My bespoke project in Asia

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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fabrics
Posts: 47
Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 5:10 pm
Location: Taipei
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Wed Feb 11, 2009 1:03 am

I am glad that I have 2 suit lengths of Brisa fabrics ready for my bespoke suit projects.
My bespoke tailors here have made more than 5 suits/jackets for me. I am pleased with their latest work.

Would LL members give me some comments? I am thinking of using the Brisa fabric for my next suit, based on this silhouette. I am about 5'8" and 82kg

The fabric is about 10oz. very high gorge. SB. 3buttons roll to 2. center vent at back. ticket pocket. My tailor said he can make armhole higher next time.

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pchong
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Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:18 am

I think the suit looks pretty good..the proportions look good. Perhaps this is a personal choice, but I would have preferred side vents or no vents. The armhole looks fine.
DFR
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Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:23 pm

It looks reasonably good although the pictures are somewhat dark. I would agree about the vents but the trousers seem a tad short. They would benefit considerably from a little more break.
Pelham
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Wed Feb 11, 2009 11:56 pm

DFR wrote:but the trousers seem a tad short. They would benefit considerably from a little more break.
I'd be very interested to know if other members agree with that comment. It seems to me that this is a good length, because it doesn't reveal any sock yet it avoids the dimpling that would result from more break. It looks clean, this way. Do you argue for more break for its own sake, or for a lengthening / heightening effect, or for some other reason?
Costi
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Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:39 am

I would say that lengthening the leg while keeping the current hem width would only result in a bunch of cloth covering the ankles. What I would do is increase the hem width slightly (that will also make for a better proportion with the shoe/foot). That would allow the leg to come down a bit more without bunching up. If you also have the hem cut on a slant, slightly shorter in front, the effect is even better. But in order not to upset the line of the leg, you need to add some extra width at the top of the trousers, as well. This will also make the trousers more comfortable - your hips and seat seem to call for it. For the same reason I agree side vents would work better on your coats. Stylistically I would personally like to see less roping on the shoulders, a bit more roll in the lapels and I would also let go of the ticket pocket on town suits. But all these are IMPROVEMENTS according to my personal taste on future orders and your suit looks pretty good! Wear it in good health!
pchong
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Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:15 am

I would agree with you Pelham...the length is good. Any longer, and the break would spoil the nice line of the trousers.
Pelham wrote:
DFR wrote:but the trousers seem a tad short. They would benefit considerably from a little more break.
I'd be very interested to know if other members agree with that comment. It seems to me that this is a good length, because it doesn't reveal any sock yet it avoids the dimpling that would result from more break. It looks clean, this way. Do you argue for more break for its own sake, or for a lengthening / heightening effect, or for some other reason?
shredder
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Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:19 am

I second Pelham and pchong in that the length in the front is just fine as it is. My personal preference would be to make the back about an inch longer, but that is just my stylistic preference rather than a suggestion for improvement.
fabrics
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Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:11 am

Thank you LL members' valuable comments.

I recall M Alden had mentioned the silhouette "LondonLounge Cut." I had that in mind for my last bespoke project. I did wish that suit had more lapel roll. Well, I will show you all my Brisa suit project soon.
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