Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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jlazarow
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Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:56 pm

Hi,

I am planning on buying a new "fall" hat from Lock this summer/early fall. I have a small collection of hats (trilby and fedoras), but I am ready to branch out into something new. I am deciding between a Homburg or a Coke hat. I like this style because it harks back to an earlier era, as well as being iconically British. Not to mention, I think when worn right, they look really great! I am interested in what people on the forum think about wearability... which style can I wear around NYC/Chicago --assuming that they both look equally good on me...

Thanks for the advice I am sure I will receive.
couch
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Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:10 am

I would naturally and in theory have said that the Homburg survives more commonly in the States, and I know it gets some steampunk play. In my recent visits to New York, however, no Homburgs caught my notice (perhaps because I would not have thought them remarkable). Late this winter I did, however, see a tall and well-favored gent striding up Fifth in the high fifties in what appeared to be a full-blown Guards coat and a Coke. The effect was very striking on him--the proportions suited the shape of his head and face, so he didn't look in the least costumish. More iconic, as you say. Indeed I wondered idly whether he might actually *be* a visiting guards officer in mufti; couldn't see whether he was carrying an umbrella. Make of this what you will. No doubt some of our resident New York members will have more nuanced intelligence.

Hard to beat a proper Homburg in the right setting:

Image
storeynicholas

Thu Jul 15, 2010 2:56 am

He's about to press the abandoned Kay into marriage via a the back of a big black limo, in a leafy lane; non?
NJS
Digby Snaffles
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Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:23 pm

Unfortunately I can't imagine a Guards, or cavalry, officer, wearing 'mufti' (though this was used to refer to civilian attire in general and not just the bowler hat and lounge suit worn to parades) outside of Black Sunday or the like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Dvwiq1g ... re=related

Personally I prefer the Coke to the Homburg. However there is that line between what looks good and what looks like costume. Of course one may not care for others opinions which may be well for wearing such a hat will attract attention.

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Mark Seitelman
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Thu Jul 15, 2010 1:22 pm

jlazarow wrote: * * * I am interested in what people on the forum think about wearability... which style can I wear around NYC/Chicago --assuming that they both look equally good on me... * * *

If you have the desire, I would recommend the homburg over the bowler.

I had the desire to branch-out to a homburg. More on that later.

Neither hat is worn in New York. Sightings of a homburg are very, very rare. Bowler sightings are even rarer.

If you are concerned about "what people think", then the homburg will generate less notice. Most people cannot tell the difference between it and a snap-brim fedora. Only a few will recognize it as a formal hat. Most people will just think of you as a "guy in an old fashioned hat."

As for the bowler, you are entering the realm of serious eccentricity.

I had a Lock homburg. I bought it a Jay Kos, and I should have bought his private label homburg which was more flattering. My Lock hat never looked right for me, and I gave it away.

I would recommend going to a good hat store and trying-on different homburgs from different makers if that is possible. There is Jay Kos, Worth & Worth, JJ Hat Center, and an excellent hat store in Williamsburg, Brooklyn (I cannot remember the name).

Good luck.
jlazarow
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Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:34 pm

Thanks for all the great advice I am receiving! I like hats... and I wear my fedora or my tweed caps in the fall... I am looking for something different and a bit special. While I love the look of the bowler, I am a bit concerned that its too much of a costume look and I will buy it and then never wear it, which while I love clothes, is not worth it to me-- If I have it and cannot wear it because of a costume effect, its not worth it. The Homburg does not have the iconic look, but sometimes I think its more wearable than a Coke/Bowler.

I am not sure what I want or what is best--there is no best just more right for a time/place.

Please forgive my ramblings, but I am just trying to figure out what is best for me right now. I am leaning towards the Homburg, its special, its unique, yet it retains a classic look that is wearable in the real world...
Costi
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Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:47 pm

jlazarow wrote:I am not sure what I want or what is best--there is no best just more right for a time/place.

Please forgive my ramblings, but I am just trying to figure out what is best for me right now. I am leaning towards the Homburg, its special, its unique, yet it retains a classic look that is wearable in the real world...
Not sure what you want?! But you couldn't have put it better into words! That's what you want, so go for it :)
Mark Seitelman
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Thu Jul 15, 2010 4:03 pm

jlazarow wrote: * * * I am looking for something different and a bit special. While I love the look of the bowler, I am a bit concerned that its too much of a costume look and I will buy it and then never wear it, which while I love clothes, is not worth it to me-- If I have it and cannot wear it because of a costume effect, its not worth it. The Homburg does not have the iconic look, but sometimes I think its more wearable than a Coke/Bowler.

* * *
Please forgive my ramblings, but I am just trying to figure out what is best for me right now. I am leaning towards the Homburg, its special, its unique, yet it retains a classic look that is wearable in the real world...
Go for the homburg. You'll never wear the Coke.

Example of a ribbing that you'll get from wearing a bowler:

1980. I was working for a Brooklyn judge, and we were getting into his car to drive home. The car was parked on a main street next to the courthouse. About 50 feet away another judge is getting into his Buick. He is wearing a bowler. My judge yells at the top of his lungs: "Hey, Joe, where did you get that hat?!" Apparently, the judge had just visited London and bought a bowler to be part of the heritage and tradition of the English courts, the barristers, the City, Savile Row, etc. After that day the judge was never seen in it again.

Good luck.
storeynicholas

Thu Jul 15, 2010 4:45 pm

If you went for this style:

http://thenakedapegetsdressed.blogspot. ... e-hat.html

your observers would be so astonished, that you woulod always get away with it; merely hearing the susuration of admiration as you glide on your way!!
NJS
couch
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Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:54 pm

storeynicholas wrote:He's about to press the abandoned Kay into marriage via a the back of a big black limo, in a leafy lane; non?
NJS
Mais oui. It's been a while since I've seen the films, but I think I remember that he also later appears in a black Homburg, which I thought less flattering (though sober)--even on someone with the perfect coloring to wear it.
storeynicholas

Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:11 am

I've also just noticed that Mikey has his homburg on back to front.
NJS
Cufflink79
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Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:26 pm

Just the other day I was thinking of this very topic. (Maybe I was sending out a psychic signal :lol: .)

To me both hats look great, if were to buy both of them I'd have a homburg in navy and a bowler in black.

As for the right setting you might get a little more use out of the bowler due its year round use. Whereas, a homburg is generally reserved for more cooler fall/winter days.

As for cities to wear both hats in, the homburg fits in anywhere, but to me when I think of San Francisco the bowler comes to mind. After all the bowler was the hat that won the west. (Or so I read somewhere.)

Good colors for homburgs are usually black, brown, grey, & navy.

For bowlers, the colors look best as black, brown, & grey.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
jlazarow
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Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:49 pm

Costi wrote:
jlazarow wrote:I am not sure what I want or what is best--there is no best just more right for a time/place.

Please forgive my ramblings, but I am just trying to figure out what is best for me right now. I am leaning towards the Homburg, its special, its unique, yet it retains a classic look that is wearable in the real world...
Not sure what you want?! But you couldn't have put it better into words! That's what you want, so go for it :)

Thanks! I know, I really know what I want to do! While I think the bowler is cool, I am afraid I will NEVER wear it. I think a Homburg it is.

But there is something really fun about the Bowler!
Costi
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Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:07 pm

jlazarow wrote: I think a Homburg it is.

But there is something really fun about the Bowler!
Hehe :) Yes, there is, but do you want to look like fun? Because, if you do, nothing will get the message across quicker and better. You must either wear it with a morgue that says "do I know you that you stare at me like that?", or with a good dose of humour in your eyes and in your attitude. You cannot simply WEAR it without appearing to be doing anything out of the ordinary, as you very well might with a Homburg. In fact I have tried on a few, too, but the ones that I liked in terms of shape and size were rather poor quality felt so I passed. But if I found one I liked, I'd have no second thought about wearing it, without fear it might call any more attention than a Fedora, which I put on often anyway and forget I'm wearing (thus probably mistaking the occasional intent look for a silent compliment).
couch
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Sat Jul 17, 2010 2:01 am

storeynicholas wrote:I've also just noticed that Mikey has his homburg on back to front.
NJS
Because the bow is on his right, or because it looks too blunt? If the former, it may just be that the image has been flipped. I found this version as well, which may be the original . . . :

Image
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