White Tie and loose bits

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Nil Ab
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Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:02 pm

Gentlemen

I have inherited a beautiful set of white tie, studs and bow tie not included. The jacket, to my delight, fits me perfectly while the trousers require a bit of adjustment. I do, however, have a quiery to make. Is there any chance of finding a full set of studs, consisting of cuff links and the studs for the shirt, waistcoat and collar? It does not have to be new. I would like a reasonable quality; silver would definately be preferable for the metal.
Fifteen years old and attending what would be the equivalent of the upper secondary school in the UK, my budget does not allow much slack. Would it be possible to find it on Ebay? It might seem slightly silly to have a set imported to Europe from America where most items seem to be listed. Also, can one count on recieving what one has paid for when buying from an unknown person through Ebay?

You have been thanked in advance.

NA
Orgetorix
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Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:49 pm

I have often seen on Ebay sets that include cufflinks and shirt studs; less common are sets that also have waistcoat studs. I don't remember seeing any sets that included collar studs, but then, I haven't done a tremendous amount of searching.

Krementz was a big maker of links and studs back in the day; you might have some luck if you search for that brand. I've seen a number sets made from mother of pearl in nice cases made by Krementz.

The sets that include waistcoat studs are rarer and therefore usually go for more money on Ebay. I've seen them as low as $30-40, if memory serves, but they're usually more.
Rudolf
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Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:52 pm

I definitely have to agree to the previous commentary.
However, I somehow collect those stud sets and can tell you that you will hardly find anything in a decent quality (silver or even low-karat gold) for little money. Platinum sets are hugely expensive, they sometimes sport jewels like sapphires or even diamonds.
Krementz made very nice sets in the 1930s, they were delivered in a shell-shaped box. Small sets hat 3 studs and 2 (double-sided chain-)cufflinks, the big ones add 4 vest buttons.
Krementz produced them in varuous metals, usually gold-plated or (white) gold-filled. The better american company definitely is Larter. Here you will find stud sets in 14k gold and platinum.
English sets of the 1920s/30s may look even more attractive but if not supplied by a renowned jeweler and in precious metal, they were made quite cheaply and just had 2 studs. Look for Stratton sets from the 1950s, they are rather cheap but usually lack the vest buttons.
Collar studs were made in a fancy fashion before the early 1900s. Those collar studs which are used from 1920s until today are simple mother-of-pearl buttons with a gilt mount of which the head can be tilted. You can find those by the 100s at fleamarkets or at ebay for ittle money.
If you want, I can go through my collection and find a set for you...
All the best, Rudolf
Noble Savage
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Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:27 pm

The above two posters are right on. The reason most sets are in America, is because, as books of the time suggest, it was an American custom to wear matching sets.

Emily Post, in Etiquette (1922), notes:
Waistcoat buttons, studs and cuff links, worn in sets, is an American custom that is permissible. Both waistcoat buttons and cuff links may be jewelled and valuable, but they must not have big precious stones or be conspicuous.
We can suppose that idea that matching sets were a requirement was promoted by jewelers at the time, not without precedent of course, if we think of sets of buttons for court dress centuries before: having a complete set to match was of benefit to the jewelers’ trade, for if one piece was lost, a whole new set had to be acquired at significantly more expense than would otherwise be required.

Sets including shirt collar studs are rarely found, because collar studs are never seen, being hidden by the collar and necktie, therefore, their matching or not does not matter much, and they were, after 1900, usually of a simple design that could go with most combinations of shirt studs, vest buttons, and cufflinks.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etiquette ... nd_at_Home
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emily_Post
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