Photos of recently commissioned Rubinacci suit

[BP45]

Gentlemen, I haven't posted much in the last few years (though I read constantly), and I thought it was time to become more active.

I thought I would start with some photos of a recent commission from Rubinacci. If this post with photos works, I will later post photos of a suit I recently had made at Caraceni, Rome. I wanted to try both establishments to see what style worked best for me.

The suit is 3-piece. The fabric is a light weight (probably too light, in retrospect) glen plaid with a gold check overtone (is that the correct way to describe it?). Here is a photo showing the fabric and the lining:



Here is a photograph of the pants:



A side-view:



Rear view:



With the vest:



The suit jacket with vest, front view:



The suit with vest, side view:



And the back view:



The shoulder, as expected, is much narrower than the Caraceni shoulder (which I will post later). Do you think the Rubinacci shoulder should be slightly extended? I have seen photos of Luca Rubinacci's suits, and they seem to have a slightly wider shoulder. My suit was made in Naples. I understand Luca's most recent ones are made in Milan. In any event, I welcome all comments.

[BP45]

While I was at it I thought I would post pictures of a sports jacket I had made at the same time as the suit.

The front view:



The photo is a bad one, and the color is washed out. This is another (albeit bad) photo of the front view:



And a photo of the side view (the color here is more accurate):



The fabric is lightweight cashmere with a herringbone pattern.

Taking pictures is instructive. I notice that the left shoulder has a "fold" that the right shoulder does not have. Something to get fixed on the next visit to Rubinacci?

[BP45]

Although perhaps I should start a different post for this, for comparison, below are pictures of my Caraceni suit:

[Merc]

my only comment is about jetted pockets
i think they exaggerate the vertical line as their are no flaps to break it up a
and thus you might consider a slightly shorter length on that jacket as it looks a tad too long

[BP45]

An interesting observation about the Caraceni. Rubinacci does, though, actually make a shorter jacket--to the edge of the thumb instead of the curl of the fingers. I think the shorter jacket looks better on the height-deprived (of which I am one).

[whnay.]

Looks like you had a good time - your in good hands with both of those tailoring houses.

I would say that the garment from Rubinacci, especially the pants, fit you very well. I would have probably used a heavier fabric for the 3-piece but it looks like the suit can be worn comfortably without the vest. Curious, did you source the lining or pick from stock on hand in Naples? I also like the sportcoat and think it fits you very well - I've had some grumbles with Mariano over sleeve length but your coat seems to fall where it should.


BTW - I've always preferred Caraceni DBs over SBs - I'm not a huge fan of the SB lapel and shoulder treatment.

[BP45]

Looks like you had a good time - your in good hands with both of those tailoring houses.

I would say that the garment from Rubinacci, especially the pants, fit you very well. I would have probably used a heavier fabric for the 3-piece but it looks like the suit can be worn comfortably without the vest. Curious, did you source the lining or pick from stock on hand in Naples? I also like the sportcoat and think it fits you very well - I've had some grumbles with Mariano over sleeve length but your coat seems to fall where it should.


BTW - I've always preferred Caraceni DBs over SBs - I'm not a huge fan of the SB lapel and shoulder treatment.

I chose the lining from a tie swatch-book in their London store. Chiara Rubinacci helped me pick it out--meaning she said "You should do this" and I said "yes". I visited their Naples store for fittings (which is a story in itself; the Rubinacci's were terrific hosts). I did the vest on a whim. To tell the truth, I have yet to wear the vest with the suit.

When you say that you've had grumbles with Mariano over the sleeve length, do you mean that he wanted them longer or shorter than you did?

[SMCK]

I must say BP45 it is wonderful to me to be able to see and compare these two suits by makers I have read so much about here, so thank you for that.
In my opinion the SB blazer is pretty near perfect and suits you. I do however agree that having seen Caraceni DB blazers looking so elegant on some members here I would be sorely tempted to go in that direction.
In my humble opinion whilst I do agree with Whnay, I feel that the Caraceni suit looks better on you in that it looks a little roomier whilst still being a good fit. The Rubinacci looks a little tight across the shoulders of the jacket and across the butt of the pants, ( If I can use that non tailoring phrase). The front of the Rubinacci pants look to me perfect, whilst I find the front of the Caraceni a little loose. To my eye the chest of the Rubinacci looks a little puckered and loose although that may be as you say because the cloth is light. The Caraceni shoulders are a little wider, I suppose it depends on which look you feel flatters you most.
I would like to know which suit you find the more comfortable? Also which do you feel is the better made?
Thank you again BP45 for sharing these; I have much enjoyed this first thing on a Sunday morning

[DFR]

These both look excellent and it is good to see the products of these little illustrated tailor/cutters. The lack off pocket flaps on the Rubinacci makes the coat look a little forbidding but I would not query your preference obviously. The two suits are also inconsistent in back pockets in the trousers - is that your not being specific or has one erred?

The lining in the Rubinacci looks interesting - could you post a photo of the full inside to show its effect please? It also shows the tailor's attention to detail and is useful.

A fine pair of suits congratulations.

[whnay.]

Looks like you had a good time - your in good hands with both of those tailoring houses.

I would say that the garment from Rubinacci, especially the pants, fit you very well. I would have probably used a heavier fabric for the 3-piece but it looks like the suit can be worn comfortably without the vest. Curious, did you source the lining or pick from stock on hand in Naples? I also like the sportcoat and think it fits you very well - I've had some grumbles with Mariano over sleeve length but your coat seems to fall where it should.


BTW - I've always preferred Caraceni DBs over SBs - I'm not a huge fan of the SB lapel and shoulder treatment.

I chose the lining from a tie swatch-book in their London store. Chiara Rubinacci helped me pick it out--meaning she said "You should do this" and I said "yes". I visited their Naples store for fittings (which is a story in itself; the Rubinacci's were terrific hosts). I did the vest on a whim. To tell the truth, I have yet to wear the vest with the suit.

When you say that you've had grumbles with Mariano over the sleeve length, do you mean that he wanted them longer or shorter than you did?

Meaning he likes a slightly longer sleeve. I'm talking in centimeters but it can make a difference.

Just curious - did you steam the suit or let it hang overnight before putting it on for photos or did you pull it out of the box in a fit of excitement and take pictures? I only ask because it would explain some of the pulling and other abnormalities in the drape of the fabric. One of the things I'd recommend is having your wife or a friend tug down on the front quarters (as forcefully as you feel comfortable) of your LH garments - doing so will help quicken the "break-in" process and ensure the coat rest peacefully on your neck and shoulders at any stance.

BTW I think we'd all love to hear about your visit to Napoli. It's an completely different world, isn't?

[mmkn2]

next visit to Rubinacci?

Nice to see your experience, thank you for sharing.

Your posture must be different at home and in front of the camera than at fittings, as seen by the collar of the sportcoat rising off your neck and the rippling tricep area.

- M

[whnay.]

next visit to Rubinacci?

Nice to see your experience, thank you for sharing.

Your posture must be different at home and in front of the camera than at fittings, as seen by the collar of the sportcoat rising off your neck and the rippling tricep area.

- M

See my post...

"One of the things I'd recommend is having your wife or a friend tug down on the front quarters (as forcefully as you feel comfortable) of your LH garments - doing so will help quicken the "break-in" process and ensure the coat rest peacefully on your neck and shoulders at any stance."

[Gruto]

Thank you for posting the photos. We seldom have the opportunity to compare the work of two venerable Italian tailors made more or less at same time for the same person. Some thoughts:

Both firm construct a forceful shoulder line and chest but by very different means. I guess many are charmed by the dramatic Rubinacci drape. Personally, I think it can become a little bullish, more Daniel Craig than Sean Connery. On the other hand, the Rubinacci cut has a lot of character. The Caraceni cut is more restricted, and compared to the Rubinacci, it looks a tad old fashioned. Still, I like it. It's a grown-up cut. It's doesn't stir a fuss. It presents an elegant man.

[mmkn2]

"One of the things I'd recommend is having your wife or a friend tug down on the front quarters (as forcefully as you feel comfortable) of your LH garments - doing so will help quicken the "break-in" process and ensure the coat rest peacefully on your neck and shoulders at any stance."

My oversight.

One of the things my maker does after I put on a jacket is grab the jacket by the shoulders, lift it up so the jacket is off my shoulders, and then let it settle down into my neck . . . feels like him throwing an armor onto my shoulders.

I have a certain routine I go through after putting on a garment to assure that it settles out [like your tugging on the jacket's quarters], similar to those baseball players and their wind up ticks.

- M

[Gruto]

This "issue" could easily be the funny side of internet photos. Are we watching bad balance, or has BP45 not put the coat on properly? I think the latter is the case.