First Fitting

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

rrosals
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Wed May 12, 2010 3:36 pm

I am having my first fitting with a new tailor next week and he said that he will construct this garment first from a cheaper fabric. Is this called a muslin? Does anyone have experience using this method and have they found it advantageous.
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culverwood
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Wed May 12, 2010 3:41 pm

Common in dressmaking and very effective.
dopey
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Wed May 12, 2010 4:52 pm

rrosals wrote:I am having my first fitting with a new tailor next week and he said that he will construct this garment first from a cheaper fabric. Is this called a muslin? Does anyone have experience using this method and have they found it advantageous.
This is an old-fashioned but exemplary technique. It is also expensive for the tailor, especially if they use outworkers whom they have to pay to assemble the fitting, and is not common practice.

My first suit from Davies was done this way - they called it a 'toile' fitting, by the way - but only because the cloth I ordered was not available and they didn't want to lose time waiting for it. It is not their usual practice.
rrosals
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Wed May 12, 2010 6:06 pm

Thank you for the response.
Last edited by rrosals on Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Greger

Thu May 13, 2010 5:23 am

Sounds like a good tailor. Hope it all turns out well. And hope we see it.
old henry
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Wed May 19, 2010 12:57 pm

Dear Sir , I use a muslin fitting for every new customer or if I draft a new pattern for an old customer. This will eliminate a lot of guess work on your fine English cloth. The tailors estimations on balance , length , shoulder height , and most important to me - the front overlap are answered before the scissor cuts. Your tailor is old school. FShattuck
zeitgeist
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Wed May 19, 2010 1:26 pm

This thread has helped me appreciate my tailor just that little bit more. Thank you, gentlemen.
rrosals
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Wed May 19, 2010 3:00 pm

Mr. Shattuck, your comment makes me even more excited for my fitting tomorrow. Considering that I am planning on using a length of the Minnis Rangoon I have been saving, I am happy to have this extra step. My tailor said he prides himself on using the same techniques he was taught many decades ago. I will try to take some pictures of the experience.
alden
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Wed May 19, 2010 7:09 pm

Rrosals

Most of the great traditional tailors I have known did a muslin fitting, and all the of the shirtmakers did so as well. The muslin fitting is a trial run, and it gives the tailor information about fitting that will be useful when scissors start to work on the cloth.

Now many tailors will say that they can cut the cloth and then alter as needed at the first fitting, but there are times when the muslin data would have made the alteration unnecessary and in some cases avoided unforeseen difficulties.

We tend these days to be in such a hurry, always rushing, saving steps and saving time. I really appreciate people who understand pace, who understand that a few minutes of care or attention or focus might save hours and guarantee affection.

Cheers

Michael Alden
Merc
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Wed May 19, 2010 11:58 pm

i had a shirt maker throw out the first shirt he made, despite that it was out of moderately pricey fabric.

and then he made it again, and threw it out again but saved the collar and cuffs that time

third time he got it right!

he might have saved money with a muslin fitting, but he happened to have a large bolt of this fabric which he had bought a while back, so although it was
a genuine loss, it wasnt money out of his current accounts.
old henry
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Thu May 20, 2010 1:07 am

Your tailor is of the same school as my teachers. Get the pattern down .. Also --Rangoon ??? Damn Good for you . I loved that cloth . What a shame that this brick of a cloth is gone. It was not slick enoulgh for today , I guess .. Frank
old henry
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Sun May 23, 2010 8:55 pm

Now many tailors will say that they can cut the cloth and then alter as needed at the first fitting, but there are times when the muslin data would have made the alteration unnecessary and in some cases avoided unforeseen difficulties.


Yes , Michael , and it is such a pleasure to cut a first suit with 90% of the questions answered. Sometimes I have made two muslins ..Frank
Michael Alden[/quote]
rrosals
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Wed Jun 23, 2010 2:01 pm

The first fitting with muslin and second fitting with actual cloth are complete. I am very happy with the changes from the first to the second and I feel we will have everything perfected for the final fitting. I have learned much from this experience and I will be happy to show more details once the suit is done.

Image

Image
old henry
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Wed Jun 23, 2010 11:16 pm

I can see by these photos that this Fine Gentleman -- This Tailor of yours -- Is a Treasure. A true Old World Treasure. The trim, fitted chest is fine workmanship. The sleeves are set in perfectly. The armholes are high and just snug . He is , most certainly ,Top Notch. I am sure that you treat him with all of the respect that he deserves. The respect of a King. You can never truly know what he gives - of himself - to you. Frank Shattuck..
rrosals
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Thu Jun 24, 2010 6:34 pm

I will certainly pass the compliments along. His passion is incredible and it is great to see the joy (his and my) that comes out of the garment he created. I will take some more detailed shots of the workmanship once the suit is completed.
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