A vested interest

[darte]

I'm very partial to waistcoats. I think wearing one has a profoundly elegant effect (when the jacket is off). To me, belts and the inevitable shirting overhang break up the vertical line of one's figure. Without the vest, the body is bisected into shirt/tie and trousers, whereas the vest connects the two beautifully. Plus it's eminently practical as it keeps the tie from flapping around and drooping to the nether regions (an unsightly occurrence when one sits down) and covers braces (if you prefer). I think that under certain circumstances, one can leave the jacket at home and wear just a contrasting stand-alone vest. Enough gushing.
What I would be interested in knowing is what led to the disuse of waistcoats? Also, are there cities or communities or professions where waistcoats are more common? It's definitely not common on Wall Street (where any trace of them is vestigial). I recall that in London it was more common but not the norm.

[Concordia]

What I would be interested in knowing is what led to the disuse of waistcoats?

Almost certainly, central heating.

As an additional contributing factor, emulation of Hollywood stars and other denizens of sunny climates.

[Cordovan]

I agree. That is why many of the fabrics used today are not as heavy as they used to be (among other reasons of course though). I often find myself too hot even without a waistcoat, but do agree and feel that they are rather attractive and functional.

Cordovan

[Frog in Suit]

I'm very partial to waistcoats. I think wearing one has a profoundly elegant effect (when the jacket is off). To me, belts and the inevitable shirting overhang break up the vertical line of one's figure. Without the vest, the body is bisected into shirt/tie and trousers, whereas the vest connects the two beautifully. Plus it's eminently practical as it keeps the tie from flapping around and drooping to the nether regions (an unsightly occurrence when one sits down) and covers braces (if you prefer). I think that under certain circumstances, one can leave the jacket at home and wear just a contrasting stand-alone vest. Enough gushing.
What I would be interested in knowing is what led to the disuse of waistcoats? Also, are there cities or communities or professions where waistcoats are more common? It's definitely not common on Wall Street (where any trace of them is vestigial). I recall that in London it was more common but not the norm.

I would think that central heating has a lot to do with the decline in waistcoat wear. One cannot but hope that, with global warming, thermostats will be turned lower in future, and the waistcoat will make a comeback. Mr. Munday, my cutter at Meyer & Mortimer/Jones, Chalk & Dawson told me recently that he had cut many more waistcoats in the past year than previously. A harbinger of the return of the waistcoat? I for one will keep my fingers crossed. A SB coat without one looks incomplete, don’t you think?

Frog in Suit

[The Doctor]

I wear one 99% of the time with a suit, the odd 1% is when I haven't been able to get mine made up.

We use to get a free suit a year at A&S, so you always opted for a waistcoat and besides you could never go into the front shop without a jacket on, unless you wore a waistcoat.

I remember when Mr. Hallberry caught Mr. Mahon walking down the street without a jacket or a waistcoat, we still laugh about it now.

[Concordia]

I wear one 99% of the time with a suit, the odd 1% is when I haven't been able to get mine made up.

Being slim and fit may be a help, there. Do you also find that you run cool in warm weather?

[The Doctor]

I wear one 99% of the time with a suit, the odd 1% is when I haven't been able to get mine made up.

Being slim and fit may be a help, there. Do you also find that you run cool in warm weather?

Not so sure about the slim or the fit part these days, seems I'm letting all my suits out. Most places have air con but f it does get too hot, I'll take it off.

[Manself]

I know we high-minded Loungers exist beyond the influence of fashion but in the recent version of Casino Royale, in the very last scenes, Bond was wearing a three-piece suit, and I wonder if that might herald a return to the style. It's easy to blame practicality and fashion as if they were the same thing, but fashion's often far from practical - so perhaps there will be a trend for three piece suits. Odd waistcoats are certainly more popular now than they have been in years.

[WF]

Waistcoats have been fashionable with ladies and skinny indie boys over the last year or so. Perhaps refined gentlemen are reading NME and Look magazine on the sly?

[Doug]

The skills of a waistcoat making seem to have declined considerably along with decreased demand, and the difficulty of obtaining a really well tailored waistcoat has probably been a factor in the garment's decline, though not the major one. I have found that tailors struggle to get a proper waisted silhouette. They also frequently don't have a good feel for the button placement, angling of the bottom opening, and how to get the point lengths right. I'm a big fan of "long points," but to get it I need to have an old archival photo or illustration from the 30s-50s to use as the basis for working with a tailor.

[townie]

I agree that central heating, and frequently overheating, has a lot to do with the decline of waistcoat popularity. One other factor may be that of price, since a 3-piece is significantly more expensive than a 2-piece. Which brings me my first question: Why does the addition of a waistcoat add so much to the price of a suit? There is NO implied criticism here, just a request for information.

Second question: Have many, or any, members made use of odd waistcoats?

[darte]

The collective (and individual) erudition here is amazing. I'd therefore like to ask further if anyone can elaborate on the white undervest or lining that I noticed the current PoW wearing at this wedding to Camilla. What is it called? What is its function (other than adding an elegant touch)? (Sorry I don't know yet how to link to photos, but I hope someone will know what I'm referring to.)

[Doug]

It's called a slip, and is just a strip of cloth that buttons along the the edge of the waistcoat. In one of these fora there is a link to a site that shows the bottoning arrangement. I like the look.

[storeynicholas]

I agree that a SB coat looks incomplete without a waistcoat - sometimes, in the country a jumper. DB suits with waistcoats are pretty rare RTW and not many opt for one with bespoke DB coats; however, subject to temperature, it can look very good - but plain SB and without lapels.
NJS

[yachtie]

I agree that a SB coat looks incomplete without a waistcoat - sometimes, in the country a jumper. DB suits with waistcoats are pretty rare RTW and not many opt for one with bespoke DB coats; however, subject to temperature, it can look very good - but plain SB and without lapels.
NJS

I have to say, that in my opinion, nothing looks quite as smart as a well cut DB jacket with a waistcoat underneath. ( I'm wearing one now) . I'm not sure that central heating, or the lack of it, has much to do with the decline in the popularity of waistcoats. With the much lighter fabrics available, wearing a DB with a waistcoat is certainly not something to be avoided on temperature grounds, and a SB suit without a waistcoat really looks unfinished.
Additionally, no single garment so adds to the versatility of a suit as a waistcoat since it extends wearability of lighter clothed suits far past the warmest seasons.
I'm sure that the popularity of vests/waistcoats is purely on stylistic grounds- but with a minor monetary background ( it does cost more to have one than not, but not excessively so).