Visit to the Bugelli workshop on July 11

[tteplitzmd]

I would like to report on my visit to Leonardo Bugelli last week in Florence.

The shop is in a residential area of Florence, 5 minutes or so from the Duomo. General matters were discussed and then rather like a physician's exam you strip to the waist (no undershirt). Measurements are taken and he asked that I return in an hour or two. I asked our driver to take us to Cellerini. My wife purchased two beautiful handbags at Cellerini (a very small atelier leather shop known to handbag enthusigts, on the order of Delveaux in Belgium). Of interest, I knew of Cellerini as did Mr. Bugelli, but our Driver who is very very knowledgable had not known of Cellerini). Lunch at Villa San Michelle in Fiosole followed. I then returned to Bugelli.

Mr Bugelli had prepared a voile body, sleeves, white cuffs, white neckband, which I put on with out an undershirt. Mr. Bugelli correclty noted issues with the armholes, shoulder drop, fielded my questions about the collar height and other matters. Thus far, no discussion of details like cuff design, collar, etc.

Then discussion of collar, cuffs, buttonholes (handmade or machinemade), button types, and finally fabrics. His in house cloths are Bonfanti, Swiss, and another Italian mill. He has extensive swatches of the Bonfanti cloths. I settled on a very lightweight light green pencil stripe on white shirt with matching collar and cuffs. No placket, generous side pleats and one breast pocket. the cuff I chose was whatever Mr. Bugelli was wearing and I cannot really describe.

Some discussion of the washing, pressing, etc. followed, and I look forward to receiving the shirt in a month or so. When I am less jet lagged I will attempt to post several photos.

Gentlemen should know that they will almost certainly get a very trimly fit shirt: our Russian banker member may attest to that? I must say that I was fascinated by how the very high armholes were unusually comfortable with the crude try on. I would like to second David Bresch's opinion that the workmanship and details appear to me to be exceptional.

I would be interested in others who are farther along with their shirts from Mr. Bugelli.

Terry A. Teplitz

[tteplitzmd]

Please see the photojournal hand made shirt area for two crude photos of my visit.
The shirt shown was only for fitting and made within two hours of the initial measurements, and is a generic coth he uses for this purpose. At the time of these photos, there have not been any discussion of collar, cuff, pleats, etc. The fitting is without and undershirt at his request.

Terry A. Teplitz, M.D.

[andreyb]

Gentlemen should know that they will almost certainly get a very trimly fit shirt: our Russian banker member may attest to that? I must say that I was fascinated by how the very high armholes were unusually comfortable with the crude try on. I would like to second David Bresch's opinion that the workmanship and details appear to me to be exceptional.

Well, I'm from Russia and I visited Leonardo, but I definitely not a banker!

Still, here is my opinion on trimness: I hadn't instructed Leonardo on how trim shirts should be, so what he made for me is probably his default version. The shirts are fitted, of course, much more fitted than your usual ready-made ones, but I can't call them that trim... To my taste, they are even not trim enough, so I asked Leonardo to make my other shirts a bit trimmer.

But you know -- too much trimness is an enemy to the comfort, so the choice is very individual.

Andrey

P.S.: I promise to take pictures of the shirts Leonardo made for me, and post them on the forum.

[tteplitzmd]

Leonardo had elaborate instructions for hand wash, type of soap, etc., so I am wondering how you have handled the shirt maintenance, and how successfully?

(my apologies for the banker reference, I recall a posting where you referenced Russian bankers' clothing, and mistankenly inferred that was your profession)

[andreyb]

Leonardo had elaborate instructions for hand wash, type of soap, etc., so I am wondering how you have handled the shirt maintenance, and how successfully?

Very interesting... We also discussed this topic with Leonardo, and he didn't mentioned hand washing. He suggested to use a washing machine (in gentle mode, of course) and liquid washing soap (instead of washing powder).

(my apologies for the banker reference, I recall a posting where you referenced Russian bankers' clothing, and mistankenly inferred that was your profession)

No problem!

Andrey

[tteplitzmd]

He suggested to us liquid non scented soap applied by hand to the collar and cuff areas (which have interlining), hang to dry, then hand ironed warm to hot setting. If machine washed, then delicate,cool water settings. (many commercial laundries here use very warm if not hot water, and machine pressing, guaranteed to crush the buttons and othewise defile the shirt in short order).