I wanted to start a discussion thread on different house styles on Savile Row. In particular, I wanted to ask if anyone has tried Henry Poole before.
If so, what are your thoughts on the tailor?
I have tried a number of tailors on the Row, with differing degrees of success. Like many LL members, I am a big fan of the drape style (and its associated softness) - particularly of Anderson & Sheppard. I have tried other houses (Huntsman - a la Richard Anderson, Kilgour) and have found the house styles a bit too stiff for my liking.
Henry Poole - one of the oldest tailors on the Row - appears to be a mix between the soft drape of A&S, and the structure and precision of Huntsman. While I am not a fan of the latter, I have seen pictures of Poole's work and find it irreproachable. I believe there was an article not too long ago in Men's Vogue on their work (they dress the Roses' in NYC). What impressed me was the lived in quality and old world feel of the clothes. These clothes do not scream for attention - there is a subtle and vintage quality to them that shows immaculate taste. Distinction and self-confidence are the key words - these are not the clothes of a parvenu. An English sort of sprezzatura?
Anyhow, those are superficial impressions, but I was wondering whether anybody had first hand experience they would like to share...
Angus Cundey dressed by his own firm:
http://bp1.blogger.com/_qjpwnPW4c1o/Rdi ... h/Eng1.jpg
Thoughts on Henry Poole
There are several of us on the LL that use Poole, including myself. I can recommend them. They are very professional and fairly easy to work with. Unlike some other tailors, there are no price games and no chance that they will disappear with your deposit. Although I am not an expert, I find the workmanship to be excellent.
Yes, as Bry says they are as solid as they come. Simon and his father have the unenviable task of keeping the storied firm viable in the current extremely challenging economic environmnent, and so far seem to have struck the delicate balance successfully. By SR standards Poole has always prided itself on accommodating the stylistic preferences of its clients (much more flexible than Huntsman or A&S as to cut). I can attest to this, though there are limits. I have with some explanation succeeded in getting my cutter/coatmaker to make a suit coat with a 3-roll-to-2.5 configuration and deeper-than-normal-SR forward pleats. Daks-back suit trousers no problem. They prefer minimal shoulder padding and a high gorge (my choices also), but will be flexible, as also with sleeve-head treatment. They will not cut a suit coat with quarters as open as a Neapolitan tailor will. Their house buttons have two holes, though they are happy to use 4-hole buttons if you prefer (as I do on town suits), and they have a house stripe for sleeve and trouser waist linings.
In all a traditional, understated approach that can be inflected slightly toward the elegant or dashing with client participation. Not afraid of unique projects. About the middle of the SR price range, with vests representing particularly good value (if that term has any meaning for Americans in the SR context). I believe Smoothjazz has said in another thread that his Poole trousers are the best that have been cut for him to date.
In addition to a new web site, their premises at no. 15 have recently been renovated, after they secured a rare new 15-year lease. Looking forward to paying a visit in June.
This suit from their web site is a very accurate representation of Poole's default cut, with the exception that the pinning makes the quarters look slightly more open than they would on the body. The general impression of solidity in the body can be negotiated (details of canvas, drape, shoulder width, etc.) and indeed I have done so.
In all a traditional, understated approach that can be inflected slightly toward the elegant or dashing with client participation. Not afraid of unique projects. About the middle of the SR price range, with vests representing particularly good value (if that term has any meaning for Americans in the SR context). I believe Smoothjazz has said in another thread that his Poole trousers are the best that have been cut for him to date.
In addition to a new web site, their premises at no. 15 have recently been renovated, after they secured a rare new 15-year lease. Looking forward to paying a visit in June.
This suit from their web site is a very accurate representation of Poole's default cut, with the exception that the pinning makes the quarters look slightly more open than they would on the body. The general impression of solidity in the body can be negotiated (details of canvas, drape, shoulder width, etc.) and indeed I have done so.
And what price should one expect for a suit from Henry Poole ?
I have used Poole for my last seven or eight suits, with great success. They will be in my area next week. If I schedule an appointment, I will check on current pricing.
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I concur with everything bry2000 said, and would add that, from personal experience, they are a pleasure to deal with in after-sales care matters as well.
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