Camps De Luca clip (in French)

[Jackson]

I came across this video clip (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x219hj ... t_creation) covering the Parisian tailoring house of Camps De Luca. It originally aired on TF1. As there's not much info on many of the Parisian tailors I thought it may interest some.

Also shown are participants from L’Association pour la Formation des Tailleurs (http://www.ecoledestailleurs.com/1.aspx) which is run by la Fédération Nationale des Maîtres-Tailleurs de France.

[zegnamtl]

Did I see correctly,
the school is teaching these young tailors to blind stitch the lapels as opposed to hand sewing!

[schneidergott]

About the blindstitch:

It's not the lapel, I guess it's the under-collar, for that piece is too small and she is not bending it, so it would roll when correctly done.
This special machine saves a lot of time(and money), but they are rather expensive, so not every tailor(in the past, most of them worked on their own) could afford one and had to do the padding by hand. It's not a big difference in look, touch or quality, it's just not as exclusive as handpadded lapels. If correctly adjusted, you would not know the difference when the coat is finished! Still, a handpadded lapel looks better at second fitting. It's hard and boring work to do several hundred stitches, which must not show on the outside, (a very difficult task with thin and crisp cloths).
But it's good to see, that they still teach young people our profession, and I am sure they learn the hand-padding as well!


SG

[zegnamtl]

About the blindstitch:

It's not the lapel, I guess it's the under-collar, for that piece is too small and she is not bending it, so it would roll when correctly done.

This special machine saves a lot of time(and money),

but they are rather expensive, so not every tailor(in the past, most of them worked on their own) could afford one and had to do the padding by hand.

It's not a big difference in look, touch or quality, it's just not as exclusive as handpadded lapels.


If correctly adjusted, you would not know the difference when the coat is finished!
Still, a handpadded lapel looks better at second fitting.

It's hard and boring work to do several hundred stitches, which must not show on the outside, (a very difficult task with thin and crisp cloths).
But it's good to see, that they still teach young people our profession, and I am sure they learn the hand-padding as well!

SG

I suppose it could also be the collar, for the split second that the frame shows in the video, it is tough to say.

Either way, I am not as adamantly opposed to the blind stitcher as some.
I have recently seen it used well and used poorly, like much I guess, it lies in the hands of the tailor. I sat with a few tailors on this very subject recently, and they echoed your words above exactly!

[Ramil]

About the blindstitch:

It's not the lapel, I guess it's the under-collar, for that piece is too small and she is not bending it, so it would roll when correctly done.
This special machine saves a lot of time(and money), but they are rather expensive, so not every tailor(in the past, most of them worked on their own) could afford one and had to do the padding by hand. It's not a big difference in look, touch or quality, it's just not as exclusive as handpadded lapels. If correctly adjusted, you would not know the difference when the coat is finished! Still, a handpadded lapel looks better at second fitting. It's hard and boring work to do several hundred stitches, which must not show on the outside, (a very difficult task with thin and crisp cloths).
But it's good to see, that they still teach young people our profession, and I am sure they learn the hand-padding as well!


SG

Yes this is under collar(You're Right ).But i have another question.The first cutter appear on the screen with laid down front of the jacket,look on the back pants,it laid down upside down to the front ,this is another mistake in this clip,custom made jacket must be cut all in one direction.Or you'll have different shade of the pants and the jacket.

[alden]

Camps De Luca is the real thing. Mark De Luca is carrying on the tradition of making fine clothes started by his father, a Neapolitan immigant who worked at many of the fine tailoring houses before starting his own operation. You may like or dislike the style of the clothes, but they are well made.

The director of the tailoring school referenced above has an established tailoring business in Paris. It is not surprising to me that they are teaching semi-industrial methods in this school (now closed.) I can remember visiting his shop one day. The suits, as is common in Paris today, were just about all machine made with a significant amount of beautiful hand detailing on the interiors, buttons holes etc. When I asked the tailor if he sewed the armhole by hand, he responded confidently that "no one in the tailoring world attaches sleeves or armholes by hand anymore." I responded that every piece in my rather significant collection would argue that point, as they are all hand sewn. He insisted to me that hand sewing was a thing of the distant past, and the earth is flat. I removed my coat and showed it to him. He thought it an interesting curiousity but returned to his fundamental premise, while holding an example in his hand. "that such things no longer exist." Suffice it to say to be polite in the face of all too typical French open mindedness, we agreed to disagree.

[alden]

Here are a few pictures of Marc Deluca and son in their elegant quarters near Place de la Madeleine.

[schneidergott]

SG[/quote]Yes this is under collar(You're Right ).But i have another question.The first cutter appear on the screen with laid down front of the jacket,look on the back pants,it laid down upside down to the front ,this is another mistake in this clip,custom made jacket must be cut all in one direction.Or you'll have different shade of the pants and the jacket.[/quote]

Well, not all fabrics have what is called "Strich" in german. Most (crisp) materials can be cut in both directions without problems. Exceptions are velvet like fabrics( that includes corduroy) and all fabrics which are brushed in one direction.
But although it's not a mistake, the pieces should all be cut in one direction. The main reason why it is not done in general is to save fabric!

SG

[Kuro]

Marc de Luca in action: http://www.youtube.com/user/bespokeFR#p ... BKHir7CZFg

[Kuro]

a bunch of videos: http://www.ruedesexperts.com/expert/video/56

[Wasser50]

Sorry did not mean to start a new thread, as my post earlier does anyone have directl experience of their work as I would like to use a non English tailor for my next commission.

Thanks wasser