Kilgour changes hands

[eer40]

See article. I'd heard they were searching for further sources of capital. Does anyone have any further insight as to what this might mean?

http://www.wwd.com/issue/article/122624

[storeynicholas]

Seems pretty obvious what it means. Maybe they will merge with a neighbour who raised a similar question.

[eer40]

er... sorry, how is it obvious?

are you familiar with JMH and how they manage their investment in companies post-acquisition? Do they interfere in management, do they control operational decisions, change suppliers and contractors, exploit/dilute the brand, etc, or are they a completely passive investor who lets existing management run the show?

[Leitz Noctilux]

Hmmmmm

Sources estimated Kilgour commanded about 10 million pounds, or about $14.6 million at average exchange.

If they can get such a basic fact as the rate of exchange wrong, one might wonder what else might not be 100% correct?

[zegnamtl]

A quick glance that looks like a euro to dollar conversion,
a semi forgivable mistake, it may well have been a copy editor and not the writer to have made that conversion at the last minute before press time.

Hmmmmm

Sources estimated Kilgour commanded about 10 million pounds, or about $14.6 million at average exchange.

If they can get such a basic fact as the rate of exchange wrong, one might wonder what else might not be 100% correct?

[Bishop of Briggs]

I visited Kilgour recently and the RTW range did not impress. The quality, construction and cut of the RTW were very poor and the staff were ignorant and obnoxious. IMHO, Brandelli is a just an over-hyped poseur like Boateng and Richard James.

[Stylecounsel]

I visited Kilgour recently and the RTW range did not impress. The quality, construction and cut of the RTW were very poor and the staff were ignorant and obnoxious. IMHO, Brandelli is a just an over-hyped poseur like Boateng and Richard James.

Really? I guess that the cut is a matter of opinion, but I am interested as to why you think the quality and construction are very poor?

[sartorius]

I would agree with the earlier post about the quality of Kilgour's RTW line, at least in relation to shirts, ties and trousers (I have never bought one of their suits).

Some examples:

1. All the shirts I have bought have fused collar and cuffs which have "bubbled" after washing (I gather because the glue reacts to hot water). Bear in mind that these were shirts retailing at well over 100 sterling. The fit and cut are fine, and I like their designs, but the quality of the construction is frankly abominable for the price.

2. A woolen tie which I bought recently is impossible to tie in a four-in-hand (the thin end always prodrudes below the thick end), which is not a problem I have with any other brand. Also, the stitching at the back has come loose after only about 3 wears.

3. I bought some cotton trousers last summer and was assured by the guy who pinned the bottoms that they would be finished on a slant (i.e. the back being longer than the front). They were not - and since I had bought them for a specific reason (Henley Regatta, the following day) I had to accept them as they were.

4. Returns policy - the first time I went into the store and was about to buy a shirt, I asked them what their returns policy was. The guy behind the desk looked at me puzzled and then said something like "well, as long as you bring it back within 48 hours". Given that this was a Saturday afternoon and I work Monday - Friday, that didn't leave much flexibility!

IMO, Richard James offer better quality (although their buttons have a habit of coming untied far too easily) but they too are extremely expensive for what you get. Their newly launched RJ Bespoke line (which, for shirts, is actually just RTW) retail at over 200 sterling. The cloth is great, but for RTW the quality of the finishing simply does not justify the price - lots of loose threads and the like, which, when pointed out to their man in-store, was greated with a perfunctory (and franklly dismissive) "I'll let them know...".

[Bishop of Briggs]

The Kilgour shirts were terrible and the ties looked as if they had been made in a Far East sweat shop. The assistant offered me only one suit RTW suit block that was fashion forward. The suits were unlined and the finish was poor. The assistant, French or Italian I think, had an arrogant "take or leave it" attitude. I appreciate my H&K shirts, T&A ties and Huntsman and Chester Barrie RTW much more after my encounter with Brandelli's minimalist brand. Like the shops, the Kilgour quality and customer service is minimalist too.

[rjman]

IMO, Richard James offer better quality (although their buttons have a habit of coming untied far too easily) but they too are extremely expensive for what you get. Their newly launched RJ Bespoke line (which, for shirts, is actually just RTW) retail at over 200 sterling. The cloth is great, but for RTW the quality of the finishing simply does not justify the price - lots of loose threads and the like, which, when pointed out to their man in-store, was greated with a perfunctory (and franklly dismissive) "I'll let them know...".

Interesting post. As you note, Richard James has muddied the water with yet another RTW line, called "Bespoke" -- suits made in Italy for 1500 quid, expensive shirts which don't look to be of any better construction than his normal stuff, some ties... Ah well.

I never looked too hard at the Kilgour stuff. It's too bad it sounds flimsy. The starlight tweed ties and suits were beautiful.

[sartorius]

The starlight tweed ties and suits were beautiful.

I should stress that I do still (occasionally) shop at Kilgour because I love their designs, but the prices being charged for RTW shirts makes you realise what great value full bespoke now is. You can undoubtedly get full bespoke for considerably less than RTW, which is bizarre.

[storeynicholas]

It is generally bizarre but, for some time, there have been 'designer labels' selling RTW that costs more than fully bespoke from Mayfair or Jermyn St.

[Costi]

I suppose they are trying to pass the notion that there is more value in their design than in a bespoke garment. Which doesn't need many arguments for a logo worshiper.

[RWS]

. . . [T]he notion that there is more value in their design than in a bespoke garment. . . . doesn't need many arguments for a logo worshiper.

Touché, Costi!

[sartorius]

I gather that neither Richard James nor Carlo Brandelli have a tailoring background (RJ, I believe, trained as a photographer, and CB made his name in the 90s with an independent RTW store called Squire on Cork Street in London). So it is perhaps not surprising that RJ and Kilgour now seem to focus on style over substance.