LL best of both forward fitting

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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the tailor
Posts: 99
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Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:58 am

This is the second coat I have cut for a client from my allocation of the LL Best of Both.

This is at a forward stage for my client, and we agreed to alter nothing.

I did however cut the chest cleaner on this coat leaving only a very small amount of drape. I also opened the front quarters out more for him than on previous coats, I have put a small amount of wadding into the shoulder ends. Previous coats had nothing at all in the shoulders.

This fabric is stunning, well made and well balanced. My client is around 5'6"-5'7" tall, who says large checks don't suit shorter figures!!

I cant wait to make mine!

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alden
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Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:24 am

This fabric is stunning, well made and well balanced. My client is around 5'6"-5'7" tall, who says large checks don't suit shorter figures!!
I am pleased to hear your comments about the Best of Both. I have spoken with four tailors who have worked with the cloth and they find it of excellent quality. My own suit is due to be ready next month, and I am excited to see it as well.

The question regarding large checks is one of the dressing myths that never go away propagated by individuals who have never been in the same area code as a bespoke garment. Windsor was 5'2" and he wore large checks quite well. The tailor's hand has a lot to do with the final outcome and the coat you are making for your client looks excellent.

Cheers

Michael
RWS
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Sat Feb 16, 2008 3:47 pm

Very nice! The more-open quarters and (to my surprise) cleaner chest enhance this cloth, I think.
Cantabrigian
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Sun Feb 17, 2008 9:11 pm

The chest looks very nice.

The previous jackets must have had a good deal of drape since this one looks like it still has a decent amount.

Nice job!
Costi
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Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:14 pm

Handsome! Indeed, the chest appears to have a reasonable amount of drape. I can't discern too well (and the sleeves are not definitively set), but is there enough cloth over the shoulder blades and at the sleeve seam to match the drape in the chest?
Cufflink79
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Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:26 pm

Great looking jacket love the side vents, the silhouette is perfect.

It is everything I'd put into my own jacket. :)

Two button front I presume?

Also, how many buttons will be put on the sleeves?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
Chris Rimby
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:04 am

The fit and proportion are perfect. I'm glad you're my tailor!
the tailor
Posts: 99
Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:47 am
Location: England
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Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:48 am

Costi wrote:Handsome! Indeed, the chest appears to have a reasonable amount of drape. I can't discern too well (and the sleeves are not definitively set), but is there enough cloth over the shoulder blades and at the sleeve seam to match the drape in the chest?
Costi,

there is very little drape on the back, the armhole is very small, and sits in the correct position vertically and horizontally. Because of this I do not tend to cut much drape for the back of my jackets, there is no need.

The other thing to remember is that shoulder fullness provides room for the blades, you need to be good with the iron, but there is well over 1" of cloth that I have eased and shrunk into this shoulder.

Ask my client if his jackets are comfortable, he reads and occasionally comments on this forum and has had plenty of experiences with other tailors!
melia
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Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:57 am
Location: Bolton
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Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:35 pm

Hi, I am the guy in pics.

The jackets that Des has made for me are very comfortable, with no restriction of movement.
Because i am quite short, reasonably broad at the shoulders and far from skinny, it gives what i think is a great silhouette.

And thank you all for your kind comments.
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