Unlined Linen Coats

[Cornelius]

In the DB lapel width thread Mr Alden displays what I think is a splendid cream linen DB coat. I note from one of Mr Alden's replies that it is unlined. I too would like to commission an odd heavyweight linen coat and am intrigued by the idea of having it entirely unlined. I seem to recall seeing something in a Rubinacci magazine about some luminary and customer of theirs who would order entirely unlined linen suits and have them washed and pressed like shirts.

My first question, to Mr Alden, is whether the coat pictured is entirely unlined or whether there is some minimal lining and my second question, more generally, is whether such a coat would best be executed by an Italian tailor, on the assumption that Italian tailors are more experienced in building coats unlined. Whenever I have raised this with English tailors I am steered towards part lined coats. There seems to be a reluctance to undertake a commission for a fully unlined coat. I would welcome anyones thoughts or recommendations on the subject.

[JRLT]

I think you'll have a struggle to persuade any English tailor to produce an unlined coat. Of course they should be willing to meet all the customer's requests, but we know that tailors can be rather stubborn.

In fact I commissioned a linen suit yesterday. I didn't have very strong feelings on whether to go unlined, half-lined or lined, but the tailor took it as given that they would be making a lined coat. I can see that I am going to have to exert a bit of pressure at the fittings to get the more relaxed finish I think is suitable for a linen suit (off the top of my head perhaps an open shoulder seam, open quarters, minimal padding, etc.) rather than just the standard product which just happens to have been made up in linen rather than wool.

But I'd be interested to hear if you, or other members, do find a UK tailor who is more than willing to go unlined.

[alden]

My first question, to Mr Alden, is whether the coat pictured is entirely unlined or whether there is some minimal lining and my second question, more generally, is whether such a coat would best be executed by an Italian tailor, on the assumption that Italian tailors are more experienced in building coats unlined. Whenever I have raised this with English tailors I am steered towards part lined coats. There seems to be a reluctance to undertake a commission for a fully unlined coat.

The linen DB coat in question is “buggy lined” and you will find a photo of a light gray DB coat made this way on the site. (I don’t have it handy at the moment but it is there.)I have found that the buggy works very well for linen. I am going to pick up the new LL shirtjacket trial in linen tomorrow and that will be completely unlined. I will post pictures.

Tailors shy from doing anything but “lined” coats because it takes a lot more time and detail work to make an unlined coat. Any well trained and experienced tailor is capable of making buggy or unlined coats, if they want to. It’s a question of will and it’s a question of receiving more remuneration, an unlined coat should cost more.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[marcelo]

Welcome to the London Lounge, Cornelius. The following thread is about a member's unlined Brisa suit.

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =36&t=8012

[manton]

I am wearing a linen suit with an unlined coat today, that was made by a UK tailor. He had no problem doing it, nor did he object at all.

Mine is, as I suspect, rather typical for the style. That is, there is a traditional bemberg lining in the sleeves, and the facings are wider to protect the canvas, but there is no other other lining. The coat wears lighter and cooler, but does not quite drape as neatly as it would if there were a lining. Also, it wrinkles a bit worse than it otherwise would. Not that I really care.

[edhayes]

I like the half or 3/4 lined.

the issue is always how wrinkled to let them get-i like pretty wrinkled, when they are just a little wrinkled, it looks sloppy. if they're really wrinkled you look either chic, affected chic, or passed out for three days in the suit chic.

[marcelo]

Wrinkles are an inherent element in the aesthetics of linen suits. I have heard that earlier some gentlemen would go as far as to roll in bed in their linen suits, after having received them from the laundry, in order to make sure the suit does not look too tidy.

[carl browne]

My tailor tells me that without a lining, perspiration may dampen the back of the coat, causing it to get horribly creased when you sit.

Do you think this is true? I think the trick to staying cool has to do with airflow through the cloth, and wicking away of perspiration. I would think a lining would interfere with these things.

[Costi]

I think it is your poor tailor's coat's back that dampens to the thought of making you an unlined coat...

[carl browne]

Well said, sir.

[Cornelius]

Thank you. Your responses have been most helpful. My preference is also for the naturally relaxed and honest look that wrinkled linen affords. Although I think the 'buggy lining' option will be more realistic for me as I am based in London and it seems the most orthodox construction. I take the point about the extra skill and hours involved in fitting an entirely unlined coat.

However, I am still drawn by the idea of a purely unlined linen coat and were in not for my preference on this project being for a DB with the sort of generously bellied lapels one would usually like to see on such a coat, I would be drawn to commissioning something alike Mr Alden's linen shirt/jacket.