what shoe would you design?

[Tony]

Hi Rolf

We actually have a shoe that is exactly as you describe, Its called Newlyn, Its a new development, i will try to send a photo, the only problem is that the photo of this shoe is a PDF file and the photojournelsection will not except it.

Jan
The limiting factor is generally the lasting technics and the actual toe puff, where the toe puff on a bespoke shoe is 1/8" thick and carved down to the shape of the last chisel a ready made toe puff is made of board or celastic which is auniform thickness all through, this means that with the ready made toe puff you can not get the extreme definition of a chisel toe, there are also restrictions from the machinery.

The bramble boot was posted by mistake, it is part of my sample selection.

Keep yor eyes open Etutee we may have somthing along those lines for the LL spring/summer special.

We made many of those two toned shoes for RL they were a real pain but looked great, i think the style was Cardiff, Its always hard combining white suede with any antique calf as the antique needs such extreme finishing with creams and polishes.

To be honest most people do not see most of the styles we do, retailers will only stock what they believe will sell to there customers and they tend not to take too many chances on new styles, even our Burlington arcade shop is guilty of this and in my mind hold a relatively uninteresting range, the best way to see all the styles is to visit the factory, at the factory we have most of the styles that we make for Japan,USA and Europe, The Japanese tend to take most of the chances with the range that they hold and as a result that tend to have the most interesting styles.

Tony

[T4phage]

Dear Tony,
Thanks for your explaination regarding the difficulties in rendering a true chisel toe on a RTW/MTO shoe. Since the toepuff of a RTW shoe is readymade, could the people producing them make a more 'defined' chisel toepuff to use on the shoe?

As for the "Bramble Boot", it was most interesting. Something definitely worthy of it's appellation.

Regards,
Jan

[Tony]

Jan

Pre-moulded puffs can be used but they tend to be out of a cheaper material that are used in mass production, we use flat puffs and mould them round the last, its similar to bespoke but not so much fine tuning, we could look at investing money into it but i don't think that there would be enough demand for an extreme chisel toe in the EG range, although a lot of people like the chisel toe,in our market there is only a limited amount of people that will buy it, people actually had trouble excepting the 888 last saying that it looked too Italian, which i think is completly wrong, but the majority of our customers are still very conservative.

Tony

[Lookingtoimprove]

Even though I hate looking stupid...

What is a 'toepuff'?

Mark

[Tony]

Sorry Mark, A toe puff is the stiffening material that goes between the upper leather and the lining at the toe area of a shoe, it is primarily there to keep the shape of the toe, but in other footwear it can be used to protect the feet, i.e construction workers have steel toe puffs.

Tony

[Lookingtoimprove]

Ah, I see. Thank you, Tony.

Mark

[Etutee]

Some of the Purple Label shoes this season are chestnut antique (or perhaps Edwardian antique) and white suede half-brogue spectators. They're beautiful shoes. I didn't realize that Green ever did RTW shoes with white suede; but I saw them, so I know that they do, at least if Mr. Lauren twists their arms enough.

Dear Jcusey,
Thank you for your info. How can I view these shoes? Any website pictures anywhere? Plus, what is the best Ralph Lauren store to call & inquire about these? I frequently visit the big chicago store but they have never carried anything nice by EG in years.

Finally, kindly give me a rough idea what do they look like? For example if they are cardiff style...what portions are calf chestnut (Toe cap, counter etc) & which portions are white suede?

Thank you so much for your help.
Sincerely
etutee

[jcusey]

How can I view these shoes? Any website pictures anywhere? Plus, what is the best Ralph Lauren store to call & inquire about these? I frequently visit the big chicago store but they have never carried anything nice by EG in years.

Unfortunately, I don't see the shoes on the Polo website, and I don't know where else to look online. Call the Rhinelander Mansion store on Madison Avenue in NYC (212-606-2100). That's where I saw the shoes, and I don't think that many of the Ralph Lauren stores other than that one carry an extensive selection of the Edward Green Purple Label shoes. However, each Ralph Lauren store should have a binder containing rather poor quality pictures of the current season's shoes, and if you live near a store, that might be an option. Additionally, I've been told that they will ship an individual pair of shoes from NYC to another Ralph Lauren store for you to take a look at if you desire.

Finally, kindly give me a rough idea what do they look like? For example if they are cardiff style...what portions are calf chestnut (Toe cap, counter etc) & which portions are white suede?

Unfortunately, I can't remember the exact details. Does this mean that my membership in the Imelda Marcos Society is revoked? At the time, I thought that the pattern was Cardiff, but I could be mistaken about that -- I'm not sure if the shoes had a heel counter or not. In any event, the toe cap was certainly calfskin, and the vamp certainly was white suede. How the throat and quarters were configured, I honestly can't remember. I'm sorry that I can't be more exact.

[Tony]

Etutte,John

The shoe is Cardiff although RL call it Whittiker. The cap and quarters are Chestnut and the vamp is white suede, I'll try and fine a good photo to post.

Tony

[Etutee]

Unfortunately, I don't see the shoes on the Polo website, and I don't know where else to look online. Call the Rhinelander Mansion store on Madison Avenue in NYC (212-606-2100). That's where I saw the shoes, and I don't think that many of the Ralph Lauren stores other than that one carry an extensive selection of the Edward Green Purple Label shoes. However, each Ralph Lauren store should have a binder containing rather poor quality pictures of the current season's shoes, and if you live near a store, that might be an option. Additionally, I've been told that they will ship an individual pair of shoes from NYC to another Ralph Lauren store for you to take a look at if you desire.

Dear Jcusey & Tony,
Thank you for your well-informed replies. Now I have one more question. What last are these shoes on? (Tony help!) Also, I am a 8D (British EG size) in last 202 so what size will best fit me for these?

kind regards
sincerely
etutee

[jcusey]

Now I have one more question. What last are these shoes on? (Tony help!) Also, I am a 8D (British EG size) in last 202 so what size will best fit me for these?

Most of the RLPL EG shoes are on the 89 last, and I believe that these are, as well. In my experience, 89 is a fairly roomy last. I wear a UK 9.5D or 9.5E in 202, and although I wear a UK 9.5D in 89, the fit is noticeably looser on 89 than 202, particularly over the instep. I would imagine that you would want either a UK 8D or a UK 7.5D, but Tony is much more qualified to hazard a guess than I am.