For your consideration

[pvpatty]

The DB is fantastic.

[Manfield]

I agree! That DB is fantastic. Would you be able to share any details on the cloth?

[mafoofan]

The cloth is from John G. Hardy, 13.5 oz. worsted (I think) flannel. I'm no flannel expert, but it seems more like a woolen--I can't see any of the weave that is supposed to give away a worsted.

When I tried looking it up on the Hardy website, I couldn't find it. I suspect it might actually be a Minnis cloth, but who knows.

[uppercase]

I like what Rubinacci made for you very much.

As well, I think that your selection of cloth and the way you put together the outfits is very elegant.

I like the sports coats on you best, only because you look very relaxed and I've always admired the way the Italians wear their sports coats for business; if you can wear sports coats at your work, it's a good look for you and Rubinacci makes a great sports coat. I would have more made if I were you, both for Fall and Summer. It works for you. Perhaps the suits for more formal occassions.

My only suggestions: work some more on the trousers: even though the Italians don't make a really good trouser from the get-go, they can ofcourse do it if you guide them; I'd try to get a higher rise and a trouser leg that hangs more straight perhaps a bit fuller as well.

Also, Rubinacci can make you a narrower cuff on your coats; they can taper it down from the elbow to the wrist; the comfort of their coat in the sleeves is from the wider elbow up to the bicep; a narrower cuff would not be contrary to their house style nor compromise comfort. A tighther cuff is more elegant I think.

Finally, since you are going to be wearing these beautiful clothes for years to come, be sure that they don't fit so snugly that they will not be able to grow with you; there should be enough inlays to let them out eventually. Particularly with the sports coats, you will want to be able to layer in a vest or thin sweater and so, will want sufficient room to do that. If you look at Luca's blue coat, there is alot of drape there and apparent comfort as he moves; you want to have that freedom as well, and the Italians generally tend to make coats too fitted and tight; take a cue from Luca and be careful that the tailor doesn't fit you too snugly.

Good luck and a great job.

[BirdofSydney]

Matt,

I was just looking at your blog this afternoon, enjoying the write-up on Anna Matuzzo. I enjoyed your work there, and likewise your photographs here. A few thoughts, if I may...

1. As a fellow man of relatively diminutive stature, there are two stylistic moves you've made which I would be scared to copy. The first is cuffs on trousers, the second is checked odd jackets. I feel that both accentuate one's lack of height.

This may not be an issue for you, and I'm certainly not inviting you to worry, but just mentioning it. The deep cuffs, in particular, are a real temptation for me, but it's just not working for me. That said, the breakless trousers obviously do the opposite, so it maybe evens out.

2. Whilst on the topic of trousers, do you wear braces or a belt?

3. I love your first day outfit! Everything is just so, sober and serious with a dash of colour in the pocket. That collar particularly flatters, the shirt is bespoke by Anna, I presume?

Can you be persuaded to divulge the provenance of the tie? And the briefcase, for that matter.

4. The DB is particularly handsome. Were it me, I'd have made the coat a little more "crooked" - more overlap - to balance the fairly full shoulders and chest, but that's just me.

It will take me a few more years in the legal game to put myself on your sartorial level, but I am certainly inspired, and I mean any criticism only in the most constructive sense.

Thank you, and well done!


-Bird

[ProfMoriarty]

I heartily agree that the doublebreasted suit looks superb.
I identify with the comments as regards the shirt & collar and with the (also superb) sport jacket, but have a question/request for clarification. It appears to me that there are collar buttons on that shirt that are not bottoned? Perhaps it is the photo lighting or the quality of my computer.
In any event, while everything seems to fit well, I must again highlight the doublebreasted suit for special kudos. It looks particularly sharp on you.
Jack

[marcelo]

Welcome to the LL, ProfMoriarty!
Marcelo

[ProfMoriarty]

Thank you Marcelo for your thoughtfulness.
Jack

[M. Cee]

My initial post follows:

It is threads like this one that separates LL from other boards, I believe.
The OP's sense of stylized and elegant living, and the constructive
criticism from BMs are educational and fun for this man.

It's a civilized place to discuss such things.

Thank you for having me.

MC

[marcelo]

Dear M. Cee, your wise words are appreciated. Welcome to the LL!

[mafoofan]

My only suggestions: work some more on the trousers: even though the Italians don't make a really good trouser from the get-go, they can ofcourse do it if you guide them; I'd try to get a higher rise and a trouser leg that hangs more straight perhaps a bit fuller as well.

Also, Rubinacci can make you a narrower cuff on your coats; they can taper it down from the elbow to the wrist; the comfort of their coat in the sleeves is from the wider elbow up to the bicep; a narrower cuff would not be contrary to their house style nor compromise comfort. A tighther cuff is more elegant I think.

Finally, since you are going to be wearing these beautiful clothes for years to come, be sure that they don't fit so snugly that they will not be able to grow with you; there should be enough inlays to let them out eventually. Particularly with the sports coats, you will want to be able to layer in a vest or thin sweater and so, will want sufficient room to do that. If you look at Luca's blue coat, there is alot of drape there and apparent comfort as he moves; you want to have that freedom as well, and the Italians generally tend to make coats too fitted and tight; take a cue from Luca and be careful that the tailor doesn't fit you too snugly.

Good luck and a great job.

UC, thanks so much for the compliments. Overall, do you find these examples of Rubinacci to be a bit more 'Neapolitan' per our previous discussion?

I agree that I need to get more sportcoats. They are very appropriate and wearable, as far as my work goes. In particular, I would like to get a few more dark brown ones. But I think my next purchase will have to be a dinner jacket.

I'll take a look at the trouser issue. I hadn't noticed anything wrong myself, but it's certainly true that they seem to drape differently at times. It might be my fluctuating waist line to blame!

I'm afraid that if I tighten the jacket cuffs, they will cling too much to my shirt sleeves. Still, I can take a look into whether some adjustment is possible, since I agree with you that tighter at the cuff is more elegant.

Perhaps the arrogance of youth blinds me to the distinct possibility that I will one day outgrow my clothes. But there is more space there than it seems in the photos, I think. As of the moment, i could certainly fit a sweater underneath--although, perhaps not a particularly bulky one.

It appears to me that there are collar buttons on that shirt that are not bottoned?

They are not buttoned; it has been a subject of controversy on the other forum I frequent.

Thanks to everyone for all the compliments and insights. I have more photos, but I figure I've already cluttered up Alden's forum too much!

[David Hober]

Mafoofan,

Looking over your photos your clothes look great on you and I like your serious look.

However, what really strikes me in a very good way is your overall sense of style.

You have put a lot of thought - and traveling into what you wear and it shows.

I look forward to future sport coat photos - and more of your travels....

[DD MacDonald]

M'foo, dissenting opinion here - put a hold on the DJ.

There is no question that you will get one made but let your relationship with your tailor mature. Suits and tastes evolve through activities bespoken. Sort out waist, sleeve, lapel. Establish fluency in your discussion so you can arrive at your ideal garment. Where you can have a dozen suits and odd jackets, you'll only have one, maybe two dinner garments at any time. Any minor imperfections in a jacket are mitigated by the sucess of the next. Not so with the DJ, you're expectations and you have little chance to evolve except to commission another, the cost being enormous relative to the return measured in the utility of two garments.

Don't rush the DJ - save it until you know that you will arrive.

DDM

[boxcar]

Hi Mafoofan!

Nice clothes. If only I had the keen eye some of the other posters have!

The only thing I can add is that in the first picture I noticed that the edge dressing had worn off of your shoes. It is the picture labeled "Naples."

Your clothes are so crisp and fresh that the beat up shoe sole edges just jumped out at me.

The shoes also seem to be pretty dusty around the bottom of the tongue. You might want to address these issues before making your first impression with the office staff or a new client.

Every now and then a fella just has to de-string his shoes and perform some tongue maintenance. Bust the dust off of them, and give them a good shine. Maybe an occasional saddle soaping before the shoe polish? And afterward, apply a couple of coats of edge dressing to the soles. New strings are also an option as they, too, look nice and crisp when new. Dusty old strings CAN be tossed in the washer.

Thank goodness shoe maintenance it isn't as hard as it sounds.

Good luck !
Boxcar