Choosing a tailor

[clothesbunny]

Dear all--

I wish to take advantage of the vast experience on this forum as I embark on my first expedition into the world of bespoke clothing. I intend to commission a few suits in the near future from a bespoke tailor in New York.

I have done a bit of research and have read extensively in this forum and others like it, and I have assembled a list of usual suspects and have even narrowed the list down to a few that seem, by reputation to be most appropriate for me. But I am not sure how to narrow my final two or three down to one. Obviously I would like to get a sense for myself of what each tailor's house style is, how it looks on me, and whether the tailor and I will mesh well as people.

So I guess I'm asking, what's my next step?

[bry2000]

It's simple. Make appointments with the short listed candidates and see what they offer. have them describe their style and have them show you examples of their work. It is likely they may have a work in process that approximates your size. Have them slip the coat on you and you can see if the silhouette suits you. spend 45 minutes talking to the candidates and see if your personalities click. Do you find that they listen to you? are they arrogant? Are they intimidating? will they answer even your most basic questions? When you find the right guy, you will know. If something does not feel right, pass and move onto the next. Remember, you get what you pay for.

[Guest]

For your FIRST bespoke suit, I would stick with the people who have been doing what they do, well and for a long, long time. In NYC, that would be Logsdail, Nicolosi, Corvato, or Fiorviranti. Were I venturing out for the first time (as I did last year), I would want to see "how it is done right" and then I could be adventurous (as I am being now, trying a Romanian tailor while I am in Bucharest). In terms of price, Corvato and Nicolosi are going to be the cheapest of those. Remember, the best tailors are not magicians. They are reliable and consistant, maybe a little boring even. They are flexible but not too flexible. In the Northeast, they all know one another and are friends. I would ask one of those names what other tailors they would recommend, if you want to know from whom you should pick.

Alternatively (and this is an adventure I would try were I in NYC), I would go to Tip Top or Beckensteins and pick out a fabric and bring it to Ercole in Brooklyn. The two complaints I heard about Ercole (which is reportedly about 1500 dollars cheaper than the big names in Manhattan) were that they "are not true custom made" though I am not sure what this means exactly, and that the tailor there favors overbuilt shoulders so you have to make clear you do not want much padding there if you do not like that.

[Leonard Logsdail]

Bry2000 has hit it on the nose. Make appointments with the tailors on your short list. The styles of different tailors can differ considerably with some being more flexible than oters. More than that, though, is the personality. Remember, this should be a lasting association if tailor and client hit it off. So just as important as quality and fit in the suit is quality and fit of the person.

[clothesbunny]

Thanks, everyone! I had planned on meeting a few tailors as my next step, but I didn't know if I should just stop by or make an appointment. I know you need an appointment to actually order the suits, but that's not yet what I was contemplating. And I guess the other big question was, are there any specific questions other than "describe your house style" that I must be sure to ask? Any particular telltale signs, as it were, of a good or bad tailor I should keep my eyes peeled and ears open for?

[Leonard Logsdail]

Always make an appointment. No point in turning up and finding the tailor will be with a client for some time or is out on an appointment. Likewise, if he' s free when you walk in, but has an appointment 5 minutes after you have arrived you might be disappointed. Although you will get to see him in action, which can be quite telling.

[JRS]

I was just in your position. I started by reading everything on this forum and englishcut.com. You want to know as much about the actual process of making a good bespoke suit as possible.

I've gone back to my tailor multiple times (thankfully the cutting hasn't begun yet) to ask questions that I only thought to ask after reading posts in this forum, and articles on Thomas' site. For example, I knew about the importance of buying a canvassed suit, but I wouldn't have thought to specify high armholes and insist that the holes not be cut too big had I not read this forum. Don't go in to it assuming that your tailor will do everything right for you. I believe that the more involved you get in the process, the more happy you will be with the end result. Hopefully, it will work out that way for me.

It's also worth mentioning that NYC isn't too far from Montreal, which is where I'm located. I'd be willing to bet that you could get significantly better prices here. I know for a fact taht my tailor has done over a dozen suits for a guy in NY that used to be buy primarily Brioni MTM. I hesitate to give a full recommendation before the jacket is done and I've verified that it fits me well, but I have seen completed work and it's very nice indeed.

I'm going to post pictures for analysis when the jacket i've ordered has been completed.

[Guest]

ClothesBunny,

Along the same lines I'd offer this:
A few common mistakes which are easy to avoid but far too common IMHO

1. Asking a tailor to make you another tailor's house style.
Not that they can't, but if you want A&S then visit A&S. Especially on a first suit with a tailor you (and the tailor) will likely have a much easier time doing his style. Good tailors can make anything but like any other artisan they tend to take pride in a certain signature style and tend to do that style best. You do your best work on things you enjoy and are familiar with - right?

2. Humility is a good thing.
One of the smartest things a person can say is "I have no idea what you are talking about, please show me!". I tend to phrase it "I'm dumb, use small words" but you get the idea.... it generally earns me a chuckle and a long, relaxed explanation.

3. A bespoke tailor is an artisan who (if he's any good!) is likely to be immensely proud of his work. I don't say that to suggest any arrogance on the tailor's part - if he does not believe himself to be terrific at what he does he should be cutting meat, not suits. What I mean is - a bespoke tailor who has mastered his craft is like anyone else and will appreciate a little respect for his expertise. Listen to what he says and let him help you.

4. Start slow! The first order is a bit of a trial for you both - see how you work together and see if you are satisfied with the result before placing the next order.

Most of all, be sure to have fun. The process should be and can be a LOT of fun so don't stress over it. Work with your tailor, learn, ask questions, ask for explanations, learn and enjoy it.

Then get a second job - bespoke is an expensive addiction but it won't kill you, doesn't make you fat and isn't illegal so you could do far worse.

Best of luck in your endeavor!