Summer / unlined suits?

[The_Sartorialist]

Simon,

I had actually lifted that picture off Sator's review of the Cape Breeze book on another forum (http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... wtopic=564). From my reading of that thread (no pun intended ), the weave is fairly open (though maybe not quite as open as a typical fresco), so I imagine it would make for a great summer fabric. Perhaps Sator might be able to share greater knowledge about it, since he seems to be quite familiar with it.

I'm scouting around for fancier materials (got my inspiration from some of Paul Smith's buggy lining designs) to use as contrast piping for the internal buggy-lining, so I'm looking forward to the finished product. Will certainly share more in due course.

[matthew farnes]

Mr. Alden

Compliments an insightful and detailed forum, your appreciation of the skills that go into making a bespoke garment is to be commended.

Relating to unlined summer jackets, I’ve always found them enjoyable to make and comfortable to wear. Please look at my latest post on my website, talking on this matter.

http://thesavilerowartisan.com/?p=326

Regards,
Matthew

[The_Sartorialist]

Relating to unlined summer jackets, I’ve always found them enjoyable to make and comfortable to wear. Please look at my latest post on my website, talking on this matter.

http://thesavilerowartisan.com/?p=326

Matthew, the internal construction design is certainly interesting. Would you care to share how you manage to give the front of the coat shape and support without using any chest canvas?

[matthew farnes]

To answer your question, there's a couple of factors which help give the coat shape.

* There is no chest canvas in the jacket. Instead I have used a piece of body canvas, this gives you a soft feel. Something I learnt from a carracini coat, a customer brought in for alterations when I was working for Huntsman.

*I've put a dart into the canvas which aids to give shape to the fronts of the coat. Please take a look at a recent post on my website on the coat canvas:

http://thesavilerowartisan.com/?p=322

*Lastly, in my experiance in making these garments, there are certain cloths that will lend themselves to being made in this way. The cloth in this jacket is a tightly woven linen, which works well for the overall effect.

[The_Sartorialist]

A follow-up question on suitable sleeve linings for summer / fresco suits:

Given the open-weave nature of summer / fresco fabrics, I have been led to believe that it is highly possible for some parts of the sleeve lining to fray over time (and due to a combination of static build up), strands of lining may end up peeking out through the fabric itself. It is thus advisable to pick a sleeve lining that closely matches the colour of the fabric, and I suppose in my case, if I were having a dark suit made up, it wouldn't be advisable to pick a striped sleeve lining with a white base.

Will the knowledgeable folks out there let me know if there is any truth to the above, and given that static build-up is likely to occur (if my knowledge of Physics is even sound!) only in colder countries (which is not the proposed climate in which such suit will be worn in anyway), will I be acting foolishly if I insist on a white striped sleeve lining for my jacket?

[marcelo]

A follow-up question on suitable sleeve linings for summer / fresco suits:

Given the open-weave nature of summer / fresco fabrics...

The name suggests a religious painting rather than a kind of cloth, but I wonder if "tela vaticana" is really a usual name to refer to fresco fabrics in Italia. I have came across it a couple of times, but am not sure if it is a widespread expression.

[alden]

The name suggests a religious painting rather than a kind of cloth, but I wonder if "tela vaticana" is really a usual name to refer to fresco fabrics in Italia. I have came across it a couple of times, but am not sure if it is a widespread expression.

Yes, Brisa/Fresco like cloth is called tela vaticana in Italy.

Michael

[Costi]

Sartorialist, I have never experienced what you describe. Pick a good Bemberg for a lining and I don't think you shouldn't have fraying problems and strands of fiber showing through the fabric. However, on a dark blue fresco jacket I would not have a white sleeve lining, as it will more than likely show through.

[The_Sartorialist]

Sartorialist, I have never experienced what you describe. Pick a good Bemberg for a lining and I don't think you shouldn't have fraying problems and strands of fiber showing through the fabric. However, on a dark blue fresco jacket I would not have a white sleeve lining, as it will more than likely show through.

Thanks, Costi. Always a pleasure to hear from you.

Quite right indeed, my jacket is going to be in a dark blue, so I'll most likely opt for a darker lining instead of the white I initially had in mind.

[carl browne]

My dark gray and navy frescos are 14/15 oz. The heaviest available. I was advised to line the coat to avoid a "see through" effect with light colored shirts. I wonder if this is necessary. The coats wear cool, but could perhaps be even cooler. The trousers exchange so much air that I sometimes wonder if I'm not going around unzipped (I'm not). The suits are perfect three season wear in Southern California, where I live, but I imagine they would be pretty miserable in cold weather.

[couch]

Whether it's necessary is a matter of preference, but in intense sunlight a dark-colored Brisa (I have the navy chalkstripe) will definitely show the difference between a lined or backed section (pockets, canvas, etc.) and an unlined or backed section, against a white shirt/background. Flash photography or video lights will create the same effect. I intend to have mine made up with a matching ermazine lining. The difference doesn't seem noticeable on the light gray, so Costi's buggy-lined example would be a good model.

[marcelo]

The name suggests a religious painting rather than a kind of cloth, but I wonder if "tela vaticana" is really a usual name to refer to fresco fabrics in Italia. I have came across it a couple of times, but am not sure if it is a widespread expression.

Yes, Brisa/Fresco like cloth is called tela vaticana in Italy.

Michael

Thanks!

[matthew farnes]

Dear All,

I hope you find this of interest, I've just posted a new article on unlined jackets, There are some interesting style details for your viewing.

Should you wish to see some more images of the garment. Please take a look at the gallery.

http://thesavilerowartisan.com/?p=398

Regards,
Matthew

[marcelo]

Dear All,

I hope you find this of interest, I've just posted a new article on unlined jackets, There are some interesting style details for your viewing.

Should you wish to see some more images of the garment. Please take a look at the gallery.

http://thesavilerowartisan.com/?p=398

Regards,
Matthew

Thanks for this Matthew Farnes. Can you post the link for the first part of the article?
M.

[The_Sartorialist]

Hi all,

In keeping with the topic, I have included some quick snaps of my recent commission from Graham Browne: