Russia Calf

[carl browne]

Do any of you gentlemen have any opinion of salvaged Russia Calf? Is it worth the premium? New & Lingwood has a few RTW, and I think Cleverly has some for bespoke.

The most wonderful leather in the world

In 1973 divers off Plymouth Sound, searching for the wreck of H.M.S Harwich came across an encrusted ship's bell. It was lying in shallow water between Drake's island and the coast of Cornwall. After the bell was cleaned it was seen to belong to the Catherina von Flensburg, an eighteenth century, 53 ton Danish brigantine, registered as belonging to Hedrick Larck and Kurt Anderson between 1782 and 1786.

Searches in local archives brought to light the story of the Catherina's last voyage from St Petersburg to the independent republic of Genoa, and the gale which forced her off course on the night of 10th December 1786. It ended with brigantine sinking in the darkness complete with her entire cargo of hemp and hides. Fortunately the crew were able to reach the shore but the ship and cargo were lost for over 200 hundred years.

Excitement rose amongst New & Lingwood's team of bespoke shoe craftsmen in Jermyn Street as they learnt of the discovery. The Russia calf was known to possess almost legendary qualities, its aroma, water resistance and variety were unsurpassed and the secret production process had been lost in the early 1900's following the Russian Revolution. An imitation of Russia calf had been produced by pirated techniques in France and Germany but it could not compete with the "real Russia" which outclassed it: a fact easily confirmed by comparing book-bindings of genuine Russia calf of an earlier generation with the disintegrating bindings of later days

The treasure of the Catherina was lying rolled in bags on the floor of the Plymouth Sound covered in mud and silt. ..a worthy prize if only it had retained those prized characteristics.

Later it was established that the Prince of Wales as Duke. of Cornwall was the rightful owner of the Catherina's hoard but he waived his rights and agreed that the hides should be sold to finance excavation of the brig. New & Lingwood bought what we consider to be the best of those hides and our craftsmen made up sample shoes. The results are exquisite and the shoes are in display in Jermyn Street.

A small amount of restoration was necessary however before the leather could be worked. This was undertaken in Cornwall and hides after being soaked in fresh water for some time, were treated with a unique dressing. It appears that they not only retained their wonderful water resistance, their immunity to humidity changes their particular musky aroma but also their variety and attractiveness.

Here we have the original pre 1800 leather-mainly reindeer, cured in baths of rye or oat flour and yeast, hand finished and soaked in wood liquor. Hand curried while still wet and soaked in seal oil and birch tan oil. It is the birch oil that gave the Russia leather its distinctive aroma. The original tanners initials are still visible and the hatched grain embossed by coffer or wooden hand stamps on the damp leather can be seen to enhance the lovely natural colours, which range from light tan to rich coffee brown.

[marcelo]

According to Jeremy Hackett (Mr Classic, p. 20.) shoes made with the rescued precious cargo are "tough and waterproof, the hand-embossed cross-hatching only adding to their individuality". These qualities are mentioned in Nicholas Storey's book (p. 72), as well as in Helge Sternecke's Alles über Herrenschuhen (p. 95), which includes a photo of a pair of loafers made with the Russian leather from Catherina's last voyage.

[carl browne]

Marcelo, thank you.

What is the title of the Nicholas Storey book?

I don't suppose "Alles über Herrenschuhen" is available in English translation? My German's a little rusty.

[marcelo]

The book by Nicholas Storey (a LL member known as NJS) is entitled: History of Men's Fashion: What the Well Dressed Man is Wearing. I don't think there is an English translation of Alles über Herrenschuhen. This is a very comprehensive work on male footwear.

[dopey]

Marcelo, thank you.

What is the title of the Nicholas Storey book?

I don't suppose "Alles über Herrenschuhen" is available in English translation? My German's a little rusty.

. . . and not yet carried by Amazon in the US (though available in the UK). Soon to be remedied, I hope?

[storeynicholas]

Marcelo, thank you.

What is the title of the Nicholas Storey book?

I don't suppose "Alles über Herrenschuhen" is available in English translation? My German's a little rusty.

. . . and not yet carried by Amazon in the US (though available in the UK). Soon to be remedied, I hope?

Dear Dopey,
Thank you, I hope so too - eventually - I've no idea what the problem is!
best,
NJS

[whittaker]

I have a wallet made of the Russian calf. It is very distinctive and hard-wearing. The colour is rich and the cross-hatching adds hugely to the character.

Whilst I do not yet have any shoes made of this leather, I plan a pair of double monks at some stage.

[rjman]

I have a wallet made of the Russian calf.

So do I. It is an amusing gimmick. One is paying a premium for the story behind it. The leather itself is rather stiff and can crack fairly easily.

[whittaker]

One is paying a premium for the story behind it. The leather itself is rather stiff and can crack fairly easily.

I quite agree with the reason for the premium but I have seen no cracking yet. Has your wallet leather cracked, rjman?

[marcelo]

I have a wallet made of the Russian calf.

So do I. It is an amusing gimmick. One is paying a premium for the story behind it. The leather itself is rather stiff and can crack fairly easily.

True, one is paying for the story behind this, and for the costly efforts which made this history true. But is there anything intrinsically unwise about this? If one is to prefer a certain pair of shoes, say, because they belonged to one’s grandfather, and only for this reason, why shouldn’t one prefer – and be ready to pay – for a pair of shoes the substance of which is over 200 years old? The logic behind this has its own rules, and the economic factor may not be decisive.

[rjman]

One is paying a premium for the story behind it. The leather itself is rather stiff and can crack fairly easily.

I quite agree with the reason for the premium but I have seen no cracking yet. Has your wallet leather cracked, rjman?

Areas where the leather has to be thin (like the edging at the seams) are giving way in one or two places.