Masterpieces and fashiondrawings from "old" German

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

The Doctor
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Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:44 pm

oldog/oldtrix wrote:I have always (but not in many years) heard such lapels referred to as "floor level" lapels. The derivation of the term seems obvious. They were favored and popularized, at least in the US, by Harry S. Truman, our only haberdasher President, though he wore them double breasted. Here's an example as worn by the dapper gent:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... otohosting

Please excuse the commercialism associated with the photo. I'm not selling anything; this is just the image I had in mind when I started looking.
I know them as side walkers.
HappyStroller
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Wed Apr 16, 2008 1:35 am

Could the term "floor level" refer to the fact that the the tops of the peak lapels are horizontal instead of being pointed upwards, rather than because the ends of the peak lapels are rounded?

And "side walkers" too?
oldog/oldtrix
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Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:24 pm

HappyStroller wrote:Could the term "floor level" refer to the fact that the the tops of the peak lapels are horizontal instead of being pointed upwards, rather than because the ends of the peak lapels are rounded?

And "side walkers" too?
Definitely, as to "floor level," though I have never seen such lapels carrying sharp points. "Side walkers" is a new term to me, but Truman was famous for his almost daily strolls.
gherrmann
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Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:48 pm

HappyStroller wrote:Could the term "floor level" refer to the fact that the the tops of the peak lapels are horizontal instead of being pointed upwards, rather than because the ends of the peak lapels are rounded?

And "side walkers" too?
I would suspect as much. Is it just my eyes, or doesn't the Truman suit depicted in the link above feature unrounded peaks?
David the Tailor
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Tue May 13, 2008 3:34 am

gherrmann wrote:Thanks, indeed, schneidergott. I find particularly interesting the somewhat soft or rounded nature of the peaked lapels on the suitcoat of the gentleman in the second illustration from the top. The style is one with which I am not familiar. Has anyone any experience with these
I prefer the "softer" look. As a tailor my self I know it takes a bit more work to produce this look and think it looks like a better quality suit. If it is too sharp it can take way from the face of the client.
HappyStroller
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Tue May 13, 2008 1:35 pm

It seems sidewalkers, or floor level lapels, are more prevalent on frock coats and frock outercoats than on lounge suits.
schneidergott
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Location: Castle Douglas, Scotland

Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:06 am

HappyStroller wrote:It seems sidewalkers, or floor level lapels, are more prevalent on frock coats and frock outercoats than on lounge suits.
Thats seems to be true, as this image from my old 30's tailoring book shows:

Image


SG
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