Savile Row MTM? - LL Clothing Club question

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Degendorff
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Sat Feb 03, 2007 5:50 pm

Dear gentlemen!

Since I delved into "bespoke tailoring" a while ago, my wardrobe discomfits me more and more, because it does not represent me. This difficulty could be solved by frequenting the tailor of my choice. But what should one do, if bespoke is beyond ones means? Should one go the made-to-measure-route? One could choose the fabric, maybe the style and some details like linings and pockets. But my experiences with MTM aren't that good (at least up to 500/600 EUR) in terms of quality (fused, bad fit...).

Therefore I wanted to ask the question, where does good MTM begin? While I was searching for "house styles" of different savile row tailors I found some nice-sounding and affordable MTM offers, assumed that the quality is reasonable.

Benson & Clegg MTM starting at 610 GBP/~930 EUR: http://www.bensonandclegg.com/ready.html

Gieves & Hawkes MTM starting at 695 GBP/~1050 EUR: http://www.gievesandhawkes.com/cgi-bin/ ... 98&cartid=

Do they offer good MTM? Do they do mtm with my own fabrics? Do you know other good MTM tailors outside London, maybe in Germany or Austria in this price range? However big european cities would not be problematic.

I hope, I am not too impolite, if I ask another question - concerning the LL clothing club. I am fascinated of the idea of the LL clothing club and adore the fabrics whether they are intended or already realized. Are all of these fabrics limited in quantity as well as restricted for special members?


Sincerely yours

Degendorff
sartorius
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Sat Feb 03, 2007 7:50 pm

In my view MTM is something of a false economy - you tend to go for it hoping that it will come close to the full bespoke product, but the fact is, it never does and you're liable to be disappointed.

my advice would be to buy half a dozen decent off the peg suits (there are actually some really good value options out there if you're prepared to shop around, particularly at sales time), and save your cash for one or two high -bespoke articles which are versatile enough to be matched with the rest of your wardrobe.

I jumped into full bespoke last year after one or two forays into MTM, and I will never go back to down the MTM route.
sartorius
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Sat Feb 03, 2007 7:52 pm

sorry, meant to say "one or two high-end bespoke articles which are versatile enough to be matched with the rest of your wardrobe"...
Degendorff
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Tue Feb 06, 2007 1:20 am

Thank you very much for your answer, sartorius.
For sure there is no comparison between mtm and bespoke, but if one cannot afford bespoke, but wants to choose the fabrics and style, mtm seems the only way to go.

That's why I asked, if anybody of you might be able to tell me whether the mtm offers I referred to are of a good quality or not.

Yesterday I was told that Jungmann & Neffe in Vienna offer bespoke tailoring (but maybe it's mtm only) with several fittings (tailored in Pressburg, Slovakia) for about 500 EUR + fabric. Does anybody have any experiences with Jungmann & Neffe? It is apparent that it won't be comparable with Savile Row, Knize or Italian tailors, but maybe it could be comparable with Hong Kong Tailors?

Concerning the LL Clothing Club question:

I would really appreciate an answer, because it's dimmish, if a non-member has the possibility to buy those garments.

Sincerely yours

Degendorff
Richard3
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Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:02 am

Yesterday I was told that Jungmann & Neffe in Vienna offer bespoke tailoring (but maybe it's mtm only) with several fittings (tailored in Pressburg, Slovakia) for about 500 EUR + fabric.

As I have told you yesterday the tailor a Jungmann does not do MTM as he creates an exclusive pattern for you. I have seen garments in "baste fitting" stage so there is no question that we speak of the real deal. Before I decided to give the tailor at Jungmann a try I intended to use Netousek who is said to be a very good Viennese tailor but charges EUR 2.000,-- for a 2-piece suit (without fabric).
Now, if you compare the different price niveaus between Austria and Slowakia it might not be unrealistic that you get a comparable quality for a fourth of the price. Another point is that the CEO of Jungmann recommended me their tailor which - at least for me - says somthing as in Vienna many people still have their clothes custom made and so the clientele is very demanding.
Degendorff
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Tue Feb 06, 2007 1:07 pm

Ah, hello Richard,

Comparing the price niveaus I dare you are right. I'll give Jungmann a try. Thank you very much indeed!
uppercase
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Tue Feb 06, 2007 5:28 pm

There's nothing at all wrong with MTM.

At Pounds 695 at Gieves & Hawkes, I would be really tempted to give them a try.

I have some of their RTW suits, which I really enjoy and get alot of use from, but as I recall they were Pounds 995- a few years back. Check on where they make their MTM....

They make a very nice English silhouette and at 695- you shouldn't be disappointed. Give their RTW a try also; you may find something there that you really like.

Ofcourse, if you don't live in London, factor in your cost to go there.

But really, Gieves sounds very interesting.

No experience with Benson....
Algernon
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Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:15 pm

For your information: the same people who do the MTM for Hackett do the MTM for Gieves & Hawkes. I have a friend who has had quite a few suits made that way, and they seem to be pretty good. The fit, while not on a bespoke level, is far better than RTW, and the quality of materials and construction is very sound.

Bear in mind that most of the fabric books they keep will cost more like £795 for a two-piece single-breasted suit.

Ede & Ravenscroft also do MTM (which they call 'personal tailoring') for £695 and have some nice fabrics in that price range. I glanced at them a while ago and they have a mid-grey herringbone in 10/11 oz which might look very appealing. Especially in DB.

Hope this is of some use.
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