Fresco jacketings

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

manton
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Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:08 pm

I really hate tan/khakhi/wheat etc. in cotton for coats. I think it's an irrational prejudice, because cotton khaki is the ultimate trousering so it does not belong as a coat. I can recognize it as irrational, but I can't get past it.
iammatt
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Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:34 am

manton wrote:I really hate tan/khakhi/wheat etc. in cotton for coats. I think it's an irrational prejudice, because cotton khaki is the ultimate trousering so it does not belong as a coat. I can recognize it as irrational, but I can't get past it.
Weren't you wearing a khaki cotton suit when we had lunch in NY? You never break out the jacket?
manton
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Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:12 am

Olive, philistine!
luk-cha

Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:20 am

Batemen ogden said they have a Linen Cotton and wool blend range i have not seen it but maybe Des has this book and can post a few pictures
Wakefield
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Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:07 am

I am speaking from memory here so may well get this wrong but I think the Bateman range luk-cha is referring to is their 'Solaro' book. It contain some nice fabrics and some good bright colours which would look good in a high summer jacket.

Their 'fresco' book contains some very nice materials. They are light weight (8/9 oz). The patterns tend to be 'classic' and are more suited to suits. Off the top of my head, other than the obvious plain grey (several shades) and blues (mid to navy), I can only recall a dark blue with subtle glen check pattern which may be suitable for an odd jacket.

As I said, they are light weight but handle very well on the roll. I have had a suit made up for the summer in a grey chalkstripe with a half lined coat which I am waiting to try out. (I have actually worn it once already, out to dinner, and nearly froze to death walking from the car to restaurant so I can vouch for both its coolness and ventilation!) The material has made up very well and drapes nicely, despite the lack of weight. It also has a very smooth texture without any of the 'scratchiness' which people have mentioned in regard to other fresco type materials.

Batemans have also just introduced a new bunch of summer wieght jacketing materials. Whilst not as open a weave as fresco they do look to me like they would breathe well and have a range of patterns which are more suitable to an odd jacket.

Regards

GAH
uppercase
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Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:39 pm

Another pair I travel with are Lobb Lopez slip-ons. Very versatile, but they can't take a suit. If I need one pair to go with a suit AND a jacket reasonably well, I take a monk.
Yes!

I was thinking of slip ons as being the right all purpose shoe for traveling.

They can handle an odd jacket, certainly. They would fit the bill for casual wear, both during the day and evenings.

And I'd bet that if you stretch the rules a bit they'd work for suits, too!

I was thinking of a suede slip on with a rubber buttom as a travel shoe.

And the monk is an even better idea, perhaps also in suede. To wear with business and casual.

I find schlepping a heavy lace up, just too much and it's uses are limited to just business.

One shoe that I've found very versatile recently, though a bit casual, is the chukka, also in suede with a rubber sole. I found a very nice pair in Spain, reasonably priced, and I really got alot of use out of that style for many different purposes. Not to mention that the mocassin construction was great for taking long walks; very easy on the joints.

But I really like the idea of a slip on. I think that that is a style that is neglected, rarely discussed or even made up in bespoke but deserves some more attention.

I'm not familiar with the Lopez or other dressy slip ons....do you have some other recommendations to consider?
whittaker
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Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:29 pm

My general purpose travel shoe is the EG Kibworth in dark oak. It is fine for casual wear and if I am travelling to Europe I can get away with it with a non-pinstriped suit. I don't feel entirely comfortable but don't seem to draw inadvertent attention.
luk-cha

Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:11 am

i like the idea of a loafer/ slip on for travel i have been considering the C&J cordovan loafer for this very issue.

it is unlined so it is going to nice and light and the have it in #8 and whisky so great colors to chose too!

interesting to know that batemans have a new summer jacketing book out, Wakefeild can you remember the name of the book?
Wakefield
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 8:56 am

luk-cha

I was in there three weeks ago and the cloth had only just arrived and the hadn't made the books up yet. They were cutting the swatches so they may be ready now.

Regards

GAH
uppercase
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 4:41 pm

My general purpose travel shoe is the EG Kibworth in dark oak. It is fine for casual wear and if I am travelling to Europe I can get away with it with a non-pinstriped suit. I don't feel entirely comfortable but don't seem to draw inadvertent attention.
Are the Kibworth the ones with the gussets?
Chris Rimby
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 4:58 pm

uppercase wrote:
My general purpose travel shoe is the EG Kibworth in dark oak. It is fine for casual wear and if I am travelling to Europe I can get away with it with a non-pinstriped suit. I don't feel entirely comfortable but don't seem to draw inadvertent attention.
Are the Kibworth the ones with the gussets?
Yes.

Image
manton
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 5:23 pm

uppercase wrote:
I'm not familiar with the Lopez or other dressy slip ons....do you have some other recommendations to consider?
Lopez is the Lobb classic, characterized by the oval shaped cut in the vamp.

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Mine are tan, so they really cannot take a suit, (and, really, I don't think I would wear loafers with a suit no matter what the color), but otherwise they are very versatile. I wear them odd jackets -- tie and no tie -- all the time.

Lopez is one of the few models from the original Lobb RTW catalogue that they still make.

EG must have ten nice slip-on models (I confess I find them hard to tell apart) but I prefer Lobb Lopez to all of them.
sylax
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Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:15 am

I also have the dark brown Lopez. You may have a look at Weston for their 180 penny loafer in suede.

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And I agree with Manton, penny loafers cannot take a suit.
uppercase
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Fri Mar 21, 2008 3:09 pm

And I agree with Manton, penny loafers cannot take a suit.
Those 3 shoes pictured above are really very nice.

If the penny loafer cannot take a suit, then what slip-on can be worn with a suit.?

Certainly, dispensations can be made when traveling; plus I believe that slip-ons were regularly worn by good dressers in the past. The Duke was one of them, no?

To my mind, all 3 shoes - Lopez, Weston 180 and EG Kibworth - would work with suits, and certainly with a city-wear sports coat.....?
luk-cha

Fri Mar 21, 2008 3:29 pm

well just to keep this on track i have found these from a japanes site might be something worth investigating in the mean time!!
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these are all ether fresco's or linen, cotton wool and mohair blend all in the 250-300gms range
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