A 20 Oz Three Piece Lounge Suit

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

masterfred
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Tue Oct 14, 2008 12:30 am

Sator wrote:Weave is very important to how warm a cloth runs....
This is generally true. However, not even the finest fresco will counteract the effects of 100+ F temperatures and concomitantly high humidity. In fact, being stark naked is little relief in such ambient environments. :oops:
Sator
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Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:17 am

Actually, I would infinitely prefer to wear a 22 Oz cavalry twill lounge suit outdoors in the searing heat than sizzle like a steak in my birthday suit. In the former instance the cloth shields against the impact of the sun, in the latter instance you just burn. Literally burn. And then you die - of skin cancer. It is also possible to get third degree burns from sun burn.

There is a damned good reason the Bedouin don't run around naked. The idea that dress = uncomfortable, nakedness = comfortable is a modern urban myth. The fashion houses are responsible for putting out this propaganda. That's why they want you to run around semi-naked in t-shirts, shorts, and flip flops. "Be comfortable" sings their siren!

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Last edited by Sator on Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
masterfred
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Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:41 am

Oh, I wasn't advocating we drop trou (and coat and shirt) when it's sunny....and I've always found the mania for baking one's flesh in the sun more than a bit of crazy. My younger sister has done so for years, and at the ripe age of 32 looks like she's pushing her late 40s. I was simply making the point that when one lives in really steamy and hot environs that your natural cooling system will barely work, and cocooning oneself in thick, snugly fitted worsted will just make you that much more miserable. I think I've posted this here before, but I was in Washington DC one summer a few years ago - height of August - and the 10 oz open weave suit I had on was literally drenched in sweat after a -1/2 mile walk to an appointment. My business meeting, needless to say, was highly uncomfortable in more than one way after that little stroll. The thought of doubling the weight of that suit is enough to make me expire of heat stroke just contemplating it.
Sator
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Tue Oct 14, 2008 2:00 am

Yes, I appreciate what you are saying and I agree with you. I have similarly felt like I was cooking in 9 Oz fresco, making me question why I bothered with commissioning the lounge suit!

My little experiments so far suggest that on that fateful day in August swimming in the heat, you might as well have been wearing a 20 Oz suiting. It wouldn't have made much difference, and you might have been kept cooler by it if you were walking in the sun, through its superior ability to shield you form the heat. Heavier cloths only run warmer indoors or in the shade.

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Last edited by Sator on Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Despos
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Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:19 am

Sator wrote:[quote="pbc"
pbc
By button stance, I presume that you meant that the buttons are arranged in a V shape? The AA illustration shows a more typical arrangement, which unfortunately is the default configuration on RTW garments. Actually, I didn't ask for it, and although I did consider asking for it to be changed, it has grown on me, so I will probably keep it. I could change it myself today if I wanted to.

This illustration nicely shows both configurations:

[img]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa28 ... fasson.jpg[/img
)[/quote]

This is an excellent example to demonstrate variation of DB button stance. The first picture that served as inspiration for your suit is cut as the solid suit pictured here, a classic 3X2, except that it is worn rolled to the lower button. This is the DB version of a single breasted 3 rolled 2. Looking closely you will notice the small bit of belly on the lapel edge begins above the middle button on the herringbone AA picture and that the middle and lower button are on the same vertical line. You can also make out the middle buttonhole on the roll of the lapel.
carl browne
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Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:50 pm

Ok, then. I'm going to look at cavalry twill. No doubt horsemen would know what's best in extremes of weather. What color? Khaki?

What about worsted mohair? Can it be an open weave and a heavy cloth at the same time?

Also, what about all the lining, underlining, padding, etc.? To what extent can these be minimized to make things cooler?

I never wear braces. Does it help to wear trousers cut with a loose waist and braces?

I really like the general appearance, durability and crease-resistance of the heavy cloth, but am trying to determine how to make it bearable in Southern California. Experimentation can be expensive.
Guest

Wed Oct 22, 2008 4:22 am

nice suit you just need to button up and get that white handkerchief out of there, put it in your trousers pocket and you will be ready to go. Nice material, gray herringbone looks nice on sunny days.
Sator
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Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:02 am

santy567 wrote:nice suit you just need to button up and get that white handkerchief out of there, put it in your trousers pocket and you will be ready to go.
Huh????????????????? :shock:

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Last edited by Sator on Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Sator
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Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:19 am

santy567 wrote:Nice material, gray herringbone looks nice on sunny days.
Ahem... sorry about that rude outburst.

Thank you. Yes, 20 Oz herrigbone is indeed wonderful for sunny summer days. Make sure you that you too fill your summer wardrobe with lots of 18-22 Oz gems :D
pvpatty
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Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:17 am

Sator wrote:
santy567 wrote:nice suit you just need to button up and get that white handkerchief out of there, put it in your trousers pocket and you will be ready to go.
Huh????????????????? :shock:
Good grief!
Guest

Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:05 am

you can't wear a jacket on summer, not even ties. or am i wrong?
Sator
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Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:21 am

You can wear a coat and tie in the summer provided the cloth weighs at least 18 Oz.

I wear coat and tie to the beach. To work - no question about it.

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Last edited by Sator on Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Guest

Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:27 am

in the summer i feel bad for those employees who have to wear a dark suit and jacket in the heat. but really, isn't uncomfortable to wear a tie in warm weather?
pvpatty
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Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:37 am

Sator wrote:You can wear a coat and tie in the summer provided the cloth weighs at least 18 Oz.

I wear coat and tie to the beach. To work - no question about it.
Sound advice.
Sir Henry
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Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:22 pm

l couldn't bare a 20 Oz tweed in 23 degree weather, but l sure like the suit. lt's the best fitting suit i've seen from your tailor....almost makes me want to give him a go (much more affordable than my guy).

Regards: a friend.
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