Rubinacci question

[couch]

I was also thinking that both pattern decisions and coatmaking/tailoring ought to figure in the definition. I suppose it's possible for the degree of shaping with the iron (and possibly with hidden construction--tapes and such--that I don't see) that has been done on my bespoke jackets to be done in MTM or RTW, but I haven't seen it. And I gather an experienced cutter will make decisions, such as whether to use a side body, where to place underarm cuts or waist darts and at what angles, whether to employ a one-piece back, and whether and where to use under-lapel darts for a prominent chest rather than ironwork alone, according to the customer's figuration and the type of jacket--is it usual for a MTM pattern to be manipulated to that degree? These are questions of strategy rather than simply of measurements. I defer to our members who are tailors, but it seems to me that bespoke means that a cutter/tailor team can choose the best strategies to fit an individual from a range that extends to the limit of their knowledge and experience, whereas a MTM maker must work within a constrained set of strategies and manipulate those as well as his skill and those constraints permit. If the customer's figuration and stylistic requests fit within the range of those constraints, the fit may be quite good, but it's not optimized from the beginning of the process--and probably the fit could be even better if it were.

[Rodrigo Malizia]

Not sure if anybody has had recent experience with the London shop, but if the latest starting prices I was quoted are correct, they have lept far ahead of the whole of SR..

[alden]

Not sure if anybody has had recent experience with the London shop, but if the latest starting prices I was quoted are correct, they have lept far ahead of the whole of SR..

R has some serious overhead issues but I think his pricing is a sign of things to come. The supply of quality bespoke craftsmen is dwindling as demand for their work is increasing steadily.

Michael

[Rodrigo Malizia]

I agree with that. In addition, he has always striken me as an astute businessman as well as a style reference. He probably has a good sense that the market will accept the pricing to the extent that his gross revenue remain largely the same. Unfortunately makes my decision between A&S and Rubinacci for my first foray into true bespoke a very simple one.

Best
Rodrigo

[alden]

Rodrigo

It has a bit to do as well with the situation of the GBP. I think the SR houses are a good buy, at present, compared to Euro based luxury brands like Rubinacci.

Michael