The Duke's double inspiration

[alden]

RWS,

Buttonholes are sewn in places where they are functional. In the 6 x 2 set up the top buttons are “ornamental” and not functional.

The buttonhole you speak about would normally be found on a 6 x 3 or 6x6 configuration as worn below by the one shot Bond.



A very dandy look is the 6 x 3 (or 6x6) rolled to 2. In this instance the functional buttonhole on the top row is shown on the back of the rolled lapel. Windsor used to wear this from time to time in the 20s and 30s. There is a great photo out there, but I can’t seem to find it. Stay tuned.

Cheers

Michael

[alden]

Cantabrigian

The cloth in question is a black and light grey marled birdseye. I find these mixes very versatile. During the day when outside, the natural light illuminates the light colored fibers and the garment appears a mid gray. At night, the dark threads dominate and the cloth looks more somber.

Actually I was having this conversation in London the other day about “pick and pick” fabrics and the new gray Brisa cloth. These are so very versatile I call them “chameleon” fabrics.

You will also see that in all the photos of the DBs, including those worn by Gable, Fairbanks and Windsor, the black and gray marled fabric is preferred.

Cheers

[alden]

Here is a picture of a 6 x 3 DB rolled to 2 and worn with the inner button undone.

[carl browne]

A beautiful coat.

Is it correct for me to assume that the reason your coat has six buttons and the Duke's had only four has to do with your greater height?

I have always thought that the Duke chose four buttons for his db coats because on his tiny frame six buttons would have appeared somewhat precious at best, and ridiculous at worst--like an overdressed midget or ventriloquist's dummy. The duke's solution prevented a crowd of buttons on the coat-front, and the closure at the bottom button emphasized width (and perhaps height) by creating a long diagonal line of the lapel.

While it's not entirely clear how tall you are, plainly you would need or want none of that; you have adopted all of the attributes of the Duke's coat that work to your advantage and make a success of it.

Thanks.

[alden]

Is it correct for me to assume that the reason your coat has six buttons and the Duke's had only four has to do with your greater height?

Carl

The DB in question is more of a city coat and as such I felt the 6 x 2 more appropriate. You can compare this to the "Useful" DB that was intended for a more extended set of wearing environments and therefore is set up as a 4 x 2.

In the Duke's case, the 4 x2 was chosen for the reasons you have cited. At 5'2" in elevator shoes, Windsor's frame could hardly support the 6 x 2 for suits, or coats.

I am nearly 6'3" and the doctor has assured me that I will never get all the way to three but start to recede in the other direction. Its something to do with gravity.


Cheers

Michael Alden