Hand-stitching on shirts

[J.S. Groot]

Gents,

Today I picked up my first bespoke shirt (and bespoke item) ever. It was made for me by Edouard Courtot in Paris, and I've documented the process with photos and words on my blog http://www.thedukeandme.blogspot.com

The shirt itself is impeccable; to my eye at least. The fit is great and Courtot and his seamstresses has managed to translate my French ramblings regarding my favoured silhouette into exactly what I wanted. Also, the craftsmanship seems solid. All sewing is done by machine, though, and this has made me wonder. I have a romantic affection for hand-sewing, but as far as I'm concerned it doesn't really make a difference in terms of how the shirt feels.

My experience is limited, however, so I'd really like some inputs on the matter?

[Costi]

Excellent choice of collar and very nicely executed, too, with thin and well-shaped points. It looks pleasantly substantial and with good tie space.
The machine stitching looks first class to me. You won't miss the handstitching - as you write, it does very little (if anything at all) for comfort in shirts from my experience - be it around the armholes, on the collarband or on the collar leaves. Unlike on coats, it is pure decoration on shirts. The only place where, again in my experience, it does matter is in buttonholes: the handsewn ones last more and endure repeated launderings a lot better. They don't fray, they don't come undone, they don't lose shape - on the contrary, the thread shrinks and they get tighter and age nicely. If the buttonhole machine they use does a good job, you shouldn't have many problems, but it would be interesting to ask if (and for how much extra) they can handsew the buttonholes - it does take some time and an expert hand. The MOP looks good but perhaps four-hole buttons would be even better.
It would be a good idea to add a picture with you wearing the shirt - after all, that's the most important thing: how it fits and what it looks like ON YOU.
Nice shirt and report. You're on the right track under your ducal auspices

[J.S. Groot]

The MOP looks good but perhaps four-hole buttons would be even better.

This is why I think this place is the best to go with one's dressing enquiries. With so many other things to consider, I would never have gotten around to consider the number of holes on my buttons. Would you explain why four holes would be better in your opinion?

It would be a good idea to add a picture with you wearing the shirt - after all, that's the most important thing: how it fits and what it looks like ON YOU.

I know. Unfortunately, there were none around that could photograph me. With any luck, I'll get fit-photos up tomorrow.

Thanks for the answer by the way. I will ask Monsieur Courtot next time I visit him.

[Costi]

Would you explain why four holes would be better in your opinion?

Men's shirts (and coats, overcoats etc. for that matter) usually take four-hole buttons, while two-hole buttons are more common in women's clothes. Some horn buttons for odd jackets may be sized for menswear and have two holes, but look on any of your RTW shirts and I'm pretty sure you'll find four-hole buttons.
On a practical level, a four-hole button can be handsewn more firmly, with a cross-stich, and then shanked. You could check to see if yours are handsewn. It sounds like overdetail, but these things have to do with the shirt's durability - machine-sewn buttons come off very easily; if the end of the thread comes loose, you don't even have to pull it, it will practically unstitch itself in seconds.
Nevertheless, the most important parts of the shirt - the collar and cuffs - look very good to my eye. Looking forward to seeing the pictures with your shirt on!

[J.S. Groot]

I apologise for the lateness but here are a couple of photos:





(I am not familiar with taking photos of myself in this manner, so please excuse me for the quality)

[J.S. Groot]

For what it's worth I visited Courtot today for a little chat. Upon walking in, he immediately remarked that I wore my shirt (the one he'd made) without collar stays. Not a mistake I will be making again. He asked if I were content with the shirt and I could only say bien sur. I did complain that with such a nice shirt, I started to really notice the bad fit of my trousers (which can also be seen in the photo above) and that I would now have to commission bespoke trousers. He laughed and said that I was now on a slippery slope with coats on the horizon, followed by shoes, knitwear and whatnot (MTM sunglasses at Maison Bonnet, maybe?). He really is a very nice and service minded man; I advise you to visit him if you happen to be in Paris.

Anyway, I enquired about buttonholes, and he informed me that they do both: Machine-sewn as standard and hand-sewn at an extra charge of €40. Pas mal, in my eyes, but I really have nothing to compare with. What do you gentlemen pay for hand-sewn button holes?

I also enquired about four-holed buttons. It seemed that Courtot viewed two-holed as more appropriate for dress shirts, whereas he had a few sports/casual shirts on display with four-holed buttons. I could easily have four-holed buttons on any shirt if I wished.

I ordered three new shirts, by the way. A classic Bengal striped with a rounded collar and French cuffs, a pale violet (lavender-ish) Oxford with button-down collar and barrel cuffs (2 buttons of course) and finally a night shirt in pure ecru silks with pale blue trimmings. All of then with four-holed buttons and hand-sewn holes.

[Ed]

Beautiful shirt.
Does your left shoulder have more slope?
Seems to be some extra folds there that might be due to the extra slope.
Might just be the way you are standing.

[J.S. Groot]

I wondered about those extra folds too. They didn't seem to be present at my fittings. Either I'm standing differently in this photo or I stood differently at my fittings. I'll have to see the next time I wear the shirt.

[shredder]

2-hole horn buttons are standard equipment on jackets and overcoats made by many SR / London firms. I ask specifically for the fruity option.