Getting Triple Check Made. Ideas?

[dopey]

I posted this in the cloth club forum, but it is probably more useful here:
I am ready to have the blue-grey LL triple check made up. You have until tomorrow to give me suggestions, which I would welcome, on how, e.g., SB 2 or 3 piece, button 1, 2 or 3 (or 3/2), notch or peak or DB. Right now, I am trying to delay forming an opinion until I hear tailor's choice, but I am open to comment from the gallery, especially since you have seen the various finished examples posted.







I know there are better picture of Will's and Andrew Yew's suits somewhere but I can't find them.
Also, pictures of any other versions would be appreciated.

[mafoofan]

My instinct would be single-breasted. I think double-breasted might overdo an already bold and distinctive pattern. I guess it depends on how much of a dandy you want to be.

Alternatively, you could gift the cloth to me and leave me with burden of choosing.

[alden]

Three piece, SB, notch lapel, true three button front, flapped pockets (could be slanted.) Waistcoat plain, no lapel. High rise, richly pleated trousers, 5 cm turn ups.

[Des Esseintes]

Three piece, SB, notch lapel, true three button front, flapped pockets (could be slanted.) Waistcoat plain, no lapel. High rise, richly pleated trousers, 5 cm turn ups.

Exactly my thoughts, though I would say it does not necessarily have to be a true three button front but would also work in other configurations. As an alternative, a signle breasted in a Huntsman-esque one button cut might also be worth considering, but in that case probably better without waistcoat. I would not get slanted pockets, in line with earlier advice that the suit might benefit from a rather plain cut as the cloth is quite eye-catching already and fancy details might put you at risk of making the impression of a fop rather than a dandy (in the positive, Mantonian sense).

dE

[dopey]

Thank you, all. Other suggestions are still welcome.

@Des Esseintes:
Why do you think a waistcoat falls by the wayside in the case of a "a Huntsman-esque one button cut?"
I would think the buttoning point would be the same as on a 2-button or 3 roll 2 coat so that shouldn't be the issue. Or is it a matter of style?

[ay329]

Since you have enough cloth for a 3 piece suit...do it

The picture you re-posted of me looks horrible and I took the suit back for a further fitting since I like to wear my suits for a bit until I have the final fitting. Perhaps I'll take another pic (especially after I loose further weight)

A few folks, including myself made it up in a DB vest. I would suggest you try it too

The one button Huntsman sounds good...and a vest would nicely complement it

I suggest a Peak lapel as a notch lapel is too dull for a cloth of this caliber (besides this is a lounge suit, not your serious business suit)

[dopey]

@ay329: Thank you for your thoughts. I am not sure I am a double-breasted vest kind of guy, but I will remain open-minded for the moment. Perhaps you and Alden, with his austere, lapel-less vest, will have to duke it out.

I have certainly not ruled out peak lapels either, but I see this as a more casual non-business suit, rather than as a "night on the town" non-business suit.


. . . . still thinking it over.

[ay329]

Then perhaps a simple single breasted, non lapel vest would be the right mix. I have 1.5 meters left and might opt for another SB vest as mentioned

The Huntsman single button jacket blends in well with the above vest.

Since the follow up grey with maroon triple overcheck is up for subscription, I look forward to seeing how yours comes out for any more satorial influence

[Des Esseintes]

@Des Esseintes:
Why do you think a waistcoat falls by the wayside in the case of a "a Huntsman-esque one button cut?"
I would think the buttoning point would be the same as on a 2-button or 3 roll 2 coat so that shouldn't be the issue. Or is it a matter of style?

Dopey

I don't think there are any hard facts to support my advice against a waistcoat with the one button suit - it is just a matter of personal taste.
What I like somehow in the Huntsman one button is the air of minimalism - very simple, straight lines, even the buttons reduced to the bare minimum. That's how I perceive this style, and I guess it makes sense that a waistcoat would inevitably destroy that perception.
Now, if you look at one of the old illustrations in one of the above posts, and replace the two button coat over the waistcoat with a one button one, would it make a considerable difference, and for the worse? I think not, it just wouldn't be my choice.

Let us know what you decided to go for in the end. It is sure a beautiful design and I am very confident it can be turned into a handsome suit, whatever style you go for.

dE

[mafoofan]

I agree with D.E.

Adding a vest to a one-button suit seems conceptually discordant to me. Moreover, it's hard for me to imagine how doing a three-piece wouldn't be doing too much of a good thing, what with the distinctiveness of the cloth.

If you're going to go casual, why not do 3-roll-2 and patch pockets with double-stitching? You could wear it as an odd jacket that way.

[Concordia]

I agree with D.E.

...it's hard for me to imagine how doing a three-piece wouldn't be doing too much of a good thing, what with the distinctiveness of the cloth.

More than likely, although the original litho sports a 3-pc. Of course, the wearer was notably thin and the color was somewhat greyer than the current edition's medium blue.

[mafoofan]

More than likely, although the original litho sports a 3-pc. Of course, the wearer was notably thin and the color was somewhat greyer than the current edition's medium blue.

I grant that the bigger challenges would be combining a one-button jacket with a vest and making a three-piece suit feel casual.

[dopey]

The answer is----
Three piece suit:
Single breasted one button coat, peak lapel, flapped pockets (tailor said slant might look nice, but question was deferred and left undecided, which is fine with me), side vents, four sleeve buttons;
lapelled waistcoat (cut in one piece), two flapped lower pockets, no upper pockets on outside, pen pocket on inside; possibility of post-boy style, which looks nice with flapped pockets on lapels, was rejected as too rustic a detail; and
brace top trousers, single deep pleat, with turnups.

Update: Waistcoat spec's were changed to standard four-pocket front, no lapels (and no inside pocket); I am working on getting over my aversion to lapel-less waistcoats and this seemed like a good place to try.

[alden]

The answer is----
Three piece suit:
Single breasted one button coat, peak lapel, flapped pockets (tailor said slant might look nice, but question was deferred and left undecided, which is fine with me), side vents, four sleeve buttons;
lapelled waistcoat (cut in one piece), two flapped lower pockets, no upper pockets on outside, pen pocket on inside; possibility of post-boy style, which looks nice with flapped pockets on lapels, was rejected as too rustic a detail; and
brace top trousers, single deep pleat, with turnups.

Great choice. I hope we will see pictures some day.

(Since you are going peak lapel, my advice would be to stick with straight flaps on the pockets.)

Cheers

Michael

[dopey]

The answer is----
Three piece suit:
Single breasted one button coat, peak lapel, flapped pockets (tailor said slant might look nice, but question was deferred and left undecided, which is fine with me), side vents, four sleeve buttons;
lapelled waistcoat (cut in one piece), two flapped lower pockets, no upper pockets on outside, pen pocket on inside; possibility of post-boy style, which looks nice with flapped pockets on lapels, was rejected as too rustic a detail; and
brace top trousers, single deep pleat, with turnups.

Great choice. I hope we will see pictures some day.

(Since you are going peak lapel, my advice would be to stick with straight flaps on the pockets.)

Cheers

Michael

That was my instinct, and I almost returned to say so. Instead, I decided I might enjoy being surprised, as I was pretty close to indifferent, and kept walking. But that isn't how it turned out. Deferral of the question was interpreted as "deferred and forgotten" rather than "surprise me" so I received a follow-up call. Straight it is.

[And I appreciate your treating the choice of lapels on the waistcoat as spilt milk. -- can be deleted, Ed.]