Sydney, Australia (an unusual request!)

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

BirdofSydney
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Wed Jul 27, 2005 12:21 am

Gentlemen,

It may seem counterintuitive that, hailing from Sydney as I do, I am quite unfamiliar with the shopping there. The fact is that I've lived in Queensland (another state of Australia, the location of the popular Gold Coast), since such time that I've had the funds and the inclination to dress well.

As such, I'm pretty much in the dark as to where is worth shopping. I am familiar with suit- and shirtmakers J.H. Cutler and Shane Rochefort - both are pretty well known. And, a Lounger informed me in another thread of a good place for shaving needs, which I will certainly visit.

Can anyone who's been there familiarise me with noteworthy suppliers of either bespoke shirts and soforth, or worthwhile purveyors of ready-to-wear? I would be most grateful. Of course, when I return, I shall post detailed observations on any other good locations I run across.

Kind regards,

Eden
BenedictSpinola
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Wed Jul 27, 2005 3:04 pm

Last time I was in Sydney there was a shop with a fake English-sounding name (Baubridge & Key, I think) in Skygarden. They were selling Thurston braces under their own label and their shirts seemed to be better than most of those on offer elsewhere - you should at least have a look.

Skin Deep on Elizabeth St. do MTM suits from Holland & Sherry Cloth. A friend of mine has two suits from them which look rather smart - I haven't examined them in great detail, however.
BirdofSydney
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Tue Aug 02, 2005 1:58 am

I'm grateful for your advice Benedict. I visited both stores, unfortunately to no avail. It was the end of the season, so nowhere had a particularly full range.

Baubridge's shirts just weren't cut to my taste - the collars were too small, the sleeves too full, not enough shape in the body. I would dearly like some suspenders, but I think I'll try to have them made.

Skin Deep did, indeed, have H&S cloth on offer. Though, looking at their suits' quality, I was not moved. I understand they've declined over recent years (my parents tell me they shopped there several decades ago!). They had a couple of Dormueil shirts, that had been there for years by the look of it.

I can highly commend Shane Rochefort's shop in Elizabeth Street (and the delightful cafe next door). The owner was undoubtedly the most pleasant businessman and artisan who I've met in a very long time, and his product was top-notch. I am disappointed to say, I didn't purchase anything, as everything was in a palette too muted for my taste (drawing on a lot of Deco-era patterns). Far from displaying irritation, Mr. Rochefort took my number, offering to call when a newer range is in, and even making arrangements to post something as small as a pocket square. I highly recommend perusing www.rochefort.com.au and note, in particular, the curious but thoroughly agreeable offer of lining MTM and bespoke suits with heavy patterned tie silk! When I'm in town for longer, I think I shall need one. I'm also highly amused that, on this tie-dominated site, shirts are listed under "accessories"!

J.H. Cutler, in O'Connell Street, was disappointingly closed when I went in on Saturday morning, and the Henry Buck's store with which they shared premises was a (somewhat shabby) shadow of its Melbourne namesake.

Given the concentration of wealth, I really don't know where Sydneysiders actually shop! Even the RTW was surprisingly sparse, though I might have bought something from Zegna if they'd had anything I liked that fit.

All in all, not what I expected! Then again, I don't suppose any of our foreign members are coming here for the shopping...

Kind regards,

Eden
BenedictSpinola
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Fri Aug 05, 2005 2:37 pm

Eden,

Hong Kong is a short flight away!
Mr JRM
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Thu Jan 25, 2007 7:59 am

...and Melbourne is even closer. I have shopped in Melbourne and Sydney and there is more choice of retailers in Melbourne.
Sammyo77
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Thu Mar 08, 2007 8:41 pm

Hello. I am new to the forum but I hope this topic is fresh enough that I might make a contribution. I live in London but have spent a large part of my life in Sydney and am actually in a friend's flat in Darlinghurst on a short holiday as I write this.

In addition to Cutler, Zink & Sons operate another of Sydney's best-established bespoke tailors. I am in the process of having two bespoke suits made there (a DB grey POW check with light mauve line and a 3-piece SB navy with thinly-spaced royal blue stripes). I will let you know how it goes. I am a little apprehensive but, unlike shirts and ties, bespoke suits are pretty reasonably priced here (the two will come in at around AUD6,000) so I thought it worth a shot.

I probably should have asked at Cutler as well to be fair. Perhaps next trip.

Anthony Squires is well known. I have one RTW suit that I picked up there a few years ago. It has a strange felt-like stiffness in the cloth which is a little unusual but I have grown quite fond of it.

There is also a tailor who I have been unable to track down this trip who used to make suits for Laurie Brereton. My memory suggests that he was a Hungarian in Edgecliff though I may be mistaken.

Rochefort suits, as you say, have a nice lining but the cut does little for me.

I visited another bespoke tailor on William Street, a jewel of a street off Oxford Street, Paddington. His name is Matthew Lawrence. He talked the talk (an apprenticeship at a now-closed London ("off-Jermyn"!) tailor. But the suit that he was wearing was pretty unpleasant (including a keyhole lapel buttonhole) so I gave it a miss. He also seemed more concerned with running a promotional photo shoot than discussing his suits.

For RTW shirts, Henry Bucks should have something, Abelard at David Jones is ok and Herringbone have some interesting choices at times. There is a shop called Edward Stripe in Paddington which is pretty much a direct rip-off of Pink. I bought three shirts there once and though the cotton was quite nice, the cut of the shirts is horrible, especially for a slimmer man.

I have never bought bespoke shirts so can't comment. My father bought some at Baubridge and Kay when he lived in Sydney. I think he thought they were ok though I don't think he made a repeat order.

I think that if I were to buy shirts to order, I might be tempted to talk to Shane Rochefort. It's not that I think he has any great skill as a shirtmaker but he is so attentive that I would have faith in his willingness to give it his best shot.

As for his ties, they are lovely. Pricey but very nice. I picked up three on Wednesday: two 6-folds and one 4-fold. Exquisite.

I will try to come back to this thread with anything else I think of.
Sammyo77
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Fri Mar 09, 2007 3:33 am

A bit more research today!

The Hungarian tailor has now retired unfortunately.

As for bespoke shirts, Zink are made locally but Cutler (who used to use the same shirtmaker as Zink before having a falling out) now outsources from South-East Asia apparently.

Zink will do even a single shirt (no need to order six) if you want to get a taste. It will cost you around AUD270 (as a starting price). It is completely tailored to your measurements, not just a neck and sleeve job like some in Sydney. I'm going to give shirts a miss this trip but do let me know how you get on if you give them a try.
Guest

Fri Mar 09, 2007 3:42 am

l'd be very wary of getting a suit made by John Cutler. The results i've seen on clients haven't been good. He is basically a designer....other people make his clothes. He is not highly regarded by people in the know (well not as much as his families past tailoring reputation). l haven't used John Cutler.

But, if you have deep pockets and want a big aussie name, go for Cutler.
Sammyo77
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Fri Mar 09, 2007 3:46 am

Hi Santoniman. What lovely weather it is!

Thanks for the information on Cutler, especially given his prices which are up there with the best on Savile Row.

Are there any Sydney tailors about whom you have better things to say?
Guest

Fri Mar 09, 2007 3:56 am

Sammyo77 wrote:
Are there any Sydney tailors about whom you have better things to say?

Hi Sammyo77!

Don't know enough about the other Sydney tailors to be able to make comment.

Lovely weather here too.
Mr JRM
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Fri Mar 09, 2007 9:35 am

I have heard someone rave about an Italian heritage tailor in Leichardt.

In general, we have more good Italian heritage tailors around than good English heritage tailors here in Asutralia. John Cutler in Sydney and Terry Gasson in Adelaide are the exception that I know of. I can't comment re work since never used however both have H.Lesser books which is reasonable guide. However, not sure if outsourced etc.

You could visit Melbourne and see the tailors here (first hand, I have experience with a ripper of a tailor in Melbourne, Adriano Carbone - see www.adriano.com.au - see thread re Melbourne). This tailor is skilled - he seems to me to be a real natural talent and flexible with style (as tailors here have to be since the market is not suited to a specialist - the market is small). The work is not outsourced and hence is to a consistent standard (which is a winner if order over and over and over again. eg. like me).
Sator
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Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:20 pm

John Cutler is a cutter with Savile Row training. I have seen him draft and cut before my eyes. It is untrue he is merely a 'designer'. His father was a tailor as was his grandfather.

That said, I prefer Adamo Marone in Leichardt. His work is really superb and his prices far more reasonable. I just had a fitting with him today. He is doing Neapolitan shoulders on my next coat. I cannot recommend Adamo strongly enough.

Shop 2/39 Norton Street
Leichhardt, NSW, 2040
Telephone: 02 9569 6419

For shirts there is an easy answer: Charles Nakhle in Parramatta. He cut the shirts himself and all work is done on the premises. In terms of quality almost nobody in Australia can beat him - either for the quality of the work or for price. In fact, you get a better shirt than you get from others charging almost twice the price.

(02) 9633 4696

69 Phillip St Parramatta 2150

Remember too that the reason for the higher prices from those tailors in the CBD is because there are more walk in customers off the street there and they can afford to hand on the higher overhead costs (eg rent) to customers.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum
Last edited by Sator on Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sator
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Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:23 pm

Here is a little SBS TV interview with Adamo Marone:

http://www.sbs.com.au/fashionista/index.html?id=826

And yes, Adamo does stock H Lesser books as well as Harrisons.

I would stay in Sydney rather than fly to Melbourne if I were you.


There is also another tailor in Double Bay whose name escapes me. His prices are also a bit steeper (Double Pay!)

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum
Last edited by Sator on Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
bluscuro
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Fri Mar 09, 2007 11:29 pm

As the saying goes , "you're only as good as your last suit".

The tailor in Double Bay is - Senor Vittorio Alacqua .

Senor Alacqua has made for some of Australia's most prominent businessmen including the late K.Packer.

bluscuro
aus_md
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Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:50 am

Santoni Man wrote:l'd be very wary of getting a suit made by John Cutler. The results i've seen on clients haven't been good. He is basically a designer....other people make his clothes. He is not highly regarded by people in the know (well not as much as his families past tailoring reputation). l haven't used John Cutler.

But, if you have deep pockets and want a big aussie name, go for Cutler.
I am unable to let this post pass without comment. Apart from your egregious error of fact, that John is a designer rather than tailor, you are mistaken about the regard in which his work is held. I am not sure what constitutes "people in the know" but his clients include some of the best dressed men in the country. I have had the opportunity to see the work of most Australian bespoke tailors and I have seen none that matches Cutler's in fit or detail. Certainly my own suits have drawn favorible comment in Savile Row, and at Charvet.


John's additional strengths are his design flair and his exhaustive knowledge of fabrics. As an example of the latter, a poster on this forum sought a source for silk velvet for a smoking jacket. I imagine that the repository of knowledge in this forum is as comprehensive as any other available to us, yet a source was not nominated. I also have decided to have a (pure) silk velvet jacket made. John has located a source, (woven on 18th c. looms in Italy) and has a suit-length in his store.
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