Brioni--what's the fuss?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

JamesT1
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Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:41 am

yachtie wrote:. According to her , it's even worse with women's clothing than it is with men's RTW.
I've been studying fashion design at college (with an emphasis on women's clothing) and can absolutely agree.
Mr JRM
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Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:18 am

what's the big fuss? just that, a big fuss! we call it marketing. with enough of it, you can sell ice to the eskimos.
flannel
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Tue Dec 12, 2006 1:59 pm

As an Italian, I have ready access (for instance in many of Milan's better shops) to all the hallowed brands (Brioni, Kiton, Borrelli, Isaia).

The only one I have some degree of love for is Isaia, whose Enrico shape is a tapered silhouette that seems to fit me well.

Whenever I try on a Kiton or a Brioni, I feel as if I were wearing a vat (not enough taper). The sciancratura of the Isaia is very pleasing to me (fortunately, given the respective pricetags).

A friend and colleague buys Brioni MTM from Bardelli and looks extremely well suited in it (he'd better - at that price one can easily get real, top-line bespoke).

Agree with everyone else on the overmarketing of the Brioni and Kiton brands. Sort of runs counter to all we cherish, doesn't it?
zjpj
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Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:32 pm

It didn't fit you well? How is that any reflection of the brand? It's a RTW jacket, what do you expect? They use a standard set of measurements. Just because they don't fit your body as well as other RTW patterns do, there is no reason to fault the brand and say you don't see what the big deal is - that's ridiculous.

I don't understand paying bespoke prices for RTW either, for precisely the reason that you indicate - it's just not going to fit as well. But that's true of any RTW label. Brioni is no less of a maker because their RTW pattern doesn't fit your body as well as Isaia :idea:
flannel
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Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:40 pm

zjpj wrote:It didn't fit you well? How is that any reflection of the brand? It's a RTW jacket, what do you expect? They use a standard set of measurements. Just because they don't fit your body as well as other RTW patterns do, there is no reason to fault the brand and say you don't see what the big deal is - that's ridiculous.

I don't understand paying bespoke prices for RTW either, for precisely the reason that you indicate - it's just not going to fit as well. But that's true of any RTW label. Brioni is no less of a maker because their RTW pattern doesn't fit your body as well as Isaia :idea:
In Italy one can easily purchase RTW Isaia for EUR 1.200. For that money, Brioni, Kiton and bespoke are out of reach. Fortunately, Isaia fits me, so it is a reasonable alternative to my bespokes, when and if the fancy strikes me.

I have a hard time justifying the outlay of the same amount one would spend on bespoke for Brioni.

The fit of their garments to my body is otherwise not germane to the quality of their production, as you and your emoticon so kindly, and astutely, notice.
Guest

Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:54 pm

Do you live in Italy? At that price level there are hundreds of bespoke makers.
flannel
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Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:20 pm

Jona wrote:Do you live in Italy? At that price level there are hundreds of bespoke makers.
Jona, I do.

I would welcome a recommendation for Milan/Florence/Rome within that price range.
I have my own tailor, but he is somewhat more expensive and very, very unreliable.
kirsch
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Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:00 pm

It didn't fit you well? How is that any reflection of the brand? It's a RTW jacket, what do you expect? They use a standard set of measurements. Just because they don't fit your body as well as other RTW patterns do, there is no reason to fault the brand and say you don't see what the big deal is - that's ridiculous.

It surely did not fit me well. Does that mean much? Well, no, not if it's just me. But several people have now stated that it did not fit them well either. And that's why I started this topic--to see if I was alone... "hey what's the big fuss?" I thought maybe someone could set me straight! But, as it turned out, some folks agreed.

Several others have stated that it is so popular because of marketing---and not because of its amazing fit.

I know it's RTW. For that price I was wondering what set it apart. Maybe fabric, craftsmanship, etc...but not style.

You say "they use a standard set of measurements"---whose? That of Santa Claus? Where's the form-fitting?

In conclusion, asking about the "big fuss" was not "ridiculous." Actually, it was quite informative. Thanks to all who replied.

As Alden says, "All questions are good questions."
Chris Rimby
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Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:26 pm

kirsch wrote:
It didn't fit you well? How is that any reflection of the brand? It's a RTW jacket, what do you expect? They use a standard set of measurements. Just because they don't fit your body as well as other RTW patterns do, there is no reason to fault the brand and say you don't see what the big deal is - that's ridiculous.

It surely did not fit me well. Does that mean much? Well, no, not if it's just me. But several people have now stated that it did not fit them well either. And that's why I started this topic--to see if I was alone... "hey what's the big fuss?" I thought maybe someone could set me straight! But, as it turned out, some folks agreed.

Several others have stated that it is so popular because of marketing---and not because of its amazing fit.

I know it's RTW. For that price I was wondering what set it apart. Maybe fabric, craftsmanship, etc...but not style.

You say "they use a standard set of measurements"---whose? That of Santa Claus? Where's the form-fitting?

In conclusion, asking about the "big fuss" was not "ridiculous." Actually, it was quite informative. Thanks to all who replied.

As Alden says, "All questions are good questions."
You're new here and trying to figure out how all this works. You're right...it wasn't ridiculous.
Guest

Tue Dec 12, 2006 7:44 pm

I dont know about Florence and Rome, but in Milan avarage price for bespoke is 1200-1500.

Incidentally, I live in Milan, but i go to verona.
Aristide
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Wed Dec 13, 2006 3:06 pm

Jona wrote:I dont know about Florence and Rome, but in Milan avarage price for bespoke is 1200-1500.

Incidentally, I live in Milan, but i go to verona.
I assume you are referring to Euros, not Pounds.
Richard3
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Wed Dec 13, 2006 4:00 pm

I dont know about Florence and Rome, but in Milan avarage price for bespoke is 1200-1500.
With or without cloth?
lancepryor
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Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:15 pm

I guess I shall be a bit of an iconoclast here, in that I like Brioni and don't find it ridiculous when taken in the right context. Brioni fits me very well (their standard 40R), and I like the way they feel on my body -- very light on the shoulders, yet well fitting. Of course, Brioni have a particular style, which includes a very clean chest as opposed to the drape style beloved by many.

Is Brioni overpriced? Again, it depends on context. Certainly, when you buy a Brioni at full price, you are paying for both alot of advertsing and the retailer's mark-up, neither of which you pay for when going bespoke. That being said, the buyer: 1. Can see what he is getting and how well it fits; 2. Gets immediate gratification; 3. Gets a well-made garment; and 4. Doesn't have to invest lots of time in searching out a quality tailor and going through measuring, fittings, etc. Finally, in many parts of the world, including most of the USA, finding a quality bespoke tailor is difficult if not impossible. So, for many people in many locations, Brioni is a decent choice -- pricey, yes, worth it? Depends.

I have never, and would never, pay full retail for a Brioni, but I wouldn't necessarily scoff at those who do.

One final note: Brioni seems to have a very large number of jacket models/styles/cuts, so just because one doesn't fit would not seem to mean that none of their models would fit.
Guest

Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:19 pm

The price indicated is in euro, of course, included of fabric.

Yes, I agree that a well made RTW suit is for a quick and easy reward. But that is not what we are searching for, is it?
Marabunta
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Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:56 pm

I'm fifty-one years old. I've never found a Brioni or Kiton jacket, that I've wanted to own. I don't care for Borelli, either. Maybe it's because I'm only five foot seven . . . for me, Armani is best. Depends on one's needs, one's 'eye,' one's body, one's desires and placements of importance. I have to feel 'good' in my jacket. Kiton feels insubstantial, to me. I know . . . perhaps that's how it's supposed, to feel. But, I don't care for it. Brioni suits, are too binding at the shoulders, too loose at the waist. More than that, I don't care for the designs, either at Brioni or Kiton. To my eye, they're unrefined. But, at other style fora that I've visited . . . Armani is derided, as a matter of course. Personally, I think it's best to find just what is best for you, and to stick to it. What's 'new' or being marketed as desirable, doesn't matter to me.
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