Your Bespoke Projects

[alden]

Seeing some of the fittings pictures and discussions of Polo coats, I thought it might be good to post a Your Bespoke Projects thread where members can bounce ideas about their next projects around.

So I will start. The Polo overcoat is on hold pending finding the right camelhair. I have a project for another Ulster variant to make with either the Etna cashmere (should it be made) or a piece or 1960s era brown Sportex by Dormeuil.



Cheers

Michael Alden

[alden]

I recently found a piece of 60s era Reid & Taylor 12 ozs doeskin in a rich camel color. The idea is a house coat that can be worn out in a pinch.



This one would be great in light blue linen as well.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[manton]

I want an overcoat, but every time I scrape the money together I get something else instead.

I can't decide what OC to get, which is also a problem.

[sam]

A timely and helpful thread. Here are my current projects:
-A camel hair polo coat made in the classic tan color from W. Bill's camel hair book in 19/20 oz.
- A blue herringbone sport coat from the P&H Glorious Twelfth book: 1 button, open patch pockets, double vents.
- A pair of plain toe oxfords with swans neck stitching on the sides in oxblood

BTW, congrats on your write up in the latest British Esquire Mr. Alden!

[alden]

-A camel hair polo coat made in the classic tan color from W. Bill's camel hair book in 19/20 oz.

Of course, W Bill's camelhair would be a nice one. What is the shade, a rich apricot tan or beige?

BTW, congrats on your write up in the latest British Esquire Mr. Alden!

Thanks very much. I am glad to know you enjoyed the article.

Cheers

Michael

[sam]

Of course, W Bill's camelhair would be a nice one. What is the shade, a rich apricot tan or beige?

I would say its more apricot than beige.

[alden]

Sam

The other possibility is the natural white toned beige that we see in this clipping from a fabrics book from 1935.



I have not see this one for ages.

Cheers

Michael

[jb]

I am looking to have a tweed overcoat made. I plan for it to be a clean lined single breasted with set-in sleeves. I was about to pull the trigger on a Scabal Harris Tweed in a loden color with a deep purple windowpane. (The actual cloth is not really as loud as that sounds). However, Michael has just let us know that he is working on the cloth that was in my mind when I first started mulling over the concept for this coat -- a heavy, less refined wide herringbone. For now, that project is on hold pending developments in his Donegal tweed.

Chris made some mid-gray woolen flannel trousers for me this fall that have become the ones I reach for all of the time now. I just chose some very light warm gray colored flannel for another pair in the same 14 oz weight that I plan to wear on those cold, but clear days in early spring.

I have also started looking for a jacket cloth of about 11 oz for spring. As others have said, that means that it will probably be done some time during the heat of summer, but so it goes.

That is most of what is currently at the top of my priority list.

Cheers,
Joel

[culverwood]

Greyish with red windowpane check tweed suit.

Dark brown or black balmoral (golosh) or Thomas shoe with punched cap

[Costi]

Latest commission: self-stripe cotton white pajamas with dark blue piping.

[Andre Yew]

Waiting for delivery on a 3-piece 6x2 DB from the light gray Brisa.

Started a 2-piece 6x2 DB on Coops2.

In the middle of a new sportcoat (I forget the cloth, but it's a green background with red windowpane, cashmere) with a local tailor.

A new tuxedo shirt with turndown collar and pique front, and another white shirt.

Waiting for delivery of a pair of black oxfords.

I'm trying to decide on how to make up the BoB (3-piece SBPL or 2-piece DB), and would like a tweed plaid pea coat.

--Andre

[sam]

Latest commission: self-stripe cotton white pajamas with dark blue piping.

Bespoke pajamas; very cool! I didn't know one could have pajamas made bespoke.

Costi, would you mind telling us who is making these for you? I was considering a pair from either T&A or Derek Rose, but bespoke would be even better.

[dopey]

A more casual overcoat is at the top of my list, but I am wavering between a raglan sleeved, fly front tweed and a camelhair polo.

I also really need to work through my stock of accumulated cloth.

Edit: I think the overcoat may have to come off my list.

[radicaldog]

I iust took delivery of:

(i) a deep brown Harris tweed four-pocket (with buttons and gussets) sportscoat. Nice idea, but the tailor really messed up the side vents, which won't stay closed (I think there just isn't enough fabric in the side parts of the coat).

(ii) brown/green cavalry tweed trousers, cloth by Zegna, around 14oz (I think).

And I'm currently thinking about:

(i) What to make of a suit's length of heavy mid-gray flannel. It'll probably become a very simple 2B suit, with patch hip pockets and welted breast pocket. Nothing fancy, no tricks. But I am tempted to make a 4-roll-2 DB with three patch pockets. Any advice?

(ii) My tailor showed me a bolt of an unusual (for me) cloth: it's a wool worsted which really looks quite similar to denim. I thinkt it's by Zegna or some other Italian weaver. It can be made up on both sides, and it's either a very light blue or a french blue, both with echoes of white -- really like denim! I'm thinking of a sportscoat with patch pockets and natural horn buttons, but this might be a faux pas. I am in my late twenties, by the way.

(iii) I've wanted an unlined natural hemp sportscoat for a long time now, but I can't find the fabric. Again, any recommendations?

(iv) I need (well, want) a linen suit. I would like a washed blue, but I'll probably end up with sand or tobacco. I'm thinking 12oz or so, half-lined, patch hip pockets.

(v) I am yet to find a decent and not too expensive shirtmaker.

I better stop here, or I'll start thinking too seriously about my bank account.

[Sator]

I am onto the seventh draft of a dress coat. When I mentioned un frack to my tailor, he cringed, as drafting and making them up is so time-consuming. I also wanted unusual stylistic features that hark back to the dress coat of earlier times - some Edwardian but I am also considering some Regency details in a tip of the hat to Beau Brummell. All of these would have been a huge burden to dump on his shoulders, so he seemed relieved to see me take up cutting myself. He has already seen my final trial garment and he was impressed enough to offer me a job (he wasn't joking either), although he picked up on a problem I missed in that it was a bit long in the front balance. It was easily fixed, and the corrected trial garment promises something truly special.

I will probably end up making it up myself to some degree, especially the interfacing, as I want a particularly traditional, structured inner construction. At a certain point, I am probably going to end up getting him to finish the garment but I am in constant dialogue with him. He doesn't mind, as I always have a lounge suit on order from him, and it spares him the monster task of cutting and making a body coat. In a small tailor's shop like his, he just can't afford to spend so much time on a single unusual garment. He would have to work on such a coat himself rather than give it to his co-workers, as well.

Once I have perfected the pattern for my dress coat it will be a relatively easy matter to spin out a morning coat, a frock coat, or even an Albert top frock using the dress coat as the basis.