Your Bespoke Projects

[hugoparis]

Gentlemen,

Just took delivery of my first Cifonelli Dark Grey, super100, wool and cashmere, SB, 2 buttons suit. Just perfect. It's truly an amazing sensation to walk in Paris with this unique suit... Bespoke is highly addictive.

My next suit will be another Cifonelli (i'm parisian, and it is such an experience to be taken care of by Lorenzo Cifonelli himself). Same style, Navy Blue. I start it next week/

One of my project is to ask them to cut a Paddock Coat for me. I love this coat and i did not had the chance to see one of these except on Apparel Arts Drawings.

As i don't know how to post a picture here, i advice those who would like to know more about this wonderful overcoat to go on my baby-blog (http://parisiangentleman.com) in order to see picture.

Btw, can someone help me with the photo posting procedure ?
Regards,
HUGO

[Costi]

Dear Hugo,

Welcome to the Lounge and congratulations on your new suit!
Here is how to post pictures:
-upload the picture(s) on an image hosting site, such as photobucket.com or imageshack.us
- if the pictures are large, choose resize to 800x600 when uploading (imageshack has this option for sure, but photobucket must have it, too)
- copy the "direct link" from the set of links provided
- paste the link in your LL post where you want it in the text
- select the link and then click on "Img" above the text editing window - this will automatically ad the [image] and [/image] codes to the extremities of the link, thus embedding the image
- click "Preview" below the editing window to check the result before posting
- when you are done editing and previewing, hit "Submit".

There are alternative options such as embedding a thumbnail hotlink (also provided by the image hosting site when uploading) in your post that opens a high resolution picture in a separate window.
Now let's see some pictures!

[hugoparis]

Thanks Costi. I will religiously follow your wise instructions.
Best, HUGO

[hugoparis]

My first try : two photos of this wonderful paddock coat (apparel arts 1935)






Here is my most wanted bespoke project... Maybe soon... or maybe not. What do you think ? HUGO

[hugoparis]

Gentlemen,

here is the front view of the paddock coat (spring 1935).

[img]4a7bd16f[/img]

HUGO

[Costi]

Here is a link to Thomas Mahon's interpretation:

http://www.englishcut.com/888889002overcoat1.jpg

And here is my own rendition:

[hugoparis]

Thank you. Wonderful coat Costi.

[jb]

Great coat, Costi!

Joel

[Costi]

Thank you. You might also enjoy reading this thread:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... at&start=0

[Scot]

With a touch of spring in the air my thoughts are turning towards summer.

I have just taken delivery of an odd jacket - a blue glen check from the John G Hardy "Riviera" book. It has made up very nicely and I will post pictures once it is warm enough to go outside to take them!

I have been deep in thought about a summer weight suit. I am edging towards Dormeuil's "Mystic" book - an 8oz mid grey wool/mohair (5%).

Both of the above are, of course, "Girlie cloths" according to many here but hey ho.

[Costi]

I have been deep in thought about a summer weight suit. I am edging towards Dormeuil's "Mystic" book - an 8oz mid grey wool/mohair (5%).

Spare yourself the disappointment...

[Scot]

I have been deep in thought about a summer weight suit. I am edging towards Dormeuil's "Mystic" book - an 8oz mid grey wool/mohair (5%).

Spare yourself the disappointment...

Costi, is this just the prejudice of the heavy brigade or do you have some other rationale for warning me off?

[Costi]

Only if you call acting out of experience "prejudice". Ethymologically, yes, a pre-judice, in the sense that I considered the alternative before, experimented and found it unsatisfactory, so I don't have to do it all over again with each instance. The superlight cloth bunches up, has no drape and feels like the outer layers of an onion. Plus it tailors miserably and is a curse for the craftsman. It is said that intelligence is that which we use when we don't KNOW what to do. Believe me, there is nothing clever about avoiding these tissue paper cloths, it is just common sense. I have a suit made of Dormeuil summer Amadeus (and it's not 8 oz!) - beautiful colour, but an impossible cloth; sadly, you only realize it when the suit is made, because it looks great in the shop.
In the sense in which you used the term, I think YOU must be prejudiced in favour of these cloths because of all the marketing information that goes with this superlight fashion. And if you tried both a good 13 oz fresco (take the Brisa for example) and an 8 oz cloth and preferred the latter, then we must be different species sartorially

[pchong]

I am with Costi here...the heavier cloth will drape much better. And seriously a fresco or fresco-like material like Brisa will be cool to wear...regardless of weight.

[Scot]

Only if you call acting out of experience "prejudice". Ethymologically, yes, a pre-judice, in the sense that I considered the alternative before, experimented and found it unsatisfactory, so I don't have to do it all over again with each instance. The superlight cloth bunches up, has no drape and feels like the outer layers of an onion. Plus it tailors miserably and is a curse for the craftsman. It is said that intelligence is that which we use when we don't KNOW what to do. Believe me, there is nothing clever about avoiding these tissue paper cloths, it is just common sense. I have a suit made of Dormeuil summer Amadeus (and it's not 8 oz!) - beautiful colour, but an impossible cloth; sadly, you only realize it when the suit is made, because it looks great in the shop.
In the sense in which you used the term, I think YOU must be prejudiced in favour of these cloths because of all the marketing information that goes with this superlight fashion. And if you tried both a good 13 oz fresco (take the Brisa for example) and an 8 oz cloth and preferred the latter, then we must be different species sartorially

Costi, I am genuinely grateful for your advice and it has caused me to re-think. I can assure you that I am entirely open minded and NEVER knowingly influenced by marketing and fashion. Fortunately I can call upon the services of an exceptional cutter and very good coat maker. More information about Brisa would be welcome.