Bespoke suits London - where to go next?

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Winot
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Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 9:13 pm
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Fri May 02, 2008 9:37 am

(Forgive the cross post with other forums but I am hoping to elicit the the maximum number of responses).

For some time now I have been buying bespoke suits from Graham Browne in the City of London, and as I have posted elsewhere I am very happy with the PQR of these. However I am now thinking of stepping up a level to Savile Row quality, and would appreciate your thoughts on (a) the gaps in my wardrobe and (b) where to go to fill these gaps.

I presently have the following work suits. I am a patent agent which although a legal profession doesn't require the same level of conservative formality as e.g. a City solicitor or investment banker.

Summer suits

French blue wool/mohair 2B SB (Graham Browne) – soon to commission a matching DB jacket
Grey windowpane 3B SB (Hackett)
Light brown windowpane 3B SB (Hackett)

Three season suits

Grey fresco 3B SB peak lapel (Graham Browne)
Brown fresco pinstripe 2B SB peak lapel (Graham Browne)
Charcoal grey sharkskin 1B SB peak lapel with DB waistcoat (Graham Browne)
Charcoal grey nailhead B SB (Adrian)

Winter suits

Light blue birdseye 3B SB peak lapel with SB waistcoat (Graham Browne)
Grey/brown herringbone/windowpane 6x2 DB (Graham Browne)

Suits on their way out

Grey birdseye 3B SB (Roderick Charles)
Blue pinstripe 3B SB (Roderick Charles)
Grey/blue pinstripe 3B SB (Andrew's Tailors)

I have been thinking that the next suit should be a winter suit and I am tempted by a grey flannel chalkstripe. I also think I am lacking a dark blue or navy suit and wonder about getting something lightweight for next summer, probably 3B SB notch.

Now – where to get them. I suspect my Graham Browne suits are moderately drapey in style and it seems logical to try one suit from either end of the scale to see what I like. I wondered therefore about getting one suit from Steven Hitchcock and one from Dege & Skinner.

My thinking as to Steven Hitchcock was that I'd like to try the soft tailoring approach but would rather not pay A&S prices. He is also young and so will be around for a good while (I hope) if I like his stuff. However from looking at his blog the SB jackets look to have quite closed quarters (in common with the A&S cut?) and I'm not a fan of this. I am tempted therefore to commission a DB suit from him. However part of me thinks I shouldn't start a relationship with a tailor if I don't like their SB suits! So you can see I am all confused – any advice?

As far as the military cut is concerned, my thinking was influenced by this post of Scott's in which the Dege jacket looks fantastic. However I am open to suggestions.

Another issue is that I really like the Italian look shown in the first photo here – but realistically I am unlikely to get to Italy to commission suits and I'm not sure I can stomach Rubinacci prices in London.

Over to you...

Confused of London.
ER
Posts: 44
Joined: Wed Dec 13, 2006 2:05 pm
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Fri May 02, 2008 4:43 pm

Soft tailoring without the A&S prices? Try Jonathan Quearney on Windmill Street.
Frog in Suit
Posts: 452
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:42 pm
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Fri May 02, 2008 6:16 pm

Military cut: try Meyer & Mortimer (Jones Chalk & Dawson), 6 Sackville Street. Very traditional shop, pleasant service, bespoke only, at the lower end of the SR price spectrum. I am very happy with what they have made for me (three DB suits so far, with another SB 3P, plus navy blazer and grey trousers on the way).
Frog in Suit
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