The Patterned Shirt

[uppercase]

The patterned shirt: a bridge too far for me. Much too difficult to master.

I would love to but don't know how.

Do any of you practice this dark art??

[mmkn2]

I try.

Mr. Boyer and the Duke do the classic version of this well.

My favorite dandy representative of this dark art is Mr. Doonan.



- M

[Kas]

I try as well-and I'm color blind to boot. Morley Safer does a great job with the patterned shirt, imho.

[oldog/oldtrix]

[alden]

Bravo!

Michael

[uppercase]

Oldog: Nice!

What's your thought process for putting it all together in the mornings?

[Cufflink79]

Oldog:

Wonderful job putting these great ptterns together.

On the buttom two photos are you using a collar pin for a tie pin?

The Boutonniere is very nice touch as well.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[dopey]

Not counting OCBDs, I would say that 75% of my shirts are patterned, though I go in mostly for micro-checks, end on ends (not really patterned, but close) and , to a lesser degree, hairline stripes. Bolder patterns, as shown in this thread, are fine to, but I use them less during the week because I prefer my business shirts to be interesting and invisible at the same time.

[uppercase]

When I was thinking 'patterned' I was thinking more along the lines of the Flusser big patterns, not the little checks, the minnis and the micros. Something a little jarring....

[dopey]

When I was thinking 'patterned' I was thinking more along the lines of the Flusser big patterns, not the little checks, the minnis and the micros. Something a little jarring....

I think the Boyer photos show this done right - the bold checks are perfect for sportcoats. Especially, as he uses them, when the sportcoat pattern is itself somewhat staid. The shirt pattern not only adds its own interest, but it makes the texture of the sportcoat come alive, with the texture rising up, as it were, to meet the shirt.

[mafoofan]

Hmm, frankly I'm not convinced by the Boyer example and I can't really tell much from the black-and-white photo of the Duke. In the color photo of Boyer, there are just too many saturated colors in proximity to each other. It's a bit jarring to look at. The last photo posted by oldog/oldtrix works the best to my eyes, but that's because the pattern is subdued and the color is pale.

My patterned shirts tend to be white and blue, with either blue checks or blue stripes on a white background. Blue bengal stripes are as bold as I get pattern-wise. I think they're very easy to work with: bold, but simple, and with enough white to sufficiently quiet the shirt for use in a wide variety of outfits.

[alden]

The last photo posted by oldog/oldtrix works the best to my eyes

The last oldog example works well, yes, but I admit to liking that color herringbone coat. And the choice of either boutonniere or pocket square (but not both) makes the image pleasing, clean and harmonious.

[Jordan Marc]

The technique of getting pattern-on-pattern to work well, or coordinate gracefully, is to understand the complement of each color involved in your attire, the textures and finishes of the fabrics involved and, most importantly, the ability to change the scale of the patterns so they co-mingle with one another.
Other than a color wheel from an art supply store, which makes understanding complements easy, all you really need to master the knack of pattern-on-pattern are your eyes, a good fabric store with fixtures
piled high with bolts of beautiful suitings, coatings, shirtings and silks, and the willingness to juxtapose
one pattern against another. If the mix is jarring, try another combination, and keep going until it comes
together and you say: "That works!"

By the way, fabric stores usually have crappy flourescent lighting which is the worst illumination by which to judge the colors of any patterned fabric. Ask a clerk to accompany you outside with bolts in hand, preferably in broad daylight so you can get an accurate sense of color. If you're mixing patterns at home, replace any incandescent lighting with LEDs.

Prior to experimenting with pattern-on-pattern, it's a good idea to have a sense of your own coloring.
Not everything looks good on everybody. For example, if you're from the north country with a pale complexion and blonde hair, there are colors you can wear that people from the Mediterrean areas
and South America cannot because they don't harmonize with their skin tones. Want another example or two? Think of the muted palette worn in northern climes compared to the rich, vibrant colors worn in India
and Asia. And if you're in your middle or later years, dressing like a jackass is no excuse at all for not understanding the color and scale of the patterns in your wardrobe.

JMB

[oldog/oldtrix]

[alden]

Oldog

I like it. Keep those great herringbones coming....

Cheers

Michael