First True Bespoke Suit

[alebrady01]

Gentlemen,

I have just recently joined this forum and am quite excited to have all of you available for wise input and counsel in this, my first, posting.

Let me provide some introductory context. I am based in the San Francisco bay area and have fairly regular access to NYC. I also have a trip planned to London during the early portion of September this year. I have always had an interest in the classical english look (whether it be the softer, casual air of A&S or the more structured examples from Huntsman and others). My original intent was to get initial measurements done in London, have a fitting during the fall visits to the states, and then complete the process fairly efficiently.

I have been communicating with a number of tailors (and actually to some of the members here, through other fora, that may have used some of the tailors that i am still considering) through email and they have been quite gracious with their time and attention.

My current intent is to use my London trip as an opportunity to meet with some of these tailors face-to-face and look at some of their efforts in person - to get a better idea of the individual personalities as well as styles.

The tailors I am currently still considering are:
- softer look (A&S, Hitchcock, Mahon, Steed)
- slightly more structured (Poole, Kilgour (Entry-Level)..would love to try Huntsman, but alas, a little too pricey for my comfort)

As this is my first English bespoke suit (and i seem to like well done examples from both sides of the spectrum) i can not categorically dismiss one style vs. the other at this point (i.e. not definitively sure that i prefer soft to structure). In fact, one thought i am toying with is trying two suits - one from the softer side and one from the more structured side and living with them for a while and seeing what i think over time. Of course, it may be quite possible that during my trip to London and when meeting with the above i may categorically dismiss a style or tailor but will have to see.

I suppose my question is one that i have been asking some esteemed members in PM's but now throw out to the broader audience.

For those that may have experience with the above tailors, is there any advice/input that you could provide as i go about making this consequential decision?

I am particularly interested in the experiences of the 'soft' tailors as they seem to be quite similar and the general consensus in past posts seems to be fairly, universally positive.

Are there any thoughts with respect to my plan, which i lay out above, that perhaps i should reconsider (i.e. should i only go for one suit from one side of the spectrum and see how i like it...should i stick to one style but try more than one tailor within that style to see who i like best in that particular cut)?

Any and all input, much appreciated. I thank everyone in advance for putting up with such a lengthy first posting! Also, if you prefer to more privately share your frank and candid opinions in a PM please feel free.

PS for those of you that may across this thread that I have already communicated with through other fora PM's - thank you again for your help and input! I am hoping to receive even more of the same here.

[Costi]

Welcome to the Lounge!
A well tailored coat should be comfortable regardless whether it is more or less structured. Of course, if you play the violin or dance like Fred Astaire you may feel the difference, but from the perspective of everyday life there isn’t much difference in comfort. It is more a matter of aesthetics and how you like to FEEL in your comfortable clothes: clean lines, stiffer chest pieces, more defined shoulders – or more natural lines, more drape, more wrinkles, softer shoulders etc. If you like a coat that feels and behaves like a pullover, wrinkling and adapting to every movement of your body, go for a soft one. If you prefer a coat that keeps its shape better and with cleaner lines, then go for a structured one. I guess commissioning two suits of which you are only going to like one is an expensive experiment that can be avoided, given that aesthetics rather than comfort is the differentiating factor. It is a good idea to visit the shops and meet the tailors, perhaps try on a completed jacket that “fits” your size to get a feeling of the structure and then decide for one style.
If you ask ME, you can’t go wrong with a soft coat for an everyday business suit, unless you absolutely hate the look.

[couch]

Your plan to meet the tailors, assess their style of cutting and personalities, and do initial measuring-up in London (and perhaps occasional fittings there in future) while using their U.S. visits for the intervening fittings is just what I've done, and I recommend it. I have definitely found that the reduced stress when the cutter is working "at home" improves both the initial experience and the results when significant adjustments are required. As Joshua Byrne has posted here, it's best if you can select a cutter who will also be traveling if you will be doing most of your fittings stateside, since continuity of (both of assessing/following the garment and of the relationship) will result in better results over time.

I wouldn't plunge into ordering from two different houses right away, unless you are prepared to follow up with at least a second suit from each. I say this because unless you are unusually lucky or easy to fit, even the best cutters and tailors will improve based on what they learn as they make and fit the first suit, and the second and third will almost certainly be a better representation of their capabilities. If the first suit is a complete disaster (either the outcome or the experience) then you can start fresh elsewhere.