Dormueil "Tonik" DB

[yachtie]

At long last (in time for summer) here're photos of my summer mohair DB:







This cloth is 90% kid mohair, 10% wool.

[Cufflink79]

Dear Yachtie:

That is a very nice looking suit.

It is hard to tell from the photo, did you get working cuffs on your jacket?

Also it looks like your shirt is blue, and the tie yellow, am I correct?

I like the height of the side vents, and the width the lapels.

Hey even the yard looks great as well.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[yachtie]

Dear Yachtie:

That is a very nice looking suit.

It is hard to tell from the photo, did you get working cuffs on your jacket?

Also it looks like your shirt is blue, and the tie yellow, am I correct?

I like the height of the side vents, and the width the lapels.

Hey even the yard looks great as well.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

Cufflink- yes, blue struped shirt and gold/yellow/blue tie. My tailor wants me to wear the suit a few times before he cuts the cuff buttonholes to make sure I like the sleeve length.

Thanks!

[kirsch]

cool...I like those wide lapels. who made the suit?

I also like the port-a-potty in the background

[angelo]

Yachtie,
fantastic fabric. Some suggestions: at least ,in my opinion , both the jacket and the trousers seem too long. This is apparent mainly from the back and the lateral views. Few modifications will make Your suit perfect..

[yachtie]

Yachtie,
fantastic fabric. Some suggestions: at least ,in my opinion , both the jacket and the trousers seem too long. This is apparent mainly from the back and the lateral views. Few modifications will make Your suit perfect..

The jacket length is as I asked for it - I wear my DB jackets on the long side. As for the trousers, I need to adjust my braces for these. Thanks for the comments!

cool...I like those wide lapels. who made the suit?

I also like the port-a-potty in the background

Chris Despos is the tailor and as for the porta-potty, well umm.

[JamesT1]

Looks great. The waist on the coat looks especially nice.

[zjpj]

I like the silhouette very much, though I agree on the length issues raised above.

[Cufflink79]

As for the trousers, I need to adjust my braces for these.

Could you show us some photos of the trousers with the jacket off.

Would like to see what kind of waistband you have done.

Thanks

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[yachtie]

[quote="Cufflink79] Would like to see what kind of waistband you have done.

Thanks

Best Regards,

Cufflink79[/quote]

Not much to see, it's a plain waistband- no adjusters. I think i'm going to go with a higher waist with a fishtail back for the next one.

[Will]

Not much to see, it's a plain waistband- no adjusters. I think i'm going to go with a higher waist with a fishtail back for the next one.

If you'll be wearing them with braces, consider having tabs added to the back of these trousers to make them the same height as a fishback. Else, when your trouser backs are at different heights, you'll need to adjust your braces every morning. Or forget, and have cuffs dragging on the ground.

[manton]

I love that cloth, but it's frightfully expensive.

[Costi]

Mohair is not easy to work with.
I like the chest & lapels particularly. I agree with angelo & others on the length of the coat (assuming the trousers will ride higher once the braces are adjusted). It is more a matter of proportion than of length. Especially with DB coats that have closed fronts and show no trouser above the skirt, thus making the legs appear shorter. Given the position of the last row of buttons, that of the pockets (I like the fact they are not low) and the height of he vents, I think the coat could be shortened a bit without affecting its overall balance; of course, if you choose to.
The coat's sleeve length looks about right, perhaps it's the shirt cuff that's tight or the shirt sleeve doesn't allow it to come all the way down.
The suit must feel quite cool and airy - have you asked for self-facings, or normal lining? Are the trouses lined? I like mohair very much in summer (it doesn't wrinkle too much, hardly any ironing requried, cool if the weave is right). It is a bit scratchy on the legs if the trouses are unlined, but they are so much cooler this way.

[yachtie]

The coat conventionally lined with Bemberg. It's still quite "airy" in that I can feel a breeze through it. The sleeve length is fine - the cuffs were riding up a little bit. Personally, I think most DB's are cut too short for my taste. There may be some foreshortening due to the camera angle, but the jacket sits pretty much where I like it. If anything, I wouldn't shorten it more than 3/4". The trousers are lined in the front to the knee. I haven't found the cloth to be scratchy although it obviously doesn't feel like wool.
I need higher vents because I leave the coat buttoned when I sit and that's worked out quite well.

[smoothjazzone]

In tailored clothing land, thats a mile

Nice suit -- love the fabric

I have a suit from a different fabric in the same bunch with lower mohair content

BTW, given the high mohair content, you could have done the sleeves unlined

I wouldn't shorten it more than 3/4".