold, different sizes). Upon inspecting both pairs, the goodyear welting on my pair seems to be to close to the edge of the sole. Where one pair has about 4mm clearance (distance between the stiching and the soles edge, namely the point at the tip (toe) of shoe), my pair has only about 1mm at the smallest point of clearance.

I have attached a photo and would appreciate any advice as to whether I should be concerned about this. I am worried that with normal wear this section will wear away quickly from small scrapes and knocks when the toe of the shoe catches the ground.

Should I get in contact with Barkers or the retailer? Should I get a rubber half sole put on? Or just not worry about it at all?

Thanks for any help

[Somerset]

Well, in my opinion it isn't brilliant workmanship and you're right, it might wear away, however I wouldn't worry too much. You have to remember that at the front of the sole of a pair of welted shoes you will wear down the leather to the stitching quite quickly anyway at which point the shoes will still be held together by the stitching elsewhere, and the glue between the welt and the sole. In your case, the leather may wear a little faster, but I would doubt that it will be very noticeable, and when you have them resoled you can have the stitching done a little more carefully.

[Merc]

put metal toe guards

and btw soles that have the stitching channelled and then re-covered with leather are definitely superior in terms of wear.

[mrkirk]

would having these recovered with a rubber sole before use be a good idea?

[A.Hacking]

MrKirk, if you are in New Zealand I assume that you will not be sending them back to the factory for repairs. If you were, then attaching a rubber sole would certainly result in Barkers refusing to resole the shoes on the original lasts. In any event it would affect the balance of the shoe when walking.

I have been buying Barkers shoes for work for many years without any quality problems with original manufacture. The repair service has given problems though.They are considered to be in the second rank of pure RTW shoemakers but I find their 69 last very comfortable. Despite this their Handgrade double-monkstrap is priced higher than the C&J Lowndes.

[mrkirk]

no, I dont intend on sending them back to barkers for repair, however, if this initial quality is not acceptable then i would consider sending them back now in new condition to be repaired or replaced...

[Pagoda]

I would advise against sticking a rubber sole on top of the leather one; it will allow moisture to accumulate and linger between rubber and leather, rotting away the lovely leather sole you wish to protect.
Just find yourself a good cobbler and go for a resole, if needed.
(As Merc already said, metal toe guards are a good way to reduce wear on that part of the shoe.)

[Merc]

it's poor quality control, period.

id return them, but putting a metal toe guard ought to work