Huntsman bespoke shirts

[Scot]

Firstly, Sean definitley makes for Huntsman.

Secondly, Sean has made about ten shirts for me in the last year. He is a very nice guy and on the whole I have been fairly pleased with the results. However, there are still some fit issues which I would have thought might have been ironed out after ten attempts (forgive the pun). Perhaps, like FIS, I need to persist for a few more years or perhaps my expectations are unrealistic.

Thirdly, in the never ending search for perfection I decided to give Mr Whittaker at Dege a try. I went him to see him last week. He freely admits that he is very busy and patience is required. This is not really an issue for me as I am in no hurry. However, I was very impressed by his approach and the selection of fabrics is outstanding. He has begun my first trial shirt.

[Manself]

If you've already ordered some shirts from D&S then my warning might be too late, but in my experience the kind of 'patience' D&S's shirt customers are required to exhibit is saintly. So far I've commissioned six shirts over a couple of years, one has fallen apart (the blame, in fairness, is on the bamboo cloth not the make), four don't fit (despite all having been adjusted) and one disappeared before it got to me (although I was sent a bill - there's no word from D&S about how this situation is going to be resolved). That said, if the shirts can be made to fit I think they'll be great - they seem well made, and I like Robert Whittaker and Darren Tiernan very much.

On the other hand I have another iron in the fire, which is an order for some shirts from Frank Foster (who's name I've never read on this forum). So far I'm very impressed, but I haven't had a finished shirt yet. He is taking his time (it's been months already) but he did two baste fittings and is now finishing the first shirt. His other major selling point is that he has a big stock of vintage fabrics, some of which are close to 100 years old. And if that isn't enough he says he once made shirts for Cary Grant. I'll report back when I get the first shirt from Frank.

[shredder]

On the other hand I have another iron in the fire, which is an order for some shirts from Frank Foster (who's name I've never read on this forum). So far I'm very impressed, but I haven't had a finished shirt yet. He is taking his time (it's been months already) but he did two baste fittings and is now finishing the first shirt. His other major selling point is that he has a big stock of vintage fabrics, some of which are close to 100 years old. And if that isn't enough he says he once made shirts for Cary Grant. I'll report back when I get the first shirt from Frank.

Manself,
I'm very curious about Frank, but as you correctly pointed out, information in the ether about him is rather scarce. I would be very much interested in reading further reports.
cheers,
s

[andreyb]

On the other hand I have another iron in the fire, which is an order for some shirts from Frank Foster (who's name I've never read on this forum). So far I'm very impressed, but I haven't had a finished shirt yet. He is taking his time (it's been months already) but he did two baste fittings and is now finishing the first shirt. His other major selling point is that he has a big stock of vintage fabrics, some of which are close to 100 years old. And if that isn't enough he says he once made shirts for Cary Grant. I'll report back when I get the first shirt from Frank.

Manself, I, personally, would very much appreciate any information on Mr Foster's work.

He is a kind of enigma in otherwise well-known and well-discussed English bespoke shirtmaking world. A few heard on him, no one used his services...

Is it true that he requires 6 shirts as a minimum? Is is true that his shirts feature hand-made buttonholes?

And two fittings for shirts in England... Wow! That's rare. Probably unique.

Andrey

[Scot]

If you've already ordered some shirts from D&S then my warning might be too late, but in my experience the kind of 'patience' D&S's shirt customers are required to exhibit is saintly. So far I've commissioned six shirts over a couple of years, one has fallen apart (the blame, in fairness, is on the bamboo cloth not the make), four don't fit (despite all having been adjusted) and one disappeared before it got to me (although I was sent a bill - there's no word from D&S about how this situation is going to be resolved). That said, if the shirts can be made to fit I think they'll be great - they seem well made, and I like Robert Whittaker and Darren Tiernan very much.

On the other hand I have another iron in the fire, which is an order for some shirts from Frank Foster (who's name I've never read on this forum). So far I'm very impressed, but I haven't had a finished shirt yet. He is taking his time (it's been months already) but he did two baste fittings and is now finishing the first shirt. His other major selling point is that he has a big stock of vintage fabrics, some of which are close to 100 years old. And if that isn't enough he says he once made shirts for Cary Grant. I'll report back when I get the first shirt from Frank.

Thank you. I am not sure whether I feel ecouraged. I presume, however, that Whittaker is so busy because of happy returning customers. I have contemplated comissioning bespoke from Emma Willis, being fairly impressed with the quality of her RTW. I have heard too many bad things about T&A. They always seem exceedingly snooty and failed to answer an email I sent recently. Very interested to hear about Frank Foster though. Where does he work from?

[Manself]

Frank Foster:
There is a minimum order (five, if memory serves) and they have to be paid for in advance. He is pretty reasonable compared to other London shirtmakers (around £125 each, if memory serves). Things do move slowly - it's been four months since I placed my order and I don't have any finished shirts yet. Frank works out of a shabby basement on Pall Mall, full of wonderful cloth. It appears that supplying old shirtings for theatre and film is an important part of his business. I'll report back when I get a finished shirt.
His extremely modest website is here:
www.frankfostershirts.com

[Concordia]

Rumor has it that Dege is up to its eyeballs with a big order from the Middle East. A couple of SR houses have a lot of business there, and the whims of Sultans can keep them on tenterhooks.

I also agree that if you can get his full attention, Whittaker is really good. I've been shopping around elsewhere.

[dopey]

I used Dege and Whittaker for many years, maybe a dozen, and was very happy with them. Then, their quality began to slip and their attentiveness to filling orders in a reasonable time and getting things right fell by the wayside. I assume the two were related.
It took a lot of work to get my final order 90% completed.

Technically, I haven't given up on them as I have yet to start with another bespoke shirtmaker -- I have been enjoying RTW for OCBDs and have a backlog of unopened bespoke shirts to last me for a while -- but mentally, I have moved on to other prospects. It is a pity, because I really liked Mr. Whittaker and until the end approached, thought they turned out a great products.

[alebrady]

And if that isn't enough he says he once made shirts for Cary Grant.

funny, i am pretty sure Mr Lachter also made for Cary Grant? Given the latter's interest in clothing, perhaps it is not that surprising that numerous artisans can make the same claim.

[Bishop of Briggs]

It sounds as if Stephen has quite a good reputation and people on here that are using him are pleased.

Has anyone used Sean and what is the prevailing view on his work? Is he recommended?

Curiously, has anyone happened to try Richard Anderson's for bespoke shirts? I know that they also outsource to a shirtmaker but not sure who.

Thanks!

Probably Russell & Hodge who make for several firms on the Row. Rayner & Sturges is another possibility.

[alebrady]

It sounds as if Stephen has quite a good reputation and people on here that are using him are pleased.

Has anyone used Sean and what is the prevailing view on his work? Is he recommended?

Curiously, has anyone happened to try Richard Anderson's for bespoke shirts? I know that they also outsource to a shirtmaker but not sure who.

Thanks!

Probably Russell & Hodge who make for several firms on the Row. Rayner & Sturges is another possibility.

B.o.B.,

thanks - i think i actually heard that it is Russell & Hodge.

Does anyone have any thoughts on their quality and make? Who else on the Row do they happen to make for?

thanks

[Manself]

While we're throwing names into the hat I've got another (although it's MTM at best), which is Mercer & Sons in New England. The firm has a great website, which is very tempting, and their shirts sound very good (probably more for weekend wear than formal wear) but has anyone tried them? I'm a bit concerned about the baggy fit they boast of!

[Bishop of Briggs]

While we're throwing names into the hat I've got another (although it's MTM at best), which is Mercer & Sons in New England. The firm has a great website, which is very tempting, and their shirts sound very good (probably more for weekend wear than formal wear) but has anyone tried them? I'm a bit concerned about the baggy fit they boast of!

Bruce Boyer, the writer and a member here, is a Mercer customer. My American friends say that have a large baggy fit with a soft collar.

[NJS]

You have an owner/impressario who is not a tailor/cutter/stylist. The pricing is ridiculous. In effect, the owner bought the Norton name. Stephen Lachter and John Kent have their own business within that address. The demise and resurrection of Norton is well chronicled elsewhere. Be very careful if you just walk in.

Thank you for the response and for the warning. I have no intention of going, as I am satisfied with my current tailors (Meyer & Mortimer) and see no reason to change.

I am not certain it is so rare to have a proprietor who is not a "practical man", i.e., a trained cutter or tailor; of course, in most cases, the owner has grown up in the businesss, so to speak. The Messrs Cundey père & fils, at Poole's, who I believe are not cutters, would be an example. There are also quite a few instances of firms taking in sub-tenants, to help with the rent.

Norton, on their web site, mention John Kent as their cutter. Does it mean in effect that he wears two hats, that of Norton's cutter, and his own, independent, one? That sounds like a built-in conflict of interest. Would the pricing be different as well, whether one went to J.K. directly or through Norton?

Frog in Suit

John Kent used to be in Stratton Street and, even though he had (still has, as far as know), the Duke of Edinburgh's warrant, his prices were exceptional. There are certainly Savile Row tailors that sublet space and also some that do 'off-the-Row' suits - using the same expertise and tailors and finishers but you, generally, have to know them to get on the inside track. Amongst the best dressed men in the London legal world are, actually, the clerks, some of whose fathers are cutters on Savile Row .
NJS

[James Gieve]

Sean has made about ten shirts for me in the last year. However, there are still some fit issues

My first shirt from Sean needed some re-work but the fit issues were resolved, the six other shirts he made were perfect. With your first shirt, did you mention the fit issues to Sean.