How high is high enough?

[risto]

As I'm working with my tailor in Vienna on a new lovely summer suit (2-button, Holland&Sherry fresco in blue, with subtle lightt blue and light green pinstripes), it's time for us to decide how high of a button stance, breast pocket and gorge I should have. While I do like my tailor's sense of proportion and am happy with his suggestions thus far, I was wondering if there was a rule of thumb for this - how high is high enough?

[Guest]

Well, this has been debated before, and there are issues of personal preference as adapted to anyone phisique.

I'd like for example an high stance and waist, but this depends on anyone shape; there is a point above which high is becaming too high. As Mr. Alden would say, "balance" is everything.

In my case I have may waist point at about 4cm above my navel, and the middle button of a 3B is located there, or a little bit above for a 2B. I found my waist point both making a lot fo attempts, and feeling for my comfort. One good rule is that who find your waist point just under your ribs, and there is where I located it.

Giona Granata.

[manton]

Keep in mind, too, that this is not something that can be designed in at the last minute. The waist button should have some relationship to the waist of the coat -- they should share the same latitude, in my opinion. So this is somthing you really need to decide earlier and have designed into your pattern from the beginning.

[Matt Deckard]

It's all a matter of balance. Too high and you look short, too low and you have no waist.

[risto]

I appreciate the comments and perhaps should have worded my post a bit differently - while the general details were indeed decided at the time of commissioning and taking of the measurements, we had an opportunity to make slight adjustments to the final button, breast pocket and gorge positions during the first fitting. So we did - lift everything just slightly. And afterwards, I merely started wondering when high is just too high.

It appears that overall balance appears to be the key. But finding that overall and general rules of balance, adapting them for my body style and posture, whilst taking into account my individual preferences, is getting more and more interesting as I dabble with bespoke clothing. The more I learn, the less I realise I know. Thank god for good (old?) professional tailors. I'm having so much fun with this epicurean process.