Raglan sleeves on a double breasted overcoat?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Post Reply
gefinzi
Posts: 21
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 9:14 pm
Contact:

Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:29 am

What do you guys think of this overcoat?

I love everything about it, except I'm not sure about the shoulders. Raglan sleeves with a double-breasted raincoat, no problem. Raglan sleeves with a double-breasted topcoat/overcoat, I'm not sure. Thoughts?

Anyone seen that fantastic fabric for sale?

Picture can be seen on this thread at Style Forum:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=37759
Baron Kurtz
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 2:24 pm
Location: London
Contact:

Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:42 am

gefinzi wrote:
Picture can be seen on this thread at Style Forum:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=37759
That image is only available to SF members. As a non-member i cannot see it. Any chance you could post it here?

I have no problem in general with raglan sleeves on overcoats, but i think i've only ever seen SB examples.

bk
JamesT1
Posts: 151
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:09 pm
Contact:

Sat Jun 16, 2007 7:35 pm

Baron Kurtz wrote: That image is only available to SF members. As a non-member i cannot see it. Any chance you could post it here?

bk
Image

Am I the only one that would consider getting a suit (or at least a waistcoat) out of this fabric?
Baron Kurtz
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 2:24 pm
Location: London
Contact:

Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:42 pm

Thanks for posting the picture, JamesT1.

Re: the fabric. A little loud for my taste for suit, but all power to you if you can pull it off. I seem to recall a picture of the Duke in something similar. Maybe in one of Flusser's books? perhaps his had more of a flecked check?

bk
edhayes
Posts: 185
Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 10:18 pm
Contact:

Sat Jun 16, 2007 10:09 pm

suit might be tough, waistcoat-why not? top coat for sure
gefinzi
Posts: 21
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 9:14 pm
Contact:

Sun Jun 17, 2007 5:01 pm

My thanks to JamesT1 as well for posting the picture.

There is a picture of the Duke wearing a navy suit with a bold windowpane. I don't recall if it is one of Flusser's books...I have several books on the Duke at home as well as the two volume catalog of the auction for the Duke and Duchess's estate several years ago and I've run across it more than once.

I have many bold windowpane suits but I'm not sure if I would do it with this fabric. I would love to have the overcoat, however.

So back to the original questions, 1) do the raglan sleeves work here or would you prefer a traditional sleeve with the double-breasted front and 2) has anyone seen this fabric for sale?
alden
Posts: 8209
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
Contact:

Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:50 pm

1. A set shoulder works better on a DB overcoat.

2. There are some fabrics that are similar, but not one exactly the same. I am studying an overcoat fabric for the Cloth Club and would always prefer earth colors for a raglan overcoat in the way one would choose brown or green tweed for a country coat.
gigi
Posts: 18
Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:08 am
Contact:

Sun Jun 17, 2007 7:01 pm

I believe this lovely coat was made by Maestro Panico. He seems to enjoy a sterling reputation among the cognoscenti. Any comments or personal experiences?
iammatt
Posts: 320
Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2005 9:09 pm
Contact:

Sun Jun 17, 2007 7:09 pm

gigi wrote:I believe this lovely coat was made by Maestro Panico. He seems to enjoy a sterling reputation among the cognoscenti. Any comments or personal experiences?
I have never met him, but have also heard good things from people who have.

I think the coat is interesting, but in my part of the world, the overcoat is a once or twice a year piece, so this probably would not be my choice.
alden
Posts: 8209
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
Contact:

Sun Jun 17, 2007 7:19 pm

This overcoat fabric is an example:

Image

Image
alden
Posts: 8209
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
Contact:

Sun Jun 17, 2007 7:53 pm

There are some pretty fundamental "dressing" errors depicted in this slide but the choice of earth colors show better on the left. The man on the right is dressed for the city, complete with brolly and bowler, but with a grey overcoat that is neither city or country.

Image

The fellow on the left has the colors right for the country, but has a conflict running in the patterns of his overcoat and suit. The combination does not work, it blurrs ie there is not a distinct contrast between the two garments patterns.
gefinzi
Posts: 21
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 9:14 pm
Contact:

Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:28 pm

alden wrote:1. A set shoulder works better on a DB overcoat.

2. There are some fabrics that are similar, but not one exactly the same. I am studying an overcoat fabric for the Cloth Club and would always prefer earth colors for a raglan overcoat in the way one would choose brown or green tweed for a country coat.

It is my impression a set shoulder works better, too. However the longer I look at the coat the more intrigued I am by the raglan shoulders, especially when the fabric is casual rather than formal. I have a nice medium gray wool with beige windowpane and I'm trying to decide how to use it.

I agree the the brown coats in the illustrations are lovely and I would be excited if you had a corresponding fabric made for cloth club.
alden
Posts: 8209
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
Contact:

Mon Jun 18, 2007 2:30 pm

It is interesting to see how many brown overcoats are seen in the AA illustrations. It is a hard thing to find these days: a dark brown twill of about 600 gms. What are your thoughts?

Image

Image

Image

Image
Concordia
Posts: 2631
Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2005 3:58 am
Contact:

Mon Jun 18, 2007 2:46 pm

alden wrote:It is interesting to see how many brown overcoats are seen in the AA illustrations. It is a hard thing to find these days: a dark brown twill of about 600 gms. What are your thoughts?
Pure twill (as in "cavalry") is probably not the venue for dark brown. But a slightly tweedy thing with some other color buried in the diagonal could be nice.
alden
Posts: 8209
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
Contact:

Mon Jun 18, 2007 2:56 pm

In these illustrations we have three twills, a herringbone and a diamond weave. I think the mottled dark/light brown twill or herringbone (a tweedy thing) is very handsome.
Post Reply
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests