Last and soles for longwing brogues

[radicaldog]

I recently came across this hybrid shoe (created by a LL member through Alden Shoes' custom service): it's a longwing brogue on a city last and single sole:

http://mfanblog.blogspot.com/2009/01/on ... m-all.html

The original model by Alden (not our gracious host!) is built on a derby/blucher last and has double soles:

http://www.aldenshop.com/DrawOneShoe.asp?CategoryID=46

Now I guess my question is this: most of us are fine with brogued wingtip oxfords for proper city use (i.e. not just rus in urbe); but what about longwings, i.e. shoes with 'wrap-around' tooling? Is the longwing style suitable just for country lasts (brogue or derby/blucher) and double soles, or does it look OK even on a city last and single sole?

Regards,

rd

PS As an aside, I rather like that very dark oxblood cordovan: I would dare to say that it wouldn't be out of place at night (or course not in a protocol-regulated circumstance, though!), as I suspect it would appear virtually black under artificial light.

[ajoman]

I must admit, the single sole version is attractive to my eye. I believe the last change helps the shoe to look cohesive on the single sole. I would wear the shoe in a variety of circumstances, and hope the creator enjoys them fully.

[radicaldog]

I've finally realised what I think the problem is with those shoes. This is what I've posted on the blog of the LL member who ordered them:

There's something that doesn't quite add up with these shoes, intriguing as they are.

They have open lacing, thus they are derbys/bluchers. Bluchers on city lasts are perfectly acceptable even for wear with city suit these days. However they tend to be very plain, to compensate for the country/casual blucher construction (think of the EG Farringdon, say). A full brogue on a city last and with single soles simply has to be an oxford, i.e. it has to have closed lacing.

And a corollary: I can't quite imagine an oxford longwing. The longwing model is a very casual brogue, and it requires a derby/blucher construction. So there is a virtuous circularity of sorts between longwing tooling and heavyish country blucher/derby construction.

Sorry for stating those points somewhat peremptorily -- obviously it's just my interpretation of a tradition.

[Concordia]

As always, context matters. The purchaser of the first pair works in a not-quite-formal office, and is partial to tweeds and flannels. He works in a very city that sees a lot of snow. He is also not a large man. For this reason, his citified long-wing has real promise for daytime wear, especially given the American tolerance of shoes that are too-solid (or too effeminate on the other end of the scale).

In an English office, or one where worsted suits rule the day, these be a less happy inspiration. But it seems that MFan has calibrated his own model quite well.