LL Shetland preview

[alden]

[mek]

This looks great. The cloth is fabulous. Congratulations.

[luk-cha]

the shetland is looking good! great balance on the scale and colors!

[radicaldog]

Splendid cloth. I've got a construction worry, though: it is seems as though the pattern does not run parallel to the lapel line (esp on the wearer's left lapel).

[Costi]

The lapels have a bit of belly, but the pattern IS parallel to the imaginary line of a straight lapel. Nothing wrong with the construction in my view.

[Sator]

The lapels have a bit of belly, but the pattern IS parallel to the imaginary line of a straight lapel. Nothing wrong with the construction in my view.

1000+

Some of the "helpful" criticism you see on fora can be quite bemusing.

[David the Tailor]

There are so many ways to cut a jacket and this is only one photo so nothing is for sure. Balance is a funny thing.... I can only suggest how I would cut the coat. I see a bit of difference in the distance between the lapel edge and the pattern, left vs. right. I think that might be caused by the left facing being a touch off grain. You should have your tailor look into that. Also, the top sleeve should be let out at bit on the front under arm seam….it looks tight and as such the under arm seam is rolling out so it is too visible at the bottom of the sleeve.

The other thing is the sleeves. When I cut a windowpane suit I force the pattern to match at the armhole both on the horizontal and the vertical. Some times if it is a print linen or something like that I will ignore pattern matching a go for balance, but in windowpane I always go for matching. see photos....

Horizontal and vertical match

Print linen, the patern is not matched. The print is centered on the sleeve head, it is a more favourable balance to me.

[Costi]

Consider that this is a basted fitting, so things like sleeve setting cannot be judged too well unless we assume the finished coat looks the same as this picture. I find your commentary valuable with regard to understanding how a tailor asesses the changes a coat requires in its intermediate stages.

[David the Tailor]

Consider that this is a basted fitting, so things like sleeve setting cannot be judged too well ....

The trick with a basted fitting, especially when it comes to sleeves is this; when a sleeve is cut out of garment fabric for a basted fitting it can not be re-pitched with out effecting two things, grain and pattern. If I cut the sleeve and the pattern matches but the pitch is wrong then I am out of luck. If the pitch is wrong but the pattern matches then I am out of luck in this case also. The pitch on the sleeves Alden posted looks good, but the pattern might be a bit off. When I do a bespoke suit I do a basted body fitting with no sleeves, a fitting with the finished body with mockup sleeves, and a final with finished body and sleeves but no button holes.

[alden]

Actually, the coat above is being made for yours truly. I asked a friend to put it on for the purposes of the picture and that explains why the fit may be a bit off. The coat should be finished next week. Then I will post a picture with the bespeaker wearing ...

[Manself]

I fear I'm being slow but is this shetland cloth going into production, or is it one of the curtailed jacket foundations fabrics? It looks very fine, and I can't wait to see the finished product.

[alden]

I am afraid this one will have to go on the back burner. I am sorry for the 18 or so members who subscribed. We did reach nearly 40 meters, but we need to get to closer to 60 to make it happen; idem for the brown herringbone with green and violet windowpane.

The coat has been made from a small sample run I had made. As with all LL cloth, they are sampled to make sure things are in order before the confirmation is made and the cloth put into production. If the samples don't make the cut, the cloth does not move forward.

Cheers