Cutting Trousers

[Hesketh]

I would be interested if someone (perhaps Leonard or Tom) could explain how trousers would be cut to allow for large calves. Are they just cut wide below the knee or is there a cutting technique to allow for it.

I have the problem that my calves always pull the trousers backward, even when they are quite wide, so the hem sits quite high on the shoe and gives a much larger break than I would really like (these are not bespoke trousers obviously).

Thanks

Rob

[Leonard Logsdail]

Tom, For average calves we do put a "bulge" on the underside (back panel) of the trousers at calf level. This creates extra length that is very smoothly eased in and does create, with proper pressing, extra room in the calf area. However, this does not always work if the client has calves like Popeye.

What happens is that the calf creates a shortness, or tightness, from the waist at the front to the calf. If you look at yourself in the mirror i am sure you will see diagonal creases forming along these lines. If you push your trousers down at the front and pull them up at the back you will find the creases ease. This, occasionally, is what the cutter has to create when cutting the paper pattern in order to remove these creases for this body type.

Leonard

[Hesketh]

Thanks Len, so well described even I could understand it.

Rob