Finished my LL suit!

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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the tailor
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Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:31 am

Gentlemen,

I am in dire need of several new suits, and have been for some time. The other day I thought bugger it I shall finish my LL jacket that had been cut and under my board for some time.

The trousers had been made early last year, the documenting of which was on put my website 'blog'

I have made the coat a button 2 front with my signature long lapel for men of a certain...shall we say size! side vents, straight flaps, very roped sleeve heads.
I have used slim shoulder pads in the shoulders even though my preference is for neapolitan shoulders.
I have had to use shoulder pads because I have quite a 'drop right' now due to my 20 years of AS arthritis.

One thing I would like to point out is the cut of the back, I do not often cut the back section with drape, I have found over the years that there is little need for drape when the armhole is cut correctly in relation to the body.
I realise this is not to everyones taste, and also realise that back drape is sometimes cut for asthetic reasons, I will cut a back with drape on all slimmed figures for this reason, it looks better on them and gives them a more athletic appearance.

I also cut a very high armhole, which also helps to enable me to eliminate the back drape. Another reason to not have drape, you will see straight away when looking at the picture of the back section, I am no shrinking violet, I take a half back measure of 11 1/2" net, drape does not look good to my eye on men of my build.

I have added 2 pictures to demonstrate my point, 1 of the pictures has me with my arms at rest, the other has me with my arms folded, you shall have to take my word for it, but there is no restriction whatsoever in forward or upward movement, this coat is comfy!

Here are the pictures of the finished article, the coat has not been pressed off yet, so excuse the slight creases around the under sleeves.

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Cufflink79
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Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:12 pm

Ah, a gentleman tailor and his shears.

Des, the suit looks great, the roll of the lapel looks very graceful and soft.

How many buttons did you put on the sleeves?

Job well done, enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
dopey
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Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:14 pm

As luck would have it, I am wearing a Des Merrion made suit today, too. Mine is much smaller.
the tailor
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Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:33 pm

Thank's for the comments gent's.

This year has been very disruptive and really put me back a year, which is why I thought bugger it!!

I am at present working from my garage which I am hoping to convert when time allows, you can see the breeze blocks in the pictures, it is cold in there, but really great to be back on my own.

I have 3 buttons on the cuffs.
Bishop of Briggs
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Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:32 pm

Mr Merrion, many thanks for posting the pictures. The suit looks great.

I hope that the rest of the year is less disruptive. Why did you move your business back home?
melia
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Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:40 pm

Hi Des...

That coat looks fantastic, beautiful shoulders (jacket not you) :lol:

I too prefer a clean back and as you say the very high armholes don't restrict movement at all. As neither of us are racing snakes it does give a more "athletic" appearance.
misterjase

Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:45 am

wonderful jacket, Des. you have done that nice cloth justice. thanks for the post.
the tailor
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Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:00 pm

Bishop of Briggs wrote:Mr Merrion, many thanks for posting the pictures. The suit looks great.

I hope that the rest of the year is less disruptive. Why did you move your business back home?
The break up of Graham and Merrion, Graham owned the building I was working from, the sensible thing was to make a complete break.
Bishop of Briggs
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Sun Jun 22, 2008 10:48 pm

the tailor wrote:
Bishop of Briggs wrote:Mr Merrion, many thanks for posting the pictures. The suit looks great.

I hope that the rest of the year is less disruptive. Why did you move your business back home?
The break up of Graham and Merrion, Graham owned the building I was working from, the sensible thing was to make a complete break.
That is sad news. Having been in a similar situation myself recently, I know how difficult moving back to working from home can be. I hope that all goes smoothly in the future.
the tailor
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Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:54 am

A couple of other pictures, I am squinting because of the sun, not that it makes much difference to my film star looks!

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the tailor
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Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:18 pm

melia wrote:Hi Des...

That coat looks fantastic, beautiful shoulders (jacket not you) :lol:

I too prefer a clean back and as you say the very high armholes don't restrict movement at all. As neither of us are racing snakes it does give a more "athletic" appearance.
Ah..my Charles Atlas physique!
Doug
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Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:48 pm

Des:

Is your "long lapel" defined by the height of the gorge, a lower button stance, or some other factor? Like you, though I am much smaller, I have very broad shoulders that are not very sloping, so I'm very intrigued by your aesthetic.

Separately, how can a tailor be in dire need of a new suit?
the tailor
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Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:00 pm

Doug wrote:Des:

Is your "long lapel" defined by the height of the gorge, a lower button stance, or some other factor? Like you, though I am much smaller, I have very broad shoulders that are not very sloping, so I'm very intrigued by your aesthetic.

Separately, how can a tailor be in dire need of a new suit?
A slightly lower button stance, more at the natural waist level.

I am always making clothing for clients, so my own needs never get a look in.
alden
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Sat Dec 13, 2008 4:50 pm

Des

Somehow I completely missed your post of the Triple check suit. It looks great.

Cheers

Michael
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