Bespoke OCBD?

[Concordia]

Does anyone know of a shirtmaker who can replicate the magic of the Brooks Brothers collar on a shirt that fits and is well-made?

I'm guessing the NYC firms have an edge here, but would welcome any input.

[Cantabrigian]

I don't remember the old Brooks collar.

I have gotten some of their MTM OCBDs and like them but, again, can't attest to the authenticity.

I have my first bespoke BD on order now and have just contacted Mercer & Sons about sourcing some decent OC.

[Concordia]

The Brooks Digital Tailoring BDs are not too bad, but getting expensive for the make and fit. I recently found an old MTM (one-off on some sort of promotion) that is actually a bit better. Still, if I can get good fit, wider selection of fabric, and good buttons without missing out on the essence of the rolled BD collar, I'd think about spending a little extra.

Mercer sounds great, but their standard shirts at my collar size will fit like tents. They'll adapt a slightly smaller body and taper it down, but it will be a bit wider than what I can get Brooks to do, and wider still than my best-fitting shirts.

[oldog/oldtrix]

As far as I am concerned, Fred set the standard for wearing BDs. His were from Brooks Bros, and he didn't seem to mind more than a bit of fullness, so why should it bother me?

http://members.isp01.net/hfsears/imAsta ... erta19.jpg

[masterfred]

As far as I am concerned, Fred set the standard for wearing BDs. His were from Brooks Bros, and he didn't seem to mind more than a bit of fullness, so why should it bother me?

http://members.isp01.net/hfsears/imAsta ... erta19.jpg

And they certainly were a better visual complement to his full-cut trousers than the drainpipe flat fronts they were paired with at BB of ye olden days.

[leiter]

Hamilton in Houston (at the store, as opposed to the mail order service) does a fine bespoke OCBD. http://www.hamiltonshirts.com/

Since moving to Houston, I have become a very happy customer. They are MUCH better and more reliable than my previous London-based shirtmaker. I still have and wear several Brooks Brothers button downs; I've never tried to have those made bespoke other than by Hamilton.

[Cantabrigian]

The Brooks Digital Tailoring BDs are not too bad, but getting expensive for the make and fit. I recently found an old MTM (one-off on some sort of promotion) that is actually a bit better. Still, if I can get good fit, wider selection of fabric, and good buttons without missing out on the essence of the rolled BD collar, I'd think about spending a little extra.

Mercer sounds great, but their standard shirts at my collar size will fit like tents. They'll adapt a slightly smaller body and taper it down, but it will be a bit wider than what I can get Brooks to do, and wider still than my best-fitting shirts.

The only complaint I have w/ Brooks MTM (not digital tailoring) is the price. The fit is good for a sports shirt and the construction is okay.

But for 150 (which is what the MTM OCBDs start at now IIRC) I think you can do better.

[manton]

Concordia:

I recently asked Geneva to make me an OCBD using their torso/sleeve pattern for me, while copying the collar from an '80s era BB shirt I have. I haven't taken delivery yet. I'll let you know.