Just 1 Day In London - Please Advise

[DonkeyHodee]

Gentlemen --

I shall be visiting the great city of London next week. I have never been in a position before now to contemplate custom clothing. I have spent not a few hours now reading various threads on the LondonLounge and am honored to be admitted to your ranks.

I have just 1 afternoon during my journey to call my own. I wonder if you'd be so kind as to point me in the right direction. Specifically, I want to obtain - finally - some shirts that are all my own.

I am a pastor in the midwest United States where the temperatures vary between 5-95 degrees (f) annually.

1) If you could choose just 1 shirt-maker, who would that be?
2) Specific guidelines you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
3) I'm giving serious thought to making an appointment at Turnbull & Asser to have measurements taken not only for shirts but perhaps also for a MTM suit (as the budget is limited for a man of the cloth - pun intended).

In your debt,

DonkeyHodee

[storeynicholas]

If you have one afternoon, you seem to have pin-pointed where to go. They will look after you. The Prince of Wales has their MTM suits (apparently) and gets shirts there. Ask about James Bond cuffs (cocktail cuffs) on the shirts, if you're going bespoke.

[RWS]

The choice is entirely yours, of course, but with limited funds I'd buy shirts (called bespoke but probably MTM) from Budd in London and MTM suits from an American maker (Southwick, perhaps, or Hickey Freeman, as they are better made for less money than British MTM, from what I hear).

[storeynicholas]

But he wants a memento of London! I am not sure why you say that Budd shirts are MTM because I have had shirts from there where I specified separate collars, number of buttons, tunic front and they observed a drop on one shoulder and they fit perfectly. I would second Budd here but if he has one afternoon, Budd won't do the suit.
NJS

[RWS]

But he wants a memento of London!

And on a limited budget. That's why I wrote that, were I the OP (and I am not, so the choice is of course his alone), I'd shepherd my funds: an American (he posts from the States) MTM suit and, with the savings, more shirts from Budd.

I am not sure why you say that Budd shirts are MTM . . . .

I wrote "probably MTM": I understood them to be bespoke, but Loungers much more knowledgeable than I (easily done on this subject) insist that the shirts are merely MTM. No matter to me, as each looks good, feels good, and incorporates all the points of design that I requested.

[storeynicholas]

It would be a brave man who suggested to the formidable Sarah Webster, the owner, or Mr Rowley, the manager, that Budd only did MTM. I know, for example, that they have made stiff-fronted boiled shirts for Edward Fox, the actor, for a stage production and they regularly make for people like John Hurt (another actor) and, downstairs, they have photos of the late - and very amusing - Terry-Thomas who would scarcely have gone MTM. They are well appreciated by the chairman of W S Foster & Son and Henry Maxwell and made for the late John Morgan, style guru of GQ and The Times (I remember reading that he had 300of their shirts). I recently asked them about their brochure (none) and website (what's that?) to be informed that: 'We are shirtmakers, sir'.
NJS

[dopey]

If you will only be in London for a week, I suggest you spend your time visiting as many of the shirtmakers and suitmakers as you can, but don't have expectations of getting a real bespoke product. That will take time and multiple visits, which you won't have. Instead, you might be able to do a stock special/MTM hybrid from Turnbull & Asser where you get the correctly sized collar, cuff and sleeve put on the right body. I suggest Turnbull & Asser over Budd because you are essentially buying a momento and the T&A shirtings are quite distinctive and will serve that purpose well.
As others have written, you will probably get best value for MTM suits in the US and you will be able to make sure it fits properly, which is the whole point. But that shouldn't stop you from soaking in the feeling in the Savile Row shops, and perhaps you will see something in RTW that they could have altered for you in your time frame.

[DonkeyHodee]

This is such very helpful information! I honestly hadn't considered MTM/hybrid as a possible option. Is this something that others have tried? If I were to contact them with this suggestion and an appointment request, do you think they'll be accommodating?

Many, many thanks, friends!

Pat Anders
aka DonkeyHodee

"I am I, DonkeyHodee, the Lord of La Mancha, my destiny calls and I go!"

[culverwood]

1) If you could choose just 1 shirt-maker, who would that be?

Sean O'Flynn, 7 Sackville Street (between Piccadilly and Savile Row )
http://www.seanoflynnshirtmaker.co.uk/

Though Budd are good too.

[andreyb]

I recently asked them about their brochure (none) and website (what's that?) to be informed that: 'We are shirtmakers, sir'.
NJS

That's a good one!

Another Buddism I read somewhere: "please don't mention Thomas Pink in this shop and certainly not in the same sentence with Budd".

Fellow Buddies, any other jokes of note that you remember?

Andrey

[Algernon]

I'd advise against a MTM suit from Turnbull's - the price will be in three figures in Sterling, and not far short of what a bespoke suit would cost. And as I understand it, Turnbull's suits are made by the same firm which makes MTM suits for the other places which offer that service on Jermyn Street (for considerably less).

Budd is wonderful. On my last visit Mr Rowley wished me 'compliments of the season' which pleased me a great deal.

Enjoy your visit,
A.

[Concordia]

Your first order of business should be to start at Piccadilly Circus. Walk up Sackville St, over to Savile Row, then each way on New Burlington St. Follow Old Burlington Street down to the Burlington Arcade, and then across Piccadilly to Jermyn Street. Walk the length of that street and you will have seen a lot. Then you can decide what to do in the second hour.

Depending on what part of the Midwest you hail from, you might want to start a relationship with a firm that visits Chicago (or St. Louis). Dege (10 Savile Row) has an excellent shirtmaker who travels to the US. You could get measured for a trial shirt, and if it was fine (or had only small changes required) get the rest of the order shipped to you. If there are big changes to be made, wait until the spring tour. Bob Whittaker is an excellent fitter.

Budd doesn't travel to the US, and Turnbull has retail presence in some cities where you might be able to get follow-up service. They do, however, make stock specials where you can specify everything except a non-standard cut.

Sean O'Flynn come to NY only.

Anyway, with only a day to spend, you are taking something of a risk with even a set of bespoke shirts. Getting a good stock special is likely your easiest route to satisfaction. I'd forget about suits altogether, unless you do find someone with whom you can hook up later for fittings.

If funds are available for souvenirs (but finite), you might want to budget for some ties. They are cruelly expensive at the best shops, but often very good and quite distinctive. Turnbull, yes, but also Emma Willis, New & Lingwood, or perhaps a bespoke version from Anderson & Sheppard. A half-dozen ties will cost less than a MTM suit, and fit you much better.

[JAS]

Might want to make an effort to contact Thomas Mahon as he travels stateside and is quite knowledgeable in all things S. Row. JAS

[rjman]

Might want to make an effort to contact Thomas Mahon as he travels stateside and is quite knowledgeable in all things S. Row. JAS

I don't think Tom is taking new customers.

[wegimental]

DonkeyHodee
(I love that "Nom de Guerre" - well done !) I add my vote to those who would have you visit Budd. They have been my exception to my own MTM rule. I suggest you pray for the pleasure of being assisted by Mr Rowley. They have another man there (on Mondays) who, is far less personable, hospitable and therefore IMHO, less British. I do hope your one afternoon & Mr. Rowley will coincide, for he is a chap of the first water.

If time allows, zip up to the Rubinaci sales room at 96 Mount St. (Marble Arch ). A visit there will re-define "awesome". Bon Voyage !