Sharkskin suitings

[WillB]

Hello Everyone -

This is my inaugural post to the forum and to the membership, so here goes. A bit about me. I guess I'm now approaching my mid-40s and survived 10 years of business casual and still look back in bemusement about what we were thinking of. I'm a consultant by profession (valuation) and decided to return to suits and odd jackets for my daily wear. I'm glad I did - not so sure my younger staff appreciates it, but they'll learn

As a first "toe in the water" on the way to bespoke, I've found a made-to-measure style that I like very much and want to do it in a sharkskin. It's the house style of a well known Southern California men's store with locations Pasadena and BH (guess who). I've found a shark I like in the H&S Target Collection (which they sell out of), but want to consider some alternatives.

After doing a little research here, I like some of the sharkskin/P&P offerings from Smith and Wain Shiell - 11 or 12oz. However, I think I need to see some swatches live in order to get a better feel. If I can find source for books of either, I think I can talk the store into doing it - they were open to Lesser, so I'm guessing they can do the same with these two.

So my question is, is anyone aware of either online and SoCal located sources where I could see them or even purchase, if necessary? If I was able to purchase the fabric, how much would I need for a jacket w/two pairs of trousers? It's all a little new to me, so I'm not sure where to start. I would hope I could see the fabric, decide what I wanted, and then point the store it - unless it's less expensive for me to source it and then have them do it. I believe the suit will be made Samuelsohn even though the pattern is the store's.

Any help or guidance is appreciated. And it's great to find a community of people with the same sartorial craziness that has overtaken me. Thanks for having me.

[manton]

Jodek is Lesser's US distributor, and they are located in Beverley Hills. I've never been to their office, but I imagine that if you called and said you wanted to look at swatches so that you could give your clothier a cloth number for an order, they would accomodate you. Or you could simply suggest to Carrol & Co. that they contact Jodek directly and ask for a set of Lesser swatch books.

[Mark Seitelman]

You should have your retailer get the swatch books for you from the USA distributor because most distributors don't deal with the public.

[WillB]

Thanks Mark and Manton.

Indeed, Jodek has been kind enough to offer the opportunity to peruse Lesser fabric at their offices in Beverly Hills if I was having trouble finding what I wanted. Their suggestion was that Carroll (or any tailor I used) could order direct from them once I figured out what I wanted. In fact, Carroll has been able to gather a few Lesser samples but it wasn't a full book by any stretch.

I was curious about Smith in particular after searching LL for sharkskins. From the pics I've seen, it looks like their sharks had a little more surface interest than Lesser's. And my curiosity was peaked. So I was curious if we knew if anyone in town carried the Smith books. But it looks like I'll need to work with my guys at Carroll - who have been great btw - to find some Smith samples.

Any ideas on who the US distributor for Smith is?

Thanks again.

[manton]

The Smith distributor is Isles Textiles in Long Island, NY. I don't know who, if anyone, has the books in LA.

[Mark Seitelman]

I believe that Isles Textiles of Long Island, New York, is the exclusive agent for Smith's and a couple of other British lines. Isles has some USA exclusive agency agreements with some and with others its agency is territorial, such as the northeast.

I believe that Isles is also the agent for Dugdale which produces very traditional suitings.

The number is 800-447-7682. If you speak to Stanley Cohen or Christine you can mention my name. Again, they prefer dealing direct with the retailer, therefore, they might want Carroll to make the arrangements.

Incidentally, I believe that Jodek is a territorial agent for Scofield and Smith and a few other lines.

[Mark Seitelman]

Incidentally, WillB, please tell us about the MTM that Carroll is making for you.

Is it from one of the national lines, such as Oxxford or Southwick? Or is it CMT for Carroll?

Carroll & Co. is a lovely store.

[Concordia]

Thanks Mark and Manton.

I was curious about Smith in particular after searching LL for sharkskins. From the pics I've seen, it looks like their sharks had a little more surface interest than Lesser's. And my curiosity was piqued.

It's my observation that, on average, Smith's sharkskin/p&p samples are a little less urban than Lesser's-- slightly more texture and variation of color. They also have some nice blues, which is not a thoroughly normal choice, in their Conoisseur book (11/12oz). The 14oz book (Steadfast, I think) has some stunning mid and dark greys.

Oh, and in a pinch, Smiths wil mail samples direct from London. I just got the entire Whole Fleece line sent that way.

[WillB]

Great ideas from everyone. Thanks to all.

Mark - Thanks for the reference to Isles. I also had no idea Jodek was a territorial rep for Smith. I'll see what I can come up with. The suit I'm doing is Carroll's house style and is called the Connaught. My understanding is it's the same model and name that was produced by Chester Barrie for Carroll pre CB implosion. Somehow Carroll ended up with the pattern and has worked something out with Samuelsohn to do the manufacturing. I've heard slightly different versions of the story, so who knows.

It's very British, with high armholes, some shoulder, and modest waist suppression - it looks Poole'ish to me. I'm moderately tall and lean with shoulders, and I just flat out liked the cut. Fit-wise, Master Tailor John Pappas (of The Andover Shop in San Marino fame) will do the measuring so I'm in good hands there - plus we're alums of the same school (although way before me) - not that that means anything . Some Oxxford styles look great on me, others look ghastly. I have the basics covered, so it was time to do something different. Pretty hard to do "urban" in Southern California, hence my attraction to Smith.