Sartorial heros

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

storeynicholas

Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:16 pm

Well, Balzac was a bit of a dresser - as Maupassant was an undresser. President Carnot of France was a swell and Maurice Chevalier natural and dashing. The last Kaiser was well turned out (in both senses). Louis Jordan also springs to mind. Rachmaninov and Stravinsky (Strav carried off an eyeglass very well) also. Tito was keen on his uniforms. Our Hanoverian and Saxe Coburg Gotha kings and princes were foreign and smart too. Louis Napoleon was fond of dressing and did it well. I am sure that there are many more which can be added.....
NJS
Guille
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:16 pm

NJS,

I wouldn't include Wilhelm II in the list, sory. In most of the photographs that I have seen of him he is wearing a pompous overdressed court dress of some sort. Not to mention that he was physically deformed due to complication in his birth. Furthermore, a man that is capable of wearing a helmet with a golden eagle on top as decoration cannot be included in the list of the most elegant men in the history of western civilization. This, in turn, brings me to another question: shouldn't we consider the possibility of including men who were elegant in dressing non-western clothes, say, arabic or far eastern (chinese/japanese) clothes?

By the way, I want to know your opinion on adding two men of the newer generation we were talking about before (both of the tall type, according the the IMDB, equally tall at 1.91cm each): Gregory Peck and Charlton Heston (although perhaps not quite heroes, and not always wearing suits, but elegant nevertheless).
storeynicholas

Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:28 pm

Only teasing about Kaiser Bill and Tito!
I don't see why we should be restricted to western clothes or heros - or even why we should confined to relatively modern times. For my part, I would accept the right of Gregory Peck and Charlton Heston to be in the current list.

Just reverting to the question of others outside the Anglo-American breeding pen - some of those mentioned of course, such as Astaire and Gable were of Austrian and German descent, as well as Brits of Polish descent such as Robert Donat (called Fritz until WWI). A couple of others that I would add to the list would be Robert Taylor and William Holden.
NJS
Gruto

Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:51 pm

At the moment, I think Cary Grant is the best dresser ever by far. I don't subscribe to the view that he is too perfect and all that. He might have been a perfectionist, but his performance - the image - is so full of ease and naturalness.

Let me quote the British critic David Thompson on Archie:

"One day, Hollywood will be remembered for a perilous line of smart sentiment, and Cary Grant will be known as its exemplar, just as Magritte's bowler-hatted straight man presides over dreams."

I've found this narrated by Michael Caine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPvmpS4HOpU

Concerning European super dressers, I find it hard to find some, who consistently display sublime style. Marcello is one of the best, I think, but he cannot compete with guys like CG:

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le.gentleman
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Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:18 pm

alden wrote:...

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On a positive note, for the first time in about 3 decades, an actor actually earned the "best actor" award at the Oscars. Thought that might not happen again...

Cheers
According to Wikipedia he went to Florence, Italy in order to become a shoemaker during his leave of absence. Does anybody have any details on that? Where did he become an apprentice (all I've read is that 'Laurencino' might have been it - but still, who is that?)
rjman
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Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:08 am

DDL was allegedly an apprentice at Bemer.

I think it's important to keep in mind that how certain actors were dressed by wardrobe -- or ordered to dress by their directors -- may not have been how they dressed in real life. By all accounts, Marcello M was a splendidly elegant dresser IRL.
alden
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Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:47 am

Yes DDL did apprentice with Bemer in Florence. I heard the story directly from Stefano. At one point after about a year of trying his hand at shoe making, Stefano allegedly took the actor aside and suggested he get back on stage where his talents were more manifest.
Gruto

Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:24 pm

A rare picture, I believe: Cary Grant in a pair of jeans and off duty. He does that well too, don't you think?.

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storeynicholas

Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:46 am

This CG picture looks like a family shot. Thank you for sharing it. A couple of others that are missing are: US diplomat A J Drexel Biddle - in his time some said the best dressed American and the Marquis de Vogue (the one who 'found' Dostoevsky).
NJS
alden
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Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:13 am

NJS,

Should include Monsieur Puccini on the list: musical genius, outdoorsman, indoorsman, Tuscan, …had the complete package.

Michael

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storeynicholas

Tue Mar 18, 2008 12:26 pm

The Puccini pictures are wonderful and he has to be in!! He is the epitome of insouciance. Edward Elgar is more controversial as a composer - but also always elegantly turned out.
NJS
Trey
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Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:14 pm

I agree that it is easier to find sartorial heroes from the past. I like the Sean Connery and Charlie Rose references as more modern examples of heroes. I would add Michael Douglas to that list - and not just for his uber greed is good lWall Street look.

Although this is controversial, Woody Allen has a unique style. Although his wardrobe is one dimensional he always dresses well for his persona. His "look" as the Woody Allen, which is his pseudonym, is no less of a statement to the world as to who Woody Allen is than Cary Grant's "look" was in making Cary Grant Cary Grant rather than Archie Leach.

I previously mentioned Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. I would add Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. to the list. Has anyone mentioned Clark Gable?

Trey
storeynicholas

Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:16 pm

Anyone have a picture of Charlie Rose? Michael Douglas - not sure - Al Pacino probably. I am certainly prepared to accept that Woody is as unique and stylish as Andy Warhol. Interestingly, vis a vis Cary Grant - Woody was once astonished to be asked for his autograph by ..... Cary Grant ...... who was himself so famous that, once, when staying in an hotel in his native Bristol, a room service waiter knocked on his door, CG opened it and the waiter, nearly dropping his tray, exclaimed "Jesus Christ!" - to which the answer came "No - Cary Grant". I think that the Fairbanks are on the list and Clark Gable we were previously undecided about because of his inconsistency. However, everyone seemed to call him the King of Hollywood and, just for GWTW, I think that he has to go on.
NJS
couch
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Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:03 am

Charlie now:

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Charlie then:


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The end titles on his show credit RLPL for his wardrobe. He certainly wears it with ease, to put it mildly. He's much less rumpled here than in the typical show. I think the late Bill Buckley was his model for interlocutory posture.
cuffthis
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Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:21 pm

I second the nomination for Ralph Lauren.

Ok, bring on the naysayers. :wink:
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